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Old 01-01-2008, 07:47 PM   #1681
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Is anyone driving a Kyosho going to the Novak race besides me?
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Old 01-24-2008, 02:20 AM   #1682
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Who has alot of parts in stock for a tf-5 stallion ????????
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Old 01-24-2008, 08:29 AM   #1683
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Do someone know TF5/Stallion spring rate?

There is 3 color, red, yellox and blue but no weight mentioned!

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Old 01-24-2008, 11:03 AM   #1684
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I recently helped a friend build a TF-5 Stallion, and I have a few questions:

1- Did anybody notice the servo saver horn is much bigger than the one shown in the manual? When assembled as shown, the link was too high causing it to hit the chassis. The fix was moving the link to an inner hole.

2- Did anybody have problems with the tie-rod turnbuckles hitting the rearward alloy suspension block? We had to flip the outer ball connectors to the top of the hub carriers just to get the steering to work.

Needless to say, these issues were a little dissapointing.
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Old 01-24-2008, 11:13 AM   #1685
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I did notice the servo saver hit the chassis but you have to shave the one side of the ball link if you look in the book it show how to do it ,also the droop is set way to low on your car you have to set it with the droop srews i had the same problem .it should fix the problem
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Old 01-24-2008, 01:37 PM   #1686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ON A MISSION View Post
I did notice the servo saver hit the chassis but you have to shave the one side of the ball link if you look in the book it show how to do it ,also the droop is set way to low on your car you have to set it with the droop srews i had the same problem .it should fix the problem
Thanks for the info with the ball link, but I'm quite sure we shaved it as stated in the book. Once we moved the ball to the more inward position on the saver, all is fine. It still have tons of steering angle on the wheels. I'll give it another once over next time I inspect the car...

As for the droop, I thought it might be the same thing, so we tried using the Ron Atomic asphalt settings. Even with only that 4mm of droop (from pan up to control arm tip), we were unable to avoid contacting the control arm block. Even with the car resting at 5mm ride height (w/ new Take-Off RP30 tires) the turnbuckles still hit.

The car seems to drive brilliantly with the ball links on top of the knuckles. This did cause minimal contact between tie-rod & the sway bar though. We moved to the sway-bar ball ends inward to give better clearance, but they still barely touch at full steering lock. I imagine this will stiffen the front sway a little bit...

Keep in mind that I have no real experience with competition cars, so I can't say for sure if the car drives well or not...
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Old 01-24-2008, 02:52 PM   #1687
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Quote:
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Thanks for the info with the ball link, but I'm quite sure we shaved it as stated in the book. Once we moved the ball to the more inward position on the saver, all is fine. It still have tons of steering angle on the wheels. I'll give it another once over next time I inspect the car...

As for the droop, I thought it might be the same thing, so we tried using the Ron Atomic asphalt settings. Even with only that 4mm of droop (from pan up to control arm tip), we were unable to avoid contacting the control arm block. Even with the car resting at 5mm ride height (w/ new Take-Off RP30 tires) the turnbuckles still hit.

The car seems to drive brilliantly with the ball links on top of the knuckles. This did cause minimal contact between tie-rod & the sway bar though. We moved to the sway-bar ball ends inward to give better clearance, but they still barely touch at full steering lock. I imagine this will stiffen the front sway a little bit...

Keep in mind that I have no real experience with competition cars, so I can't say for sure if the car drives well or not...
It probably don't as you've added a TON of bump steer. 4mm droop isn't enough on this car. I've got Steen Graversen's Prague setup and the front droop is 6mm. With this setting there is no contact. You could probably go to 5mm of droop but any lower value will result in the turnbuckles touching the toe block. Also what you might want to do, and any Stallion owners for that matter, is to mount the balls on the steering knuckle upside down. What I've done is to put a screw through it with a nut on the other side to hold it tight on the steering knuckle. This nearly eliminates the bump steer built in the suspension.

A picture is worht a thousand words so here you go...
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Old 01-24-2008, 05:35 PM   #1688
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Those pics are very helpfull do you have more of you car curios on how you set up the elctronics ,please post if possible thanks
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Old 01-25-2008, 03:23 AM   #1689
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running a orion 10.5 with a 106 spur in the stallion any ideas for gearing ??/
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Old 01-25-2008, 08:28 AM   #1690
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I usually start around 5.0 final with a 10.5 orion
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Old 01-25-2008, 09:46 AM   #1691
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Quote:
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Those pics are very helpfull do you have more of you car curios on how you set up the elctronics ,please post if possible thanks
I haven't put the electronics in yet, waiting for a spool so in the meantime i'm still using the old car... Have to say I was impressed by the quality of the parts, virtually no slop and the machining is to higher tolerances than with Tamiya, can't wait to put it on the track...
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Old 01-25-2008, 04:28 PM   #1692
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here are some pics, receiver is under the top deck on its side
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Old 01-25-2008, 06:39 PM   #1693
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That looks nice what servo are you using ? i need to get a low profile servo,also are you using the 10.5 what pinnion are you using on that motor ??pinion,spur ???
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Old 01-25-2008, 06:39 PM   #1694
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That looks nice what servo are you using ? i need to get a low profile servo,also are you using the 10.5 what pinnion are you using on that motor ??pinion,spur ???
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Old 01-25-2008, 07:31 PM   #1695
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futaba 9550 low profile, its a 22t pinion but im using a 3.5 speed passion ,have to have a look what spur ,think its 104? with that pinion = 22mm roll out using rubbers
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