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Old 11-07-2012, 02:15 PM   #16
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The most important setup adjustment is ROLL CENTER/ROLL AXIS !!! If they are not in the right ballpark, all the other settings won't mean a thing... The others are important, but not as important as these two.....
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Old 11-07-2012, 02:32 PM   #17
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Checking tweak on a touring car requires either a tweak station, or 4 digital scales.
The tweak station uses two levels, one front and one rear, to allow you to set the front and rear the same.
With the scales, what you are checking for is that the weight at the Left Front + Right Rear = Right Front + Left Rear.

I've heard some people say you can check tweak by lifting either the front or rear end from the middle of the chassis with a knife and seeing if the tires lift of the ground equally. This works well on pan cars, but doesn't with TC. The reason for this is TC cars have droop settings which will affect the down travel of each corner.
ah ok that makes sense.
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Old 11-07-2012, 02:32 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by jha07 View Post
Checking tweak on a touring car requires either a tweak station, or 4 digital scales.
The tweak station uses two levels, one front and one rear, to allow you to set the front and rear the same.
With the scales, what you are checking for is that the weight at the Left Front + Right Rear = Right Front + Left Rear.

I've heard some people say you can check tweak by lifting either the front or rear end from the middle of the chassis with a knife and seeing if the tires lift of the ground equally. This works well on pan cars, but doesn't with TC. The reason for this is TC cars have droop settings which will affect the down travel of each corner.
On a flat setup board its sometimes visible when you take the wheels off.

Also if the car is not tweaked and your weight balance left to right is within reason, similar spring preload should yield equal ride height left to right. If not, you got tweak.
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Old 11-07-2012, 02:55 PM   #19
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so basically you just put the chassis on the stand (with wheels hanging) and try to press corners to see if there is a wobble correct ?
that trick I showed you with the square blocks, called droop blocks, under the chassis, was for checking whether the chassis itself is tweaked. Chassis tweak is usually fixed by loosenening the top deck.

There are other sources of tweak including droop screws, springs, swaybars, and static weight distribution, and tricks for fixing all of them. It's all part of the learning process.

-Mike
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Old 11-07-2012, 03:05 PM   #20
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Tweak is more common with top plate chassis but not as much with tub chassis.
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Old 11-07-2012, 03:27 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jha07 View Post
With the scales, what you are checking for is that the weight at the Left Front + Right Rear = Right Front + Left Rear.
Yes, even more simplified the corner loads opposite each other left to right should be equal or at least very close.

As an example...

No tweak:

/\
305g 305g
345g 345g

Tweaked:

/\
280g 330g
370g 305g



I'm surprised that some folks never check tweak. Obviously they are doing something within their maintenance process that clears up any tweak issues if the car never acts funny. Even if the chassis is square, a tweaked suspension will cause a car to pull to one side under acceleration and/or braking, as well as not handle symmetrically.

I'm fairly thorough as I check ride height, tweak, droop, camber and toe before EVERY RUN.

Back to topic...
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Old 11-07-2012, 03:32 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by napoleon1981 View Post

Also if the car is not tweaked and your weight balance left to right is within reason, similar spring preload should yield equal ride height left to right. If not, you got tweak.

This is true. I think it's important to also notem (for those learning about tweak), that is is possible to have equal ride height and a flat chassis, yet have a tweaked suspension due to off balance pre-loads. Visa Versa, you can also have a flat chassis and no tweak (that is to say equal corner loads), yet have jacked up ride height.
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Old 11-07-2012, 03:52 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
that trick I showed you with the square blocks, called droop blocks, under the chassis, was for checking whether the chassis itself is tweaked. Chassis tweak is usually fixed by loosenening the top deck.

There are other sources of tweak including droop screws, springs, swaybars, and static weight distribution, and tricks for fixing all of them. It's all part of the learning process.

-Mike
ah yes, I remember. So I believe 90% of the time, after a crash or a hit, loosening the top deck would resolve the tweak right.
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Old 11-08-2012, 04:17 AM   #24
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The most important tuning setting on any TC car, no matter brand or even size is.......You.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...on-thread.html

New commers always come to me and ask how can they make their car quicker. They bring it to me I put it on the setup board, I put the stnadard etup on it, usually the camber and toe are a bit out of whack (balance). I then tell them that once their consistancy gets below 1.0 then we can start adjusting the car. Amzingly they always go away and run quicker. Just because you can adjust something doesn't mean it will make it better!
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Old 11-08-2012, 04:38 AM   #25
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Add radio settings to the list - it's very important to get the steering end-points set correctly for even throw.

Oh, and ignore EVERYTHING bertrand-blah-blah says... that is the best bit of advice you will read on RCTECH.
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:35 AM   #26
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Droop, Camber, Ride Height, and Roll Centers. Get these things close and you'll have a pretty good car to start.
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:29 AM   #27
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Droop, Camber, Ride Height, and Roll Centers. Get these things close and you'll have a pretty good car to start.
+1
Also paint the body shell red.......looks faaaaast!
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:36 AM   #28
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And just to throw in correct choice of shell if your racing mod.
Makes a BIG difference.....
Also combine it with the correct wing.
As a challenge to anyone,do a few laps,few quick ones....then take the wing off.
OMG y'all won't believe the difference (if you haven't tried it before).
Please don't crash and blame me !
Cheers
Tim
PS great thread Btw...
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:45 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Lessen View Post
Yes, even more simplified the corner loads opposite each other left to right should be equal or at least very close.

As an example...

No tweak:

/\
305g 305g
345g 345g

Tweaked:

/\
280g 330g
370g 305g



I'm surprised that some folks never check tweak. Obviously they are doing something within their maintenance process that clears up any tweak issues if the car never acts funny. Even if the chassis is square, a tweaked suspension will cause a car to pull to one side under acceleration and/or braking, as well as not handle symmetrically.

I'm fairly thorough as I check ride height, tweak, droop, camber and toe before EVERY RUN.

Back to topic...
I found this post very interesting,as I have had all four corners ok,but the car was tweaked when I throw it on my Hudy setup station,which I do in between runs.
So basically,I think a good rule is weight distribution is a great guide,but not actually right for checking tweak.
What do you think?
Cheers
Tim
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:55 AM   #30
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Default ....also , check shock rebound....

...these may tend to get overlooked, but during checking for tweak it can go unnoticed .Good luck.
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