dirtman71

iTrader: (4)

Well I have an update

All is fantastic with my v1....had to miss racing for a couple of months but I fanaly got it on the track last Sunday. I ran in the novice 17.5, old gtb esc and ss17.5.
I lossend up the rear diff and that fixed all the issues. this thing stuck like glue. I am not an "onroad" guy but I love this car. I started out the first heat slow just to get a feel and at about the 3 min mark i realized how consistant the car was and i started to push it some more. finished in second with a 16 something, and the tq was 17 something.
By the second round I could feel my comfort coming in, and I started to tighten up my line and finished the second heat with the TQ of an 18 something...so I gained 2 laps
I was nervous for the main cause I was on the pole and starts are not my thing yet, I had a feeling I was going to get ran over. My car is quick, and fast, I just have to pull the trigger. Now through the 2 heats I never spun out, crashed, just a brush here and there on a rail. But like I thought in the main off the start in turn 2 I got clipped on the rear and into the wall, a few turns later, back into the wall(not hard). I got back into it and started running some good times and back into second. I knew my time was running out, and I could see 1st just a ways infont of me, all I had to do was get to the finish line before the buzzer to get that last lap in. Missed it by 2 sec. finished 2nd with a 17 6:02. The winner broke on the last lap...he could have drove it across but they walked it across, he got a 18 6:51....I missed it by that much
Win or not, I dont care....This was just fun. I am totaly happy with the car. It has way more handling than I can give it for the moment. i just need to get some more time behind the wheel. the fast guys in intemidiate were running 16-17 sec laps, and sportsman 15-16sec. I was running 19-20 sec and my lines were terrible so I think ther is plenty of room for improvment
thanks again for all the help
Curt

???E-Racer

iTrader: (3)

What are you guys running on gearing with a 17.5?
Also is a slipper required because my car doesnt have a slipper.
Maybe in onroad you dont have to run a slipper?

My Ta05 has a 70 tooth spur gear on it. I was thinking a 27 tooth pinion would be fine.
Some people are running 30 tooth pinion gears in onroad.

I rebuilt my car last night and put tamiya brand tugsten carbide diff balls in the rear. Boy that is one smooth diff.

My goal is to run it in vintage trans am this winter. Im so looking forward to it.

dirtman71

iTrader: (4)

I have a Novak SS 17.5 and Novak calls for a 3.5 final drive. I am running 64p gears, 88 spur and 51 pinion. That gives me a 3.88 final drive. For me the bottom has enough punch and plenty of top end. And I ha e never had motor temps over 115 degrees

Your 70 x 30 I think will be to short. You will have way to much bottom and not enough top end. Bottom end is nice for punch but if all it does is spin the tires then that's no good. Does your track have a lot of straights or is it more technical? It stinks to be 10' into a long straight and run out of gear
In on or off road there is no magic gear number. You always have to play to see what feels right for you and the track set up and conditions. Pick a starting point and go from there

dirtman71

iTrader: (4)

No slipper needed

???E-Racer

iTrader: (3)

OK cool. I kinda figured a slipper was required for offroad only.

A 70 tooth 48 pitch spur is as big as I can go. Any larger and the spur will be hitting the ground through the bottom of the chassis.
So I'll be running a bigger pinion then the 30 tooth.
I have to look but I may have a 36 tooth or larger for a 17.5 motor.
The motor and esc I'll be running is a 17.5 ballistic with Havok ss pro ESC.
But I may not run the Havok and just use my older GTB speed control.

The track is fairly small it's not gigantic. Just a bunch of sharp turns.
Im normally an offroad guy but im experimenting with onroad this winter.

Thanks for your help.

C&B RC

iTrader: (1)

17.5? VTA is 25.5 unless it's a local allowance. The GTB is fine. With a 25.5 we are gearing around 4.0 FDR but gear for your track and temp it. What surface? If it's carpet I can get you in the ballpark.

dirtman71

iTrader: (4)

If you want more top end you will need to go smaller than a 70t. Staying with a48p gears limits your ratios. a 70x36 might fit and give you a final drive of 4.3. That would be a good starting point. I run 64p gears and have been thinking of swithing to 48 just for longer life. I need to find a ratio that I am happy with and then find and convert it over to 48p as close as I can
If I wanted to convert my 64p ratio that I have now(3.88 final drive) 88x51 I need 48p gears of 66x38 = 3.9 or 65x38 = 3.84
Kimbro makes a 66t 48p
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...P?I=LXCBLP&P=8

and I know I found a few 65t like HPI

I am not a gearing expert, just pasing on the info that I have learned, always check the temps of your motor and esc to make sure they do not get to hot after any gear change. I try to keep all my temps under 130 but novak says they are good to 150-60 degrees. heat kills so keep them low. If you cant hold your motor for more than 3 secs its to hot

???E-Racer

iTrader: (3)

It is carpet, they change the track around so we can race onroad.
But usually its Corr Trucks on the carpet offroad.
They are allowing 17.5 motors, I know 25.5 is actual VTA rules.
A 25.5 you can probably gear way higher than a 17.5

All they do is move the jumps out so we can race onroad.

The 36 tooth is a no go, I cant get any set screws to fit inside.
So im stuck with a 27 tooth until I buy another pinion.
Im gonna try 70/27 it might be enough for this track.

+ YouTube Video

C&B RC

iTrader: (1)

ok carpet setup -I run on ozite low-med grip technical track one long side straight.

oil 40/30
springs yellow/red
front diff tight, rear a little looser
stock front roll center, rear 0.5mm shorter
shock tops in 1 hole both ends. rear bottom inside hole
longest camber links in front, 1 hole shorter in rear
camber -2
ride hieght 5mm
Full droop initially-set RH with droop screws backed out, check for tweak, tighten droop screws until bottom retainers just hold springs - no preload
If it pushes(remove front droop) 1/4 turn at a time until it settles.
If it's loose (remove rear droop) 1/4 turn at a time until the rear settles.
Works well for my style and track

???E-Racer

iTrader: (3)

I done some tinkering with my car last night. It's pretty close
to what your setup is. I found some blue springs and yellow springs
The yellow were way too hard I just stuck with the stock silver springs on the front. The Blue's were harder than stock but not as hard as the yellows were so I stuck them on the rear with the 40/30 weight shock oil you mentioned.
Knock on wood Im hoping this is better than what it was.

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

I just finished building my TA05. My 0.4 pitch 105T spur gear is on its way and I was wondering what the easiest way to swap out spur gears would be.
How do you guys do it?

Edit:

I did it by ...

1. undo one end of the turnbuckles.. f/r
2. unscrew diff covers on the bulkheads .. f/r
3. unscrew all four screws at the bottom of motor mount.
4. take both belts off from center pulley.
5. get the spur gear out by taking the center pulley shaft out after loosening the grub screw on the shaft.

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

What is the stock rear toe angle for ta05 v2?

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

2.5 degrees

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

Thx!

I am trying to make it steer more and gettIng that toe to 1° is one of the things I will try.
replacing the rear suspension arm pin holder should do it, right?

Edit:

if the rocker arms were designed differently, the front end would be a little bit softer and give the car more steering with stock set up.
the distance from the rocker arm's pivot point to the shock absorber ball joint is longer than the distance from the pivot to the push rod ball joint. If that ratio was the other way around, it would have worked better, IMO.

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

Why do my front tires show this kind of wear? How can I fix it? It is the right front that is especially bad.

TIA.