Originally Posted by fyrstormer (Post 15886182)

The main purpose of submerging a motor during a wet break-in is to subject the motor to significant drag, so the motor will have to work extremely hard for an extended period of time. The significant drag limits the motor's speed, which reduces the magnetic flux inside the can. The reduced magnetic flux is unable to generate as much inductive resistance in the armature coils as it normally would if the motor were spinning freely. The lower resistance allows the battery to push more amperage through the motor, and because that amperage is being pushed through a very tiny contact area between the brand-new brushes and the commutator, the contacting surfaces of the brushes get extremely hot and start to disintegrate. This accelerates the break-in process by an order of magnitude -- but it can also destroy soft brushes in a matter of seconds, as I and many other people have discovered over the years. A wet break-in is only useful (or safe) for motors with extremely hard brushes that would take an extremely long time to break-in without the continuous drag of running underwater. For brushed motors with softer brushes, a few full-throttle accelerations will put enough load on the motor to break-in the brushes, and then the commutator can be cleaned with electronics cleaner spray.

Regarding brush debris: Submerging the motor in water allows brush debris to be washed away instantly by the churning water inside the motor, whereas applying a few drops of water directly to the brushes just causes the debris to form a grinding paste that stays on the brushes. That's why the brushes broke-in so quickly for you. If it works, it works, but there's a significant risk of the brushes being damaged by so much abrasive material in such a small area.

(source for magnetic flux explanation: John Rob Holmes of Holmes Hobbies LLC)

Originally Posted by Electric Ned (Post 15888102)

I'm about to build my 2nd tt-02r, and I'm wondering if cv joints/harder cups, etc. are available. Can someone tell me what the "hot" setup is and a source?

Many thanks

Originally Posted by lnc0321 (Post 15888246)

Hi guys,

Just have a quick question. Are the YeahRacing shocks 50mm the correct ones for the TT02? They also have 55mm but I am not sure which one is the right one.

Thank you,

Originally Posted by bd007 (Post 15887670)

Where can I buy this part set? I want to replace the arms with Type S or SR kind. Or where can I find a Type S kit with reasonable price?

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...5bc0f77b8b.jpg

Originally Posted by bentouttashape (Post 15888277)

The Tamiya universal option (53792) are going to be the nicest, but they are costlier and it appears mostly out-of-stock, in the US at least. The Yeah Racing universals are decent, available, and not quite as costly. The part number is YEA-TT02-015. You'll need to use their drive cups as well for the diff, which I think is YEA-TATT-017, but I would double check.



Yes, the 50mm are the ones to go with for TT02. I would recommend using the Tamiya o-rings. You'll likely have to sand down the plastic shaft guide a bit to keep it from binding.

Originally Posted by lnc0321 (Post 15888316)

Thank you

Originally Posted by Electric Ned (Post 15888363)

I appreciate your help all.

I guess I'll have to go with Yeah by default. I've never been satisfied with the materials they use, but in the past I've had some luck hardening other manufacturers parts. Depending on the steel they use I might get lucky.