klaymon

iTrader: (71)

That's what I ran on a lower bite track. Works well.

bigtee

What's the best way of setting up steering on the t4 13. Iam using a 4pl radio and savox 1251 servo ? Search treads seems to be no clear cut way of doing it. The kit set up has you setting your throws high on expo either left or right in order to try to get even throws. I am also using hudy setup.it seem that I alway have more left then right left I can always get 25°+ and can't get the same on the right even with the expo max .can I get some help please? Thanks. Also using a Kimbrou servo saver. Some guys are saying i need the xrays.

erchn

iTrader: (7)

I'm not positive which Kimbrough servo saver is in use here, but typically the steering link just needs to be raised higher. You can accomplish this by moving the link to the inside or outside hole and then rotating the servo saver so that hole is above the servo spline when centered. This should get you more throw.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I'm looking for a little setup help. I'm running the T4 in VTA, on VTA tires, on medium to high grip indoor carpet. I started with the kit carpet setup and I changed the following

* 2 degrees rear toe in, 1/2 degrees front toe out
* 1* camber front and rear
* 40wt AE oil front and back
* Xray springs, 2.9 front, 2.7 back
* Front shocks moved in 1 hole on the top (so laid down one hole)
* Rear diff 3K AE fluid, mounted in the upper position
* Front diff 1.5 million fluid, mounted in the upper position
* Droop set to 7mm front and rear on the Hudy droop gauge, which is around 3mm rear and 2.5 front droop or so
* 5mm ride height front and back, car detweaked with spring preload adjustments
* Spec-r top deck, center post with screw, no screws through spur carrier (2014 upgraded)
* +1mm front hexes, though the front wheels still rub on the front of the arms at high turn angles and under suspension load.
* 1456g total weight

The car feels ok but I noticed a few things. It has a LOT of initial turn-in, and sometimes it digs in and spins the rear around if I'm not careful. Furthermore, it feels like the car continues to steer after I start to straighten the steering input, so it'll stay turned in further past the apex than I think I'm giving it input for. But it does transition quickly from left to right in chicanes and such.

I think it basically has a bit too much steering, if I'm reading this correctly. What are some of my options? Also, does anything seem off for a VTA setup?

chasingthepack

1mm front toe out and remove ackerman shims,shock mount in hole 2,that should stop it hooking mid corner

daleburr

The Kimboro servo savers are too short, you need the Xray servo saver to get full lock. The Xray servo saver is also loads stronger and more consistent.

chasingthepack

start again,center the servo,set epa to 120 each way,make sure dual rate is at 100% ,attach saver in vertical position mount turnbuckle in the top center hole and then adjust epa so you just get full lock each way ,the 6mm post on the steering rack is your lock stop not at the knuckles,on the outer wheel when on the set up board you should have 24/25 degrees of throw,of course this depends on toe out and ackerman settings ,so just look to have the same throw each way , the most vital part is that the left and right turn buckles are exactly the same length
when all done drive the car in circles each way you should then have the same turning circle each way

Troy Carter

iTrader: (22)

I don't run VTA so...grain of salt here.


I would go after a softer shock package. I know VTA cars are heavy but I would go down to 35f/32.5r and drop back to a lighter spring. 2.7f/2.5r or 2.5's all around. The thick fluid combined with stiff springs make the car too twitchy at initial turn in for me.

mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

Depending on the track the VTA tires may not work great on carpet. When I ran VTA it was a pain trying to get the tires to hook on carpet. I had a similar scenario with my foam tire 17.5 car. I would not add any more toe out inthe front. You could even take it away. Front toe out gives you more initial turn in, which it sounds like you don't want. I run 0 toe in front. Also more front camber will give increased steering, so only run .5-1° Negative camber to reduce steering. Your shocks are pretty stiff. But the stiffer the front the less weight will be transferred to the front, reducing grip. Since you are already very stiff, I would try softening the rear of the car. Also try raising the front ride height. I run 6mm front 5mm rear. I recently had a problem with the rear sliding a little mid corner to exit, with too much exit steering making the car squirly. I took the 4 rear screws out of the top deck, and 2 of the front screws. Left the 4 on the spur bulkhead in. No post. It was very responsive to the changes, and helped immensely.

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

I was talking with a fellow racer who owns a machine shop with a CNC machine. We are toying around with the idea of making an aluminum chassis in the style of the one that was released for the 2014.

There are a number of users who have reported the aluminum chassis has improved their cars drivability and lap times.

Just wondering who would be interested in one for the 2013.

You can PM me if you are interested. We wouldn't make them until a large enough group was interested and then we would most likely require a deposit of some kind.

Anyways, PM me if an aluminum chassis is something you would be interested in for the '13 model.

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

To clarify a bit. I first want to see how much interest there is. The more people interested the cheaper the product will be. If there is little interest than the cost per chassis will be higher and make the project a useless endeavor. Kinda like my aluminum shelf idea. Great idea but not enough people willing to pull the trigger, the end result was a pricy product that was difficult to sell.

I will base the pricing off of what kinda interest there is.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

It appears I already didn't have any ackerman shims (bought the T4 used), and my front shocks are already in hole #2 (rear are in hole #3). I can increase the toe out a bit, but how does that aid mid-corner?

Yeah, I can try going softer all around, I thought about that. I've moved over from a Spec-R and the T4 just feels a lot different. Better overall, I'd say, just trying to understand the corner behavior.

Right, I always understood toe out to give you more initial turn-in. I'm thinking it may also be contributing to the car continuing to steer a bit past where I feel I'm guiding it. I haven't tried playing with the upper deck at all, I can give that a go as well.

Thanks for the tips

chasingthepack

itll remove enough steering to smooth out the corner because the outer wheel wont turn in as much,if you have no shims then try 1 or 1.5 toe out
after that i would look to raise the front roll center

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

One more question... do you guys have a preferred bearing brand? I replaced my bearings with an AVID "Revolution" bearing kit, and although they are butter smooth, there is a lot of play in them which causes more slop. The Xray bearings seem tighter but not too durable. Do you guys go with Fast Eddy, Boca or anything like that to keep the slop at a minimum?

mac853

Dear Reflex chassis or Spec-R R1 users:

The pivot mounts are too tight to put those suspension mount inserts.
Could somebody teach me or share me your "specific" method to change them.

Could anybody tell me your inserts setup, please?

best regards