Double post

Try a bit of grease between friction surfaces and don't go gorilla tight on screw. Let thread lock do its job.

Yeah I see your pushing on it with your finger. is it turning on the spline and bolt area where it connects to the servo ?. I was thinking it could be a gear in the servo or just an effed up savor.

The spline is not moving. Maybe a faulty servo saver. Well it's working but not centering very well. Unlike my other tamiya HT servo saver installed in my m05 it centers very well even if you force it.

https://realtinker.blogspot.com/2019/12/the-tamiya-tt02-just-02-not-b-not-r-not.html

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B9Gw39JuP...130_181143.jpg

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zPUyf8GGQ...201_000510.jpg

So, I built one. I drove it on gravel. I like it.

Soon to be released 47439 1/10 TT-02 Type-SR Chassis Kit? Swap bars please!

Hope it's the type s with useful upgrades that will help racers.

Need VTA setup for TT-02 s
 

Looking to use a TT-02 Type-S in VTA. Anyone have a setup I can start with or know where I can find one? I'm racing on a very small asphalt track.

Yes hopefully this is just a R version of the S and comes with all the aluminum upgrades the regular R or RR come with. If so this will be the Pro Spec setup to have.

If you are talking about the Tamiya TCS series GT Pro Spec class, I doubt the SR will be legal if it's based on an upgraded S chassis, as the rules for that particular class specifically exclude the TT-02S. At least in 2019...
https://www.tamiyausa.com/media/file...s-962-a4df.pdf

If you are referring to a different series, ignore me and carry on. ;)

Yes you are correct, I forgot they allowed the S in the Novice Spec class but not the Pro Spec class.

All good. The only reason I knew about it was because I was just looking at maybe building something for that class (and eyeballing an R).....then I went and got stupid and pulled a trigger on an TB Evo.7.....because I needed another standard TC :weird:. Will probably look at an R again later in the winter if it looks like I'll have time to race w/ some of the guys down south that run a TCS style class structure (including Pro Spec) next summer. I just tend to get super busy over the summer w/ road trips and bike riding that RC typically takes a back seat until winter when the weather is less than ideal outside.

I just picked up this TT-02 Mustang GT4 from a chap who had a change of plans. The body came painted but I had to add the decals. Looks OK and should be fun for my club's proposed TTGT class that calls for stock TT-01 / TT-02 with the silver can motor but USGT tires.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...f9f5989bbb.jpg

Looks familiar Steve, mt GT4 was also painted in Corsa Grey.
If you can make the trek we race TT here in Vaughn at Phoenix RC as well. Next Trophy Race is Race 3&4 of Phoenix Cup. January 19 and February 23

It's such a nice color.
Looks like the offset of those rims tucks the tires under the body.
If you can run the 'wide' axles (if your rules allow) it will flush the rim to the side of the body.
I had the same thing happen with some other tamiya bodies that are more of a 190mm width for the 186mm width chassis. I'll see if I can dig up a photo.

Seth

The wide axles are not included in the kit, and as we are running a box stock class I doubt that I can use them anyway.

really? I didn't know that.
They wide axles are on the standard 'C parts' tree.

Seth

The manual has the axles greyed out with the note of "Either Rear Wheel Axles C3 or C6 are included." with the C6 being the long wheel base. Tamiya must adjust the kits depending on version to include different axles.

I do have two center shafts and two A5 steering parts though along with the motor mount for a 380 Mabuchi motor.

The Gravity USGT tires are 24mm while the kit supplied rims and tires are 26mm. Looks a bit better with the kit tires.

If I add a 1mm wheel spacer and use the serrated wheel nuts, the Gravity RC tires move outward slightly and look better.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...3f0ab23502.jpg

Use the kit wheels/tires on the shelf. On the track run what works... USGT Premounts.
Myself and a Buddy have tried USGT Tire on kit 26mm +2 offset wheels and they just don't work, car is stupid loose.
With the narrow track width it runs much faster and is easier to drive.

That did it!

Seth

Just completed a TT02 rally build today. I havent been into RC cars in a long time. Most of my last 10-12 years of RC has been helis and planes.

I cannot believe how much slop is in the front suspension and the lack of bearings, turn buckles, etc. I have ordered a bearing kit. I was looking at the hop-ups to bring this chassis into a respectable track car. Looks like you have to put about $200 into the base kit. Is that right?

If I am going to do that I should have just bought a high end racer $450-600 to begin with. Am I wrong here? Like I said no RC cars in the last 15 or so years. I do remember I had HPI RS something that was tight out of the box years ago.

Built box stock there is substantial slop, but it can be shimmed out if you are patient for relatively little cost. Bearings are a must and it amazes me that Tamiya still sells these kits with the white plastic bushings when a full bearing kit costs as little as $7 anymore. At least they could include the bronze bushings.

The cost to make the TT-02 a tack capable car is high and it will never compete well. There are so many other 'entry level' sedans out there that are far superior that it makes no sense to spend $$ on upgrading the TT cars.

This will have to become a basher for the front culdusack when the kids are playing out front. The only tracks in my area within an hour are clay off road for buggies and trucks. Seems like the 15+ years I have been absent from the car game all the local tracks have vanished.

If I had my time again, I would have bought an Xpress or something to start out with.

Not really - if you add Tamiya 54752 you should be ok to go for your steering concern.
I assume your kit has adjustable shocks so you can mess with spring rates and fluids so no extra money here.

Want to firm up the tub for tighter steering response, they make an aftermarket carbon brace and that's $20 but not needed for rally.

If you want to lower the FDR you get the high speed gear set for $10. All in you're at maybe $50 and done.

If you really want to go faster, you need to find a non-tamiya motor mount and large pinion, but this is probably overkill for rally too.

Otherwise, you 'can' get the aluminum prop shaft and joint, it won't make you faster, but doesn't wobble like the stock one at higher speeds. Same with changing any of the non-adjustable parts for their adjustable options. These things usually are stock on the R and RR (and to a lesser extent D).
The $200 number you saw was probably for appearances stuff (aluminum and carbon all the things!) but don't really impact performance at this level.
As others have mentioned, the TT02 is good for spec racing, or racing at lower speeds. It is objectively an excellent racer, just not in every class under the sun.
If you want to do stuff in 17.5 TC, or USGT, it's not the chassis for you because at that level being able to tweak every little thing is important and the 02 doesn't have that ability without substantially changing lots of parts. Not saying it can't be done, but as others said, it ends up costing more than a basic kit from another brand.

Seth

I'm with them. Save your money and just enjoy the TT-02 as a backyard Rally car. I wouldn't put any money into it. Pick up an Xpress, a Sakura or better, if your budget allows, and hit the track with that.
- Jose

TT-02 is a good car for a hobby store to use to get new people on the track. The low price and lack of adjustability makes it easy to get into racing. Newcomers are not overwhelmed by the endless adjustments most other cars have. This gives rookies a much better chance to win with little practice. It's one of a few classes of racing won on the track and not the workbench.
This is a low cost entry level car, made more for bashing, so your going to get slop. A lot of people that buy RC cars use them 5 or 6 times and that's it. Plastic bushings fine for that. Get the bearings if your one of the few that races it in a TT-02 class or want more use out of it. This car will need some money if you want to race it against X-ray, Shumacher, or Associated cars, and you will be at a disadvantage. Those cars are made for racing.

I think the TT02 with bearings is a good car. One of the problems we have in r/c racing is the thought that we all need one of the top and expensive brands to have fun racing. I think that if we want to draw more people to r/c racing is that we have a less expensive class to race in. The Euro Truck is an example of a class rules that should be applied to other classes. The EuroTruck Class is good, but the bodies are too expensive. In some places the run a "TT" class with then same basic rules as the Euro Truck with the exception of tires and bodies of course.

Exactly. The key word is "Fun" and the TT-02 kit can provide lots of inexpensive fun for anyone looking to try on road racing. My club, along with a few others in the area, are trying to start a TTGT class using the base TT-01 and TT-02 chassis. No SS or R models, just the base versions. We've set rules as follows;

PROPOSED Rules for TTGT (Spec class)

CHASSIS: stock TT01 / TT01E or base TT02 / TT02SE ( B/D/T/S/R/RR variants NOT permitted)
ESC: "Box stock" Tamyia ESC as delivered in the OEM box
TIRES: Gravity Racing USGT tires on styled spoked rims
SERVO: Open (servo saver may be added)
BODY: Scale Tamyia Sports car bodies only, no TC, Prototype or Stock Sedan style bodies
WINGS: Molded plastic and only what came in the kit - no non-OEM wings may be added
MOTOR: Tamyia brushed Silver can 540 Torque Tuned motor ( for the initial run this season for the class whatever motor that came in the kit may be run )
BATTERY: Lipo 2 cell, 8000 mah Max

Only Allowed Modifications

• Hex screws may be used in place of the OEM Tamyia screws
• Nylon bushings maybe replaced with ball bearings
• battery connectors may be swapped for Deans or other type connection
• Round Lipo batteries are preferred However - Chassis ribs may be removed to allow a standard rectangular Lipo batteries to be used ( will allow racers to use batteries they may already have keeping costs down)

The spirit of RCGT lives on! I’m happy to see this!

the day USGT opened the doors to PF bodies was a Pandora’s box. Now PF, Bitty, Monetech, McCallister, Exotek are all making “lookalike” bodies.

The only changes I would add is functional Hop ups that would allow durability, like the TCS Spec Novice

Speed Tuned Gear Set
Aluminum motor mount
Oil-filled dampers
Alu centre prop shaft

...and racers are spending hundreds, if not thousands of dollars, on top-line sedan chassis just to compete in what was to have been a more sportsman type of class.

That's great! Some us can remember when the Slash first came out and all the fun we had in the Slash stock class, When everyone had to go faster, handle better, etc., it disappeared in our area. I hope you have great success and others will copy it.

Allowing these upgrades defeats the purpose and intent of the box stock class and I would discourage anything like this. Leave the cars as stock as possible so that everyone has the same opportunity to succeed. It's tough getting younger kids to stop playing Nintendo Switch as it is, no need to open Pandora's Box by allowing upgrades. The Tamiya Truck class is fun and no upgrades allowed other than bearings.

Just ordered a bearing kit and will call it a day on this one. If anything I will use it to teach my boys.

It's human nature to want to improve and give yourself some kind of advantage. We would still be chasing our dinner with a stick or rock if it wasn't for that.
The track needs to set strict and clear rules. Looking into how past attempts at this have failed and hopefully not making the same mistakes.
Definitely make everyone use the same chassis. Same motor and ESC to keep price down and hopefully attract more people. It be nice if there was a brushless motor that was consistent and sealed so people couldn't monkey around inside of it.
I'm not sure what they can do about everyone buying the same body. Production cars only would get my vote.

I race TT-02 and some things you just have to modify on this car. You will find yourself DNFing about every race if you don't, and that will discourage a lot of people.
I never had any problems with the center shaft. In fact that's still one of the very few original parts on my car. You will be popping front dog bones very easily after a few crashes. A heavy duty wide bumper and O-rings inside the cups will help keep them in. Otherwise new control arms will be needed.
I would leave friction shock in. They aren't that good but keeps things simple for people starting out. The track can do another TT-02 class permitting a few upgrades for people who want to adjust the cars.
A better stearing rack mount is also a must. The 2 screws that go into the chassis will bend and strip out. You need to send a screw through the chassis and nut it on the bottom.
None of these mods will make you go faster. It will just help you finish the entire race and not 2 minutes into a 7 or 8 min one.

Agree.. RCGT is what brought me into racing.. and on the one hand USGT kept the class going but then it’s turned into TC light class

We run a similar class.

The thought process behind what hop-ups are allowed, is durability and driveability.

So we only allow bearings, alloy motor mount, CVA shocks, rear hubs, and front universals.

Tyres are the club's own control tyre.