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Old 12-05-2012, 07:05 AM   #106
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Default Diff nut problem, Screw too short

Some one posted this problem earlier ,I also have the same problem Screw on axle is not long enough.
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:15 AM   #107
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Default my new ride, showing the long top arm

Had 2 outings now and converted the top arm to long , made my own brace. The shell is a Sophia, I had it painted for last years IIC its scheme is vegas ,Uk and Usa. Painted by Alan Smallwood.It never got used as I got Ill and did not go.
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:17 AM   #108
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Default top arm conversion Brace

had to do an extra post as 5 photo limit, shows front brace made from a bit of chassis.Top arms spaced 2mm either side.
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:06 AM   #109
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When do you use short wheelbase, long wheelbase?
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:04 AM   #110
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When do you use short wheelbase, long wheelbase?
I think everyone is running the short wheelbase right now. The thought is that short wheelbase will turn better and have more weight on the nose for steering.

This is a very easy change that I will try tonight.

I also plan to:

Switch back to .018" front springs from .020".
Run 2mm longer upper arms.
Run a Tekin Speedo vs. my Hobbywing Justock

I blew up my Tekin and got the Juststock so I could race a few weekends ago. It has performed phenomenally well so far. It will be very interesting of there is no difference in lap times between the $50 HW and a $200 Tekin....
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:46 AM   #111
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Default short wheel base long wheel base

Im now on 4th WGT10 having had CRC, Xray and Serpent and on every one ive had long wheel base.
Might try short wheel base, my only reservations are the long wheel base makes the car very stable; Do I need more steering ????? I don't know as I have plenty
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:01 AM   #112
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I started with the short setting since I am running inline axles. They make the wheelbase ~4mm longer. I will try the mid and long settings though.

Walt and Maybell are running the short setting on their setups too and Walt is running the stock hubs/axles.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:16 AM   #113
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AdrianM,keep us posted about your lap times on the HW & Tekin spedo.
I also have always run Tekin
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:22 AM   #114
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Last night's testing:

Switch back to .018" front springs from .020".

For my track that does not have fast chicane left to right transitions the .018's were better.

Run 2mm longer upper arms.
I didn't go faster but I had more fast laps as a result of this change.

Run a Tekin RS Pro vs. Hobbywing Justock
I ran the Tekin in Q2 and the Main. I went up a tooth for these runs so I can't say if going faster was gearing or speedo. I was short on time last night so I will have to try them back to back with no other changes some other time.

My car is smooth, easy to drive and as long as I put it in the right places the lap times are right there. I have to say I let it down last night. I was too aggressive in Q2 and the A-main and paid for it with ugly runs...
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Old 12-06-2012, 06:03 PM   #115
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Originally Posted by RoyU View Post
When do you use short wheelbase, long wheelbase?
We used to run long wheel base setups out doors on the big track and then switched to short on our smaller carpet track. Tighter turns = short! Sweeping turns and long straights = long!
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Old 12-07-2012, 02:09 PM   #116
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Originally Posted by RCvetran View Post
Some one posted this problem earlier ,I also have the same problem Screw on axle is not long enough.
I have done some investigating on this issue. The axles are fine, the issue appears to be the thrust cone.

When the car was drawn they used a shorter cone, but that didn't get transfered onto the bill of materials so they used the "normal" 12th one. All kits from this point forward will include a second thrust cone that is shorter and will allow plenty of thread engagement.

If you interested the part number for the short cone is 4555.
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:45 PM   #117
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Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
I have done some investigating on this issue. The axles are fine, the issue appears to be the thrust cone.

When the car was drawn they used a shorter cone, but that didn't get transfered onto the bill of materials so they used the "normal" 12th one. All kits from this point forward will include a second thrust cone that is shorter and will allow plenty of thread engagement.

If you interested the part number for the short cone is 4555.
Great info Sean. Can those of us who purchased the new kit get a replacement cone?
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:30 PM   #118
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Default Cone

replacement is not some thing I can buy in the Uk. Is it possible to send me one Sean.
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:55 PM   #119
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Thumbs up Re...wide RC105

I picked up an RC105 which has been run a few times on carpet in WGT. Is there an aftermarket wide kit available as I would like to run it as a 235 car on asphalt next summer, and if there is will it take a 2s battery pack. We race on an 80' X 140' permanent asphalt surface prepped with sugar water. We race 10.5 motor limit and 2S battery. I currently use an RC10L2 but would like to try something different. Also is there an upgrade to the RC105.1 or do I need to get a complete car. Any help would be apprciated.

Thanks.
BE
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:12 PM   #120
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Originally Posted by THEBIGBULL View Post
I picked up an RC105 which has been run a few times on carpet in WGT. Is there an aftermarket wide kit available as I would like to run it as a 235 car on asphalt next summer, and if there is will it take a 2s battery pack. We race on an 80' X 140' permanent asphalt surface prepped with sugar water. We race 10.5 motor limit and 2S battery. I currently use an RC10L2 but would like to try something different. Also is there an upgrade to the RC105.1 or do I need to get a complete car. Any help would be apprciated.

Thanks.
BE
TJ
Look in the old 10r5 thread. People were doing there own modifications to run 2s packs. Pretty cool stuff if you got the skills. Dont think the 10r5.1 is adaptable but dont know for sure. Im pretty sure the some guys are working on ther own 2s mods on the 10r5.1. Just wait and see!
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