I have only broke one in over 6 months and it was a large impact (So acceptable to me). I'm not an agressive or novice driver but any form of racing has its accidents.

It's the only part that's broken and that's fine as everything breaks at some point. However as also mentioned here others have had more breaks with light collisions. That's not good for a kit that's aimed at all levels from beginners upwards.

It may be because we had the first batch, but as tamiya has acknowledged the fault with new parts its safe to say that they needed a revision going forward.

True and I agree.

Since there are no rally bodies coming on the TT-02 I really want, I have looked into getting the semi-assembled chassis as I mentioned before.

No matter what happens though, the outcome is still the same in regards to price.

Banzai - $228 (Subaru 2008 WRC body)
RcMart - $241 (Exo Body)

The price difference is because Banzai charges less for the chassis ($101 vs $119) and slightly lower shipping charges from RcMart (Hong Kong vs Japan).

That not out of my budget but its more than I wanted to spend. That includes bearings and CVA shocks because to be frank pretty much every car is coming with those, but Tamiya.

I can get the Kyosho Fazer Rally car for $202 out the door, RTR. While I can't run the TCS with it and maybe Kyosho parts are expensive + hard to find, I think I can live with that, still thinking it over.

Since yesterday I can call a TT-02 my own, too :)

Bought it with the Porsche 911 Carrera RSR body - I love it! :cool:

Started to build it yesterday and equipped it with bearings, the aluminum propeller joints (54502), the aluminum propeller shaft (54501) as well as the CVA mini shocks (53619).

Haven't finisehd yet, but I'm excited to :)

Does anyone have any idea if the Tamiya kits that Banzai Hobby sells come with an ESC? The Tamiya website says the kits come with TEU-105BK but the Banzai website shows that it doesn't. EVERYTHING else is exactly the same including model number. I've tried contacted them but haven't received a reply so thought I'd ask here.

Great body! Here you can find some pictures of my creation:
http://www.modelbouw-aktueel.nl/page...-tamiya156.php

The Tamiya kit builds from Banzai Hobby do not usually come with an ESC but the RTR ones that come complete and assembled with radio gear normally do have an ESC.
It seems to be something with only the export kid builds cominging with an ESC...

Cheers,
Crouch

Just thought I’d add my 2c here comparing the TT-02 platform and drivetrain back to its predecessor, the TT-01.

My previous RC was a TT-01 drifter and so far I’ve built three vehicles of the new TT-02 platform – one drifter and two buggies.

Many people have commented that the TT-02 has not improved on the TT-01 because it does not come standard with features like bearings, oil shocks, etc., and I certainly agree in the case of bearings in particular.

But one thing that I think hasn’t been highlighted enough is the improvements to the actual design itself, vs the TT-01.

Some examples include:
* It’s much easier to work on with the diffs dropping in from the top, rather than the sides – you don’t have to tip it on its end or remove the lower suspension (I switched out a diff the other day on my driveway in 5 minutes just by disconnecting the suspension and steering and unscrewing the top of the diff housing)
* It’s much easier to attach and remove the suspension, uprights and knuckles because they’re not held in place by the diff covers
* Drifters no longer need to cut away parts of the chassis to achieve maximum steering angle
* There are fewer gaps and holes underneath, making it much better suited for offroad use
* The suspension arms are set for maximum movement droop, without needing to cut anything away
* The main driveshaft is a sturdier design and is much easier to install as it drops straight in – Your not poking it through the sides of the diff housing
* The ends that connect into the diffs from the main driveshaft are identical at either end reducing confusion
* The tub can now fit hard case LiPo’s
* Everything seems much more rugged and sturdier

And I’m sure there’s more.

So while it may not have additional features included, the core design itself is much more user-friendly to use and maintain vs the TT-01.

Just my 2c.

Cheers,
Crouch

They should also address suspension tunability like camber, toe, etc.

The TT02 is better in every single way to the TT01. TT01's also came with bushings and friction shocks, its only the Drift versions that had oil shocks and bearings, Tamiya has a drift TT02-D which will be released soon that will have these included.

Thanks friend this helped. I'll just get the upgrades from them. Speaking of which.

I was going to get these hop up parts from Banzai:

54476 TT02 Ball Bearing Set
54558 TT02 Aluminum Motor Mount
54501 TT02 Alum Propeller Shaft
54502 TT02 Alum Propeller Joint
54539 TT02B Full Turnbuckle Set
51527 TT02 A Parts - Upright
51528 TT02 B Parts - Sus Arm
51529 TT02 C Parts - Cup Joint
51530 TT02 D Parts - Motor Mount

Can someone please tell me if something here is unnecessary or of there is something else I should get? I'm getting the spares just cause they are kind of cheap but if you guys don't think I need them I won't buy them.

I was trying to decide between the TT02 and a used TB03 but I think the TB03 is a bit too much care for me at the moment and I think I'd like to try racing in the novice Tamiya class.

Also, can someone tell me how fast the stock motor is in the TT02 kit? The description just says 540 brushed motor but i'm not sure how many turns or anything like that.

No worries mate, happy to help.

In regards to those hop ups / spares I pretty much agree with everything there as a good starting point however the turnbuckle set listed I believe is for the TT-02'B' (Buggy) model and hence will not fit the sedan models.
Also I have the Tamiya alloy prop shaft but have been happier with the one from Eagle Racing as its shaped to fit the prop joints (Google 'Broadtech' and have a look through their stuff, slow website but great products and service). Have a look at the pics in one of my albums as i've fitted this to one of my TT02B's.

While your on broadtech maybe have a look at some oil shocks as well? Perhaps alloy steering blocks / uprights and a front one-way?

Not sure whether you'll really need the D parts, can't see much there that would break.

I don't have any experience with the TB03 but it looks to be a more advanced chassis.
The TT-02 is good but at the end of the day it is an entry level model.
Just be wary that by the time you've hopped up the TT-02 you may end up spending the sort of money that would have bought you a better chassis to begin with.
I don't mind doing that because for me that's half the fun!

The stock 540 'silver can' brushed motor is good, you'll have fun with it, but it is on the slower side of everything that's available now days. Don't quote me but I think it's around 27 turns.
For a nice little boost and only few dollars off Banzai you could get a Tamiya Sport Tuned 'black can' motor that I think is around 23 turns and will still work with the stock Tamiya TEU-105BK ESC.

I've written a review of the TT-02B buggies that may be of interest / relevant if you want to head over to the electric off road section.

Another option you might want to consider is to wait for the drift spec TT-02D (Google 'Tamiaya TT02D') which should be coming out soon (Feb?). It will give you your oil shocks, bearings, sport tuned motor, motor heat sink and some other bling probably cheaper than buying them separately. You'd need to switch the tyres over to on-road tyres though.

Good luck!
Crouch

Hey all,

As I mentioned above, there is information on the net about the TT-02D drift spec potentially being available in Feb.

Upgrades vs the stock TT-02 include:
* Ball bearings (guessing not the steering though)
* Oil shocks
* Sport tuned motor
* Blue motor heat sink
* Silver brake discs
* Blue alloy battery strap
* Super drift tech tyres

No adjustable camber though which I think is dissapointing, kind of a core thing for a drifter.

What I was most interested in though is the pictures showing what looks to be a different material used (dark grey as opposed to black) for parts like the suspension towers.
Do you think this is just a prototype model (seems unlikely given the parts look identical to the stock TT-02) or perhaps are these the reinforced parts mentioned earlier in this thread?

Cheers,
Crouch

The grey parts are the re-enforced plastic parts. These will be available separately :)

I did remove the turnbuckle set and added the basic Tamiya oil shocks from Banzai. I do realize that all these add ons drives up the price to TB03 levels but ultimately anything but the TT01 or TT02 wasn't an option for me since I want to try Spec/Novice class.

Cool.

I also recommend a tamiya high torque servo saver as well, to protect your servo from damage.

Cheers,
Crouch

Make sure to set the gearing to TCS spec and add a fan blowing into the commutator hole and the motor can. You might need to buy pinions and spurs to get to the gearing. Do not add aluminum motor heat sink as they do nothing but trap heat. Will see you on saturday.

Fantastic!

Looks very nice :)

Finished my body in the meantime, decided to do a simple design.
I painted the Rims with Revell color, black and aluminium.

Also painted the brake disc with Revell color aluminium.
I think it looks quite nice :)
A picture of my TT02 is also attached.

Just to clear the air -

Banazi Hobby Cart both based in Japan have Japanese market kits/rtr's. The kits do not come with a ESC, but the RTR's do, obviously it wouldn't be an RTR now would it without one?

RCMart carries what I am going to assume is NA/EU market kits and do include a ESC.

Have fun, I need to get some stuff done around here because I have no actual workspace and need to not create some but just get rid of stuff or put it in its proper place.

Clean build Stefan!
Like it a lot.:nod:
Also nice electronics installation!
Will you use it for Racing?

Br,
Matthias

Thanks Matthias :)


Maybe, I don't know yet. I bought it because of the body in first place :D
But there's a series called 'Youngtimer-Trophy' with very simple rules:
- Body of the original must be manufactured between 1966 and 1988
- No additional parts on the body except the ones included in the body kit
- Tires to use are the ones delivered with the kit or the HPI Vintage tires, but no disk rims
- Scale look preferred, so no airbrusehd flames or something like that
- Motor to use is the Carson Cup Machine
(all for the TT-class, M-Chassis-Class has slightly different rules)

More information here: http://rc-youngtimer-trophy.blogspot.de/

I like that series a lot because of its simplicity... maybe I'll give it a try :)

I have a question about my TT02 build. I just finished and noticed a slight problem and I'm not sure what I did wrong.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-j...014521_091.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-W...014541_160.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-c...023617_772.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-L...014750_916.jpg


My problem is that my rear wheels don't stick out far enough it seems. I followed the Standard kit instructions and the body came with the kit so I'm not sure why its not flush? The front is better but the rear seems really pushed in. Now, there is an option to make a wide build but I didn't do that becuase it doesn't come with that piece C6 for the front wheels. It DOES come with piece A13 which is wider rear wheel hub. Why does it come with the piece for the rear but not the front?

Should I just install the wider A13 hubs to the rear? The Standard instructions say to install the A14 hubs but you can see how far in the wheels are.

Any advice?

Here is what its supposed to look like:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/images/prod...ustom_head.jpg

Yes, you just need to fit them for the rear, the wheels are correct for the front as they are.

The instructions at the start tell you to check wheelbase and width so you can spot this when building.

The Capri shell is fantastic!

Just build a TT02 with my young son last night. Since his Traxxas vehicles are waterproof, we wanted to try and make this one waterproof as well, just for fun. We built it with a Traxxas waterproof servo and installed a Traxxas waterproof radio box in place of the kit's radio box. Still have the kits ESC, but will eventually get the Traxxas XL-5. This is one build where we actually wanted to use all the nylon bearings!

Just use a13 and widen the rear. Front looks okay. However, wider rear makes for a aggressive rear end

Here's my TT02. Running a Speed Passion GT2.0 LPF Bluestar, Speed Passion V3 MMM 13.5t, DX3R pro and a Savox 1251mg. Also, there are no stickers on the shell. It's all paint.

-Jeremy

Looks great :)

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...091519_064.jpg

That was a lot of decals!

I still need to widen the wheelbase. This is gonna be super fun on the Tamiya track.

Okay so I have a problem.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-L...014750_916.jpg

Earlier I thought A13 was for the rear and C6 was for the front but thats not the case. They are both used together for the rear to get wider tread which is what I need to make the wheels sit flush. The problem is my kit did not come with part C6 and according to a comment some dude posted on that TT02 blog, his didn't come with it either for the Capri. Our kits just came with the shorter axle. This seems like an error or something on Tamiya's part. Should I contact them or am I still doing something wrong?

It looks like the rear wheels are built like the front. The barrels ( Outer sliver parts ) need to be flipped around for more offset. As you can see in the Tamiya promo photo the rear wheels have a lot more dish than the front.

-Jeremy

Okay I will try flipping the rear wheels. I guess I still don't understand why they give you part A13 but no C6.

Yeah that totally fixed my issue, I hadn't even thought about flipping the wheels. Thanks!

Hi guys,
just rebuilding my TT02 for this years spec class Racing.
I noticed, that with the rear suspension limiters and CVA-Dampers built according TT01 manual, the TT02 has much more front than rear droop.
So I wanted to ask the Racers here, if anyone already experimented with different internal spacers on the front, to reduce max. lengths (and droop).
I didn´t see a shock manual from Tamiya so far, that suggests how to set up the lengths.

Br,
Matthias

I added a spacer in the font to dial out more of the front droop. I prefer the rear to have a little more droop than the front. (Albeit both quite similar in range)

building my TT02 currently, and is targeting to use the 90T/ 50T tamiya spur/ pinion combo.

so, happily picked up my dremel, and start working away... and shit happens when i was a little bit impatient. :cry::cry:

the pic speaks a thousand words.

so now, all those who have dremeled their motor cover, can post some pics to share. :D

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/V2-G/IMAG0044.jpg

spot the minor hole that appeared when i overdo it? :sweat::sweat:

Thanks Qatmix for the info, that was exactly the answer I searched.
Probably I have to make some trials how much will be good on mine. As we have some higher Plastic curbs, too less droop always ends with flying high when hitting one.:lol:

Br,
Matthias

I've used a dremel to for more space in de gear cover, but i was more patient :p
This wknd my youngest girl will be racing the TT-02, i put more spacers in de rear shocks so the weight transfer goes towards the rear.
Just the avoid over steering and have a better rear grip.

I'm having trouble dialing in the steering on my TT02. It doesn't seem to want to go straight. What things should I be looking at?

Also I was told adding shims to take out slop is something I should do. What should I use for shims? Do you guys just use small, thin washers or something?

From over 8 years experience with the TT01, I´d say let the slop as it is. It doesn´t effect the lap times on a TT. It just becomes strange to drive and is unnecessary work. Steering links is maybe the only exception. There you should check from time to time.

Br,
Matthias

Hi guys I have a problem with my TT02B. I know this thread is just for the TT02 but bear with me because they have the exact same running gear. Ok so the bevel gear which connects the driveshaft to the diff has been stripped, not the teeth, but the inside of the bevel gear which gets the power from the driveshaft.:cry: I am running the exact same setup as my TT02 touring car, 5.5T brushless 6000kv w/ 60A esc.:nod: With this setup I have had zero problems on my touring TT02 but the power may be too great for the TT02B.
For those who don't know the TT02B is an offroad buggy, same chassis as the TT02 but with a completely different suspension system.

So anyway I was wondering whether you guys know where to get a metal bevel gear so it won't get stripped out.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.:tire:

so with the tt02 out now, is it ok to still get a tto1 or is it just stupid?

they are the same price on rcmart.