Yes within 30 seconds of adding the water to the brushes they wore in rather quickly, hence the alternating between water and alcohol.
Definitely a benefit to doing it but what I have read leads me to believe most who attempt it don't do it properly and get bad results.
But with it used widely in the RC scene many years ago says it did something lol.

spur is 66 48p

From what I have read, the largest 48P pinion gear you can use before it rubs on the inside of the stock gear cover is a 53T pinion.

I prefer 64P gears and my gearing is 75/51 that gives an FDR of 3.82 and post #3008 shows that I had to mod the stock gear cover to make clearance for the pinion. I later found a local guy who printed me a new cover that I have since installed.

Can I use universals in the rear of the car with the oil gear diff?

The main purpose of submerging a motor during a wet break-in is to subject the motor to significant drag, so the motor will have to work extremely hard for an extended period of time. The significant drag limits the motor's speed, which reduces the magnetic flux inside the can. The reduced magnetic flux is unable to generate as much inductive resistance in the armature coils as it normally would if the motor were spinning freely. The lower resistance allows the battery to push more amperage through the motor, and because that amperage is being pushed through a very tiny contact area between the brand-new brushes and the commutator, the contacting surfaces of the brushes get extremely hot and start to disintegrate. This accelerates the break-in process by an order of magnitude -- but it can also destroy soft brushes in a matter of seconds, as I and many other people have discovered over the years. A wet break-in is only useful (or safe) for motors with extremely hard brushes that would take an extremely long time to break-in without the continuous drag of running underwater. For brushed motors with softer brushes, a few full-throttle accelerations will put enough load on the motor to break-in the brushes, and then the commutator can be cleaned with electronics cleaner spray.

Regarding brush debris: Submerging the motor in water allows brush debris to be washed away instantly by the churning water inside the motor, whereas applying a few drops of water directly to the brushes just causes the debris to form a grinding paste that stays on the brushes. That's why the brushes broke-in so quickly for you. If it works, it works, but there's a significant risk of the brushes being damaged by so much abrasive material in such a small area.

(source for magnetic flux explanation: John Rob Holmes of Holmes Hobbies LLC)

Here's my 2nd run. Found a nice dusty parking lot. She feels quicker here than at home. Also, forgive the crash. Distracted and driving with one hand. Don't drive distracted.

Still the same setup. 23-turn motor, stock ESC, 20t pinion, 68t spur.

Picked up a TT02r kit and a complete Yeah Racing aluminum kit and built a driveway monster.
Hobbywing Max10 esc and 4000kv brushless.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...631fbb5a8.jpeg

Yeah Racing aluminum kit.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...11b50eb98.jpeg

All is correct, However as soon as the grinding paste accumulated it was washed away with 99% Isopropanol Alcohol to prevent that from happening. I broke the brushes in in about 2 minutes. 90% of the brushes were left with a smooth finish on both the brushes and comm. And this is the smoothest most crisp brushed motor I think I have ever ran.

The one I wore in by a few full throttle runs destroyed the comm. It was toast even after cleaning it off. Chunks of brush missing and comm scored to hell.

I'm extremely familiar with motors and electronics, I used to repair Telecom Infrastructure Boards from across the US and most of the world. The company I worked for also had a DJI drone repair department.

I can swap motors out and compare the two back to back in the same TT02. Whenever I get around to it lol.

Where can I buy this part set? I want to replace the arms with Type S or SR kind. Or where can I find a Type S kit with reasonable price?

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...5bc0f77b8b.jpg

I've seen the Type SR (tuned up Type S) offered for 166€ in Germany (a bargain, considering that the normal Type S costs 150€). Plus about 20-40€ outside EU shipping shipping though...

Outdrive Upgrades
 

I'm about to build my 2nd tt-02r, and I'm wondering if cv joints/harder cups, etc. are available. Can someone tell me what the "hot" setup is and a source?

Many thanks

Hi guys,

Just have a quick question. Are the YeahRacing shocks 50mm the correct ones for the TT02? They also have 55mm but I am not sure which one is the right one.

Thank you,

The Tamiya universal option (53792) are going to be the nicest, but they are costlier and it appears mostly out-of-stock, in the US at least. The Yeah Racing universals are decent, available, and not quite as costly. The part number is YEA-TT02-015. You'll need to use their drive cups as well for the diff, which I think is YEA-TATT-017, but I would double check.

Yes, the 50mm are the ones to go with for TT02. I would recommend using the Tamiya o-rings. You'll likely have to sand down the plastic shaft guide a bit to keep it from binding.

You can find most of these parts directly at TamiyaUSA.com. Here is a link...
https://www.tamiyausa.com/search/?q=54634

Here are specific parts numbers and links...
54632 - carbon front damper stay (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...-stay-front-3/)
54633 - carbon rear damper stay (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...per-stay-rear/)
54634 - type s suspension mount set (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...sus-mount-set/)
54636 - type s front mount (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...eel-sus-mount/)
54637 - type s rear mount (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...l-sus-mount-2/)
54638 - rebound stopper (for droop) - https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...bound-stopper/

Stock parts for the TT-02 Type S kit #58600 that are Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (FRP) (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-4...s-chassis-kit/)
​​​​​​4305646 - front damper stay (for kit #58600) - https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/7-dig...er-stay-58600/
4305647 - rear damper stay (for kit #58600) - https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/7-dig...er-stay-58600/

I am currently in the process of rebuilding/upgrading my TT-02D Type-S kit and I have been able to find most of the parts I needed through TamiyaUSA.com Amazon, ebay, or various online stores. Some parts can be difficult to find so also consider looking at aftermarket companies such as Yeah Racing that offer decent/affordable upgrade parts of the TT-02. Here are some links
https://www.yeahracing.com/rc-car-pa...de-hopup-parts
https://www.yeahracing.com/rc-car-pa...e-hop-up-parts
https://www.yeahracing.com/yeah-raci...t-s04-00106044

----------

If you can find/buy a TT-02 Type S kit, here are some links so you can compare the differences (note these kits are discontinued)
#58600 - TT-02 Type-S - https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-4...s-chassis-kit/
#47301 - TT-02D Type-S - https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-4...it/drift-spec/
#47439 - TT-02 Type-SR - https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-4...sis-kit/tt-02/

----------

If you are looking for some reviews and builds of Tamiya kits, check out THERCRACER.com. Here are some links you might find useful.
https://www.thercracer.com/2018/08/5...ld-review.html
https://www.thercracer.com/2015/09/t...build-and.html
https://www.thercracer.com/search?q=tt02

Thank you

I used the Yeah Racing combo listed. The drive cups are a little on the soft side. Some bashing on 4000kv brushless and 3s has indented some of them where the drive pin meets the cup. Still holding up fine though for almost a year of hard bashing. I've broken the universals, But not the cups.

I appreciate your help all.

I guess I'll have to go with Yeah by default. I've never been satisfied with the materials they use, but in the past I've had some luck hardening other manufacturers parts. Depending on the steel they use I might get lucky.

Guess I quoted the wrong username LOL. Yea just keep an eye out for the Tamiya stuff. It pops up on fleabay from time to time with decent prices. When that happens I usually buy extras.

Just finishing up the VTA Yeah Racing especial tonight.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...f120145572.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...0928d4e9ed.jpg

1973 Porsche Carrera RS light bucket update.
 

So I finally started messing with Tinkercad, because I was unhappy with pretty much every other option when it came to Headlight buckets for this body.

Someone finally posted a set for this body on thingyverse, but it has holes for 3 5mm LEDs. This pushed me to finally start messing with modifying 3d prints. I'm designing a set with single 5mm holes for the LEDs and I'm printing the prototype now.

So I can't take credit for the original design, just the modifications to it so when I do post it, I will link the original designers link as well. Just wanted to let you all know, Incase some of you are also searching for these. Will be totally free. Just download and print on pretty much any 3d printer.

Pics added.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...b57ccf7af6.jpg
Original design
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...2a7654c826.jpg
Modification
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...1ad6b2da6c.jpg
More modification
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...30873eb264.jpg
Prototype first set. I can clean up the lines with a smaller layer height or some sanding

Original file with 3 led holes https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5100240

This is the type S conversion set

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...sus-mount-set/

Then you need to buy the arms and shock towers. The carbon set are available but not sure of the graphite ones

Front plate

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/7-dig...er-stay-58600/

rear

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/7-digit-spare-parts/rc-rear-damper-stay-58600/

arms

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/spare...5-ifs-d-parts/

You can use these as well

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...sible-sus-arm/

Do you think the Yeah Knuckles are worth while if I plan to keep the stock arms or are they just bling?

More durable, precise, lighter??

What suspension arms are you running? How did you mount the sway bars to chassis bulkhead?

Mugen shocks?

Anyone with a used TT02 for sale please let me know. Really wanting to get into it without buying something new.

You want a used basic TT-02 kit? It only costs 80€ new right now over here... (on sale). How much more do you want to save?

The suspension is the Yeah Racing conversion kit: YEAH RACING COMPETITION TOURING CAR UPGRADE KIT FOR TAMIYA TT02. The shocks are also YR.

Interesting. Wasn’t aware the made composite arms. Very cool

Hmmm. $200 upgrade for a TT-02....:weird:...We're well off the rails now - nearly hopped the track. That's half the cost of a new TA08 Pro....
I have 3 TT-02 of my own (and an -08), but.....I'm speechless.
I guess some of us really love the old shafties'

Remember: it's a hobby. It doesn't always have to make sense. And even things that don't make sense to you, may make sense for someone else, for various reasons.

Yes, on a pure cost/performance calculation, spending this much on hopping up a TT-02 for an open chassis class makes no sense, whatsoever. Heck, getting a TT-02 for racing in itself is not a good choice... unless class rules require it.

We have a racing series here with a class that requires an original, unmodified TT-01 or TT-02 chassis tub (blinky ESC, spec fixed timing motor, fixed gearing), but otherwise open tuning. That's what I configured my TT-02 for (and I simply cannot make myself stop half-way when hopping up any car. Once I start, it gets the full treatment. Just because I want to. And given the cheap plastic look, I was happy for every single blue part that made the car look less awfully cheap.:lol:)

I paid $175 for it to convert a car that's been sitting on my shelf for years, so for me it was a sub-$200 option to run a second class (VTA). I'm sure there are cars in this thread that have more than that invested in Tamiya option parts alone. Where you would have a valid point is that the quality of the Tamiya parts is far superior lol. Still, it was fun to put together, and it'll be fun to bring to the track. Plus, I won't mind it getting beat on in VTA.

Yours is the best looking TT02 I have seen. And I really like it in black than in blue. Looks like that $175 convert kit doesn't include shocks, but does it include drive shafts and outdrive hubs for the diff? I like how they add down stops and sway bars option, and also the rear toe adjustment as well.

Found the picture.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...b76755f4a8.jpg

I see they sell the sway bar mounts by themselves

Yeah Racing TATT-034 Anti-Roll Bar Set For TATT-S04

Thank you. I prefer the all-black as well. No, it does not include the shocks. It does include universals, outdrives, and clamping wheel hex adaptors. The kit quality was decent. A bit better than I expected, actually. Some of it required a bit of massaging and extra parts to get working, but nothing major. We'll see how well it holds up on the track.

3D printed splitters
 

So I'm almost done with the 911 headlight buckets, and got sidetracked and whipped up some prototype splitters for the Evo body and the 911 RSR body (The RSR build is almost complete and looks incredible IMO).

I used an existing print on thingiverse for the 1991 Audi V8 splitter.
Link to original splitter - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4719000

​​​​​​Added cutouts for wider tires, and trimmed to fit the bodies. Need more filament before I can finally print some prototypes and make adjustments for the final versions.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...5dbf62408f.jpg

I know what you want...
 

I put a lot of effort into some of my builds. I thoroughly enjoy it too. This one is not quite complete, But I'm pretty proud of it already. Hope you drool as much as I do :lol:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...e853866151.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...25baa975a8.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...d7921d2389.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...6cbf03a7c5.jpg

Tailpipes are awesome man. Was that with the diffuser you made?

Thanks bud! I haven't had the chance to order some filament yet, So I have yet to print and test out the 2 splitters I modified. I'm sure they'll need a little tweaking. For the Carrera splitter I'd like to better match the outcrop on the lower front bumper instead of just the long radius curve.

I also am trying to figure out a way to turn one of the splitters into a rear diffuser for the speed run rig. I'm positive I can make it work, I'll just have to get creative. Once I get a little further into Tinkercad, I may try my hand at some side skirts as well.