Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

I don't think its neccesary either, but we've all seen the pictures in the magazines. I think the picture I saw(in Car ACtion or RC Car) was of a Reedy TC race before the motor limit was put in. The Orion support guys had a armarature board that had a good 30-40 armaratures on it. I guess that was for all their drivers there.

black-knight

Just bumping the Corally thread to the top.

By the way i hae some of the new 6 spoke Serpent/Corally rims, very nice!

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Black-knight: which "new" wheels are those? You know where I can catch a picture of them.

Are they light, firm, high quality?

black-knight

Remember on telast Corally news letter, it mentioned new 6 Spoke rims...

I will take some pics later on today, and i will post them here (in a few hours).

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Oh, okay. Now I remember.

Some pics of them would be great.

black-knight

can't postpic of my own car ..my digital camera won't work with Win XP.

But... i have got some product pics of the wheels..here they are;






There is one small prob with the wheels.. the corally washers that go behind the wheel screw are a tight fit.

I currently using some of these wheels with trued and glued foam. I've got some yellow 6 spoke rims ready for some rubber tires.

speedmaster

Hi guys,

i am glad to have finally found a decent thread for Corally drivers. I own a C4.1 which I use in our Stock class championship.
We use Corally 21x1 sealed stock motors in our class.
I am very happy with the car, but I just have some small problem.
The car, out of tight right-handers, is kinda slippery. I have tried to adjust the spring length but it still remains the same. Can anyone help? We race on grippy tarmac...asphalt and the track is made up of a long, fast straight, a fast chicane, to fast corners and about 5 to 9 slow hairpins, according to the track configuration.
I also seem to loose most in tight corners (when compared to TC3 or MR4tc). I can't make the car go fast enough in corners. Any help on that also?
Sorry to post this question, which you may find stupid , but which is the best charging current for 3000mA batteries, for best power?

Can anyone suggest some good setup for a track like ours please?
10x to all.

regards from Sunny Malta .... although nearly winter!!

black-knight

Your car may have some tweak,so you should check the following:

1. Make sure all of you shocks are as equal as possible (very importaint). Double check the springs as well some times two Corally/Serpent springs of the same colour can be slightly different.

2. Check for bent hinge pins

3. Check you droop screw settings

4. Make sure your camber and toe is equal on front and rear

5. Give you car about 2 degrees of rear tow in.


Charging 3000's?

I always charge my 3000's at 4.0amps

Sanyo's @ 4.0amps with 15-20mv cut off
Pano SMH @ 4.0amps with 8mv cut off

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Speedmaster: I would suggest you check your rear hinge pins for straightnes. Even if they look straight on the outside, pull them out and roll them on a glass table to ensure their straight. This was my problem when the car was kind slippery turning one way but not the other.

Second do a tweak check. Just like BK(Black-Knight) told you to. But, to expand on what he said, you should loosen all your top deck screws, press the chassis down firmly on a table, and tighten them back down in an cris-cross pattern. That should take care of any additional tweak that might have worked its way into your chassis.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

BK: those wheels are nice. I think I like the standard C4.1 wheels better though. You know the kit wheels with the 9 spokes(three solid spokes three spit spokes)

The wheel of choice for me is still the Proline Gumby rims though.

black-knight

When using rubber tires i like to use the Proline Inch-Up Velocity, they fit the corally well..and look good!

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

BK: Yeah, thats why I like the Proline Gumby. It fits the car well, and looks great when mounting low profile tires. Also, it gives the proper off set to get me to 190mm, without the need to screw the pivot balls way out.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Hey all- How are we?
I'm really starting to appreciate my C.4 after attempting to run a different car this weekend
Practiced and qualified with a substitute car and never really felt good in the corners although the other car was fast on straights. So for the main I decided to switch back to the C.4 since I was qualified last in the Mod a-main. The C.4 didn't fault once and I managed to work through traffic and finished 2nd after starting dead last. I'll be selling the other car soon.

Trips

iTrader: (16)

Is the Gumby's offset different from any of the other ProLine rims? It's one of my favorite rims too.

Trips

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

I used to use Proline rims till Hpi came out with the R-5. Just as light but a whole lot less flex.

Speedmaster- Just like the fellow C.4 runners mentioned check your tweak and hinge pins. Do you know how to check your droop-set tweak with a ride hight guage? Let me know if you don't and i'll explain. As far as your other looseness (car kicking out at mid corner?) in tight corners droop, ride hight, and shock angles and of coarse tires are the main culprits. For the rear increase droop & make sure the chassis isn't bottoming or scraping but also not too high. For the front decrease droop and try moving the front top shock to the outter hole. Try running the car and see how it feels- if it feels close then try moving the back shock tops out or in to hopefully nail the set-up. Also use the basic set-ups that Darkside listed a few pages back.... good luck.