your motor is not getting too hot if you can keep your finger on there five seconds. Regardless, get yourself a highly calibrated infrared temp gun and let your finger take a break lol

I am telling you....my finger is pretty good :sweat:

with that said I have been using a finger to check motor temps for 25 years of flying high performance e-powered RC planes and I have yet to demag a motor from heat.

Cheers,
Jim

That's probably because you're not even getting close to 160f using your finger as a temp guage lol. Which is good. I like to be on the safe side too.

I think that is probably about right, I know I am fairly comfortable at 130-140*, I am betting I am right around 150* give or take a couple. In the past I have used the 10 second rule and that has worked for me.

Cheers,
Jim

lol well at least I'll feel comfortable buying used electronics from you. You could probably even gear your motor higher for more top speed if you wanted before temps started to be an issue ;)

It takes a LOT more than 160F to demagnetize a magnet, especially a neodymium magnet. The more immediate danger from heat in the 200F range (which is about how hot the core of the motor is when the surface is 160F) is softening of the epoxy that secures the armature/stator coils.

That's 160 external temp.

The internal temp when your reach 160 externally is closer to 200.

Agreed, -i've ruined a few ...they were around 230 ish when they stopped working. I was learning about gearing when I did it ...fortunately was taking temp measurements frequently so I knew what the temp was when it probably went.

I am laughing about all this temp checking w/ the finger!!! ...what the heck.
I think if your bashing around in the street the finger is probably okay. But if your racing every 5-10 degrees difference can mean more speed via motor timing, gearing,etc .. I race my motor around 165ish ...they run great. I'd not know that temp w/ my finger though. 100 could feel like 135 or even 165 ...

...

Okay, I do have a quick question.

My TT02 is a bit loose in the rear. Camber and tires are good ...what i am curious about is the what your all using in the front and rear diff's? Thick vs thin oil?

I know w/ a belt driven TC you usually run it tight or a spool up front and thinner oil in rear to get good grip. Does the same ring true for a shaft driven car?

Well I run a spool up front on both of my tb03's and light oil in the rear hear diffs and I had a pretty consistent practice session with it. The rear end is still a bit tail happy when its pushed hard but I kind of prefer a little oversteer. I feel it's easier to correct during the turn.

Thanks EbbTide.
So sounds like similar setup to a belt driven TC then.

:)

Raman, curious how you got the 911 GT3 to fit on the Type S.

That body is for short wheel base cars and the Type S is long wheel base. Would love to use that body if you can share your tips for fitting it.

After doing it for so many years you would be surprised how accurate a finger can be.

Cheers,
Jim

Has anyone tried the Low Friction SUS balls for the front arms? Last night I put two packs through the TT02 and I had very inconsistent steering, felt like the servo was not centering . I took a look at it this morning and found that there was a lot of friction in the steering which I found out was being caused from me tightening up the fasteners that go through the balls and into the hubs....I am sure this happened when I was trying to reduce slop in the front arms. I loosened them up a 1/4 turn and all is good now but wondering if the low friction version of the balls help at all. I did actually order them as I needed to get wheels and tires for the new body so I should have some feedback in the next week or so.

Cheers,
Jim

Hello All,
I just got around to replacing the plastic pillow balls in the front of my TT02 with the low friction metal balls. I have to say I was pretty surprised by the amount of scoring on the plastic balls after 10-12 full packs (3ish hours of use). I have yet to drive it, and I am guessing I will not feel any difference, but the metal balls are a heck of a lot smoother then the plastic ones when you spin them by hand in the arms. You can also tighten them a but more before you start to feel resistance. Time will tell how the do in the long run but right off the bat I am thinking they are worth the $5 and 10 minutes to install.

Cheers,
Jim