Kyosho Touring Car
#1682
parts
Who has alot of parts in stock for a tf-5 stallion ????????
#1683
Tech Addict
Do someone know TF5/Stallion spring rate?
There is 3 color, red, yellox and blue but no weight mentioned!
There is 3 color, red, yellox and blue but no weight mentioned!
#1684
I recently helped a friend build a TF-5 Stallion, and I have a few questions:
1- Did anybody notice the servo saver horn is much bigger than the one shown in the manual? When assembled as shown, the link was too high causing it to hit the chassis. The fix was moving the link to an inner hole.
2- Did anybody have problems with the tie-rod turnbuckles hitting the rearward alloy suspension block? We had to flip the outer ball connectors to the top of the hub carriers just to get the steering to work.
Needless to say, these issues were a little dissapointing.
1- Did anybody notice the servo saver horn is much bigger than the one shown in the manual? When assembled as shown, the link was too high causing it to hit the chassis. The fix was moving the link to an inner hole.
2- Did anybody have problems with the tie-rod turnbuckles hitting the rearward alloy suspension block? We had to flip the outer ball connectors to the top of the hub carriers just to get the steering to work.
Needless to say, these issues were a little dissapointing.
#1685
car
I did notice the servo saver hit the chassis but you have to shave the one side of the ball link if you look in the book it show how to do it ,also the droop is set way to low on your car you have to set it with the droop srews i had the same problem .it should fix the problem
#1686
I did notice the servo saver hit the chassis but you have to shave the one side of the ball link if you look in the book it show how to do it ,also the droop is set way to low on your car you have to set it with the droop srews i had the same problem .it should fix the problem
As for the droop, I thought it might be the same thing, so we tried using the Ron Atomic asphalt settings. Even with only that 4mm of droop (from pan up to control arm tip), we were unable to avoid contacting the control arm block. Even with the car resting at 5mm ride height (w/ new Take-Off RP30 tires) the turnbuckles still hit.
The car seems to drive brilliantly with the ball links on top of the knuckles. This did cause minimal contact between tie-rod & the sway bar though. We moved to the sway-bar ball ends inward to give better clearance, but they still barely touch at full steering lock. I imagine this will stiffen the front sway a little bit...
Keep in mind that I have no real experience with competition cars, so I can't say for sure if the car drives well or not...
#1687
Thanks for the info with the ball link, but I'm quite sure we shaved it as stated in the book. Once we moved the ball to the more inward position on the saver, all is fine. It still have tons of steering angle on the wheels. I'll give it another once over next time I inspect the car...
As for the droop, I thought it might be the same thing, so we tried using the Ron Atomic asphalt settings. Even with only that 4mm of droop (from pan up to control arm tip), we were unable to avoid contacting the control arm block. Even with the car resting at 5mm ride height (w/ new Take-Off RP30 tires) the turnbuckles still hit.
The car seems to drive brilliantly with the ball links on top of the knuckles. This did cause minimal contact between tie-rod & the sway bar though. We moved to the sway-bar ball ends inward to give better clearance, but they still barely touch at full steering lock. I imagine this will stiffen the front sway a little bit...
Keep in mind that I have no real experience with competition cars, so I can't say for sure if the car drives well or not...
As for the droop, I thought it might be the same thing, so we tried using the Ron Atomic asphalt settings. Even with only that 4mm of droop (from pan up to control arm tip), we were unable to avoid contacting the control arm block. Even with the car resting at 5mm ride height (w/ new Take-Off RP30 tires) the turnbuckles still hit.
The car seems to drive brilliantly with the ball links on top of the knuckles. This did cause minimal contact between tie-rod & the sway bar though. We moved to the sway-bar ball ends inward to give better clearance, but they still barely touch at full steering lock. I imagine this will stiffen the front sway a little bit...
Keep in mind that I have no real experience with competition cars, so I can't say for sure if the car drives well or not...
A picture is worht a thousand words so here you go...
#1688
pics
Those pics are very helpfull do you have more of you car curios on how you set up the elctronics ,please post if possible thanks
#1689
gearing
running a orion 10.5 with a 106 spur in the stallion any ideas for gearing ??/
#1690
I usually start around 5.0 final with a 10.5 orion
#1691
I haven't put the electronics in yet, waiting for a spool so in the meantime i'm still using the old car... Have to say I was impressed by the quality of the parts, virtually no slop and the machining is to higher tolerances than with Tamiya, can't wait to put it on the track...
#1693
pics
That looks nice what servo are you using ? i need to get a low profile servo,also are you using the 10.5 what pinnion are you using on that motor ??pinion,spur ???
#1694
pics
That looks nice what servo are you using ? i need to get a low profile servo,also are you using the 10.5 what pinnion are you using on that motor ??pinion,spur ???