What are the most important tuning settings on a 10th TC?
#16
The most important setup adjustment is ROLL CENTER/ROLL AXIS !!! If they are not in the right ballpark, all the other settings won't mean a thing... The others are important, but not as important as these two.....
#17
Checking tweak on a touring car requires either a tweak station, or 4 digital scales.
The tweak station uses two levels, one front and one rear, to allow you to set the front and rear the same.
With the scales, what you are checking for is that the weight at the Left Front + Right Rear = Right Front + Left Rear.
I've heard some people say you can check tweak by lifting either the front or rear end from the middle of the chassis with a knife and seeing if the tires lift of the ground equally. This works well on pan cars, but doesn't with TC. The reason for this is TC cars have droop settings which will affect the down travel of each corner.
The tweak station uses two levels, one front and one rear, to allow you to set the front and rear the same.
With the scales, what you are checking for is that the weight at the Left Front + Right Rear = Right Front + Left Rear.
I've heard some people say you can check tweak by lifting either the front or rear end from the middle of the chassis with a knife and seeing if the tires lift of the ground equally. This works well on pan cars, but doesn't with TC. The reason for this is TC cars have droop settings which will affect the down travel of each corner.
#18
Checking tweak on a touring car requires either a tweak station, or 4 digital scales.
The tweak station uses two levels, one front and one rear, to allow you to set the front and rear the same.
With the scales, what you are checking for is that the weight at the Left Front + Right Rear = Right Front + Left Rear.
I've heard some people say you can check tweak by lifting either the front or rear end from the middle of the chassis with a knife and seeing if the tires lift of the ground equally. This works well on pan cars, but doesn't with TC. The reason for this is TC cars have droop settings which will affect the down travel of each corner.
The tweak station uses two levels, one front and one rear, to allow you to set the front and rear the same.
With the scales, what you are checking for is that the weight at the Left Front + Right Rear = Right Front + Left Rear.
I've heard some people say you can check tweak by lifting either the front or rear end from the middle of the chassis with a knife and seeing if the tires lift of the ground equally. This works well on pan cars, but doesn't with TC. The reason for this is TC cars have droop settings which will affect the down travel of each corner.
Also if the car is not tweaked and your weight balance left to right is within reason, similar spring preload should yield equal ride height left to right. If not, you got tweak.
#19
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
There are other sources of tweak including droop screws, springs, swaybars, and static weight distribution, and tricks for fixing all of them. It's all part of the learning process.
-Mike
#21
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
As an example...
No tweak:
/\
305g 305g
345g 345g
Tweaked:
/\
280g 330g
370g 305g
I'm surprised that some folks never check tweak. Obviously they are doing something within their maintenance process that clears up any tweak issues if the car never acts funny. Even if the chassis is square, a tweaked suspension will cause a car to pull to one side under acceleration and/or braking, as well as not handle symmetrically.
I'm fairly thorough as I check ride height, tweak, droop, camber and toe before EVERY RUN.
Back to topic...
#22
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
This is true. I think it's important to also notem (for those learning about tweak), that is is possible to have equal ride height and a flat chassis, yet have a tweaked suspension due to off balance pre-loads. Visa Versa, you can also have a flat chassis and no tweak (that is to say equal corner loads), yet have jacked up ride height.
#23
that trick I showed you with the square blocks, called droop blocks, under the chassis, was for checking whether the chassis itself is tweaked. Chassis tweak is usually fixed by loosenening the top deck.
There are other sources of tweak including droop screws, springs, swaybars, and static weight distribution, and tricks for fixing all of them. It's all part of the learning process.
-Mike
There are other sources of tweak including droop screws, springs, swaybars, and static weight distribution, and tricks for fixing all of them. It's all part of the learning process.
-Mike
#24
The most important tuning setting on any TC car, no matter brand or even size is.......You.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...on-thread.html
New commers always come to me and ask how can they make their car quicker. They bring it to me I put it on the setup board, I put the stnadard etup on it, usually the camber and toe are a bit out of whack (balance). I then tell them that once their consistancy gets below 1.0 then we can start adjusting the car. Amzingly they always go away and run quicker. Just because you can adjust something doesn't mean it will make it better!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...on-thread.html
New commers always come to me and ask how can they make their car quicker. They bring it to me I put it on the setup board, I put the stnadard etup on it, usually the camber and toe are a bit out of whack (balance). I then tell them that once their consistancy gets below 1.0 then we can start adjusting the car. Amzingly they always go away and run quicker. Just because you can adjust something doesn't mean it will make it better!
#25
Add radio settings to the list - it's very important to get the steering end-points set correctly for even throw.
Oh, and ignore EVERYTHING bertrand-blah-blah says... that is the best bit of advice you will read on RCTECH.
Oh, and ignore EVERYTHING bertrand-blah-blah says... that is the best bit of advice you will read on RCTECH.
#28
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
And just to throw in correct choice of shell if your racing mod.
Makes a BIG difference.....
Also combine it with the correct wing.
As a challenge to anyone,do a few laps,few quick ones....then take the wing off.
OMG y'all won't believe the difference (if you haven't tried it before).
Please don't crash and blame me !
Cheers
Tim
PS great thread Btw...
Makes a BIG difference.....
Also combine it with the correct wing.
As a challenge to anyone,do a few laps,few quick ones....then take the wing off.
OMG y'all won't believe the difference (if you haven't tried it before).
Please don't crash and blame me !
Cheers
Tim
PS great thread Btw...
#29
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Yes, even more simplified the corner loads opposite each other left to right should be equal or at least very close.
As an example...
No tweak:
/\
305g 305g
345g 345g
Tweaked:
/\
280g 330g
370g 305g
I'm surprised that some folks never check tweak. Obviously they are doing something within their maintenance process that clears up any tweak issues if the car never acts funny. Even if the chassis is square, a tweaked suspension will cause a car to pull to one side under acceleration and/or braking, as well as not handle symmetrically.
I'm fairly thorough as I check ride height, tweak, droop, camber and toe before EVERY RUN.
Back to topic...
As an example...
No tweak:
/\
305g 305g
345g 345g
Tweaked:
/\
280g 330g
370g 305g
I'm surprised that some folks never check tweak. Obviously they are doing something within their maintenance process that clears up any tweak issues if the car never acts funny. Even if the chassis is square, a tweaked suspension will cause a car to pull to one side under acceleration and/or braking, as well as not handle symmetrically.
I'm fairly thorough as I check ride height, tweak, droop, camber and toe before EVERY RUN.
Back to topic...
So basically,I think a good rule is weight distribution is a great guide,but not actually right for checking tweak.
What do you think?
Cheers
Tim
#30
....also , check shock rebound....
...these may tend to get overlooked, but during checking for tweak it can go unnoticed .Good luck.