2LikesXray T4 '13
06-19-2013, 03:28 PM
#4201
as the 2.3/2.6 are slightly stiffer than the 2.6/2.8 which ones did you use?theres too much misleading info flying around the pits,ill give it a go this weekend,as i think a few are at west london so ill use this weekend to do some thorough testing
06-19-2013, 06:34 PM
#4202
Hi got heaps of xray t4 parts for sale at cheap prices pm me if you want a list
06-19-2013, 07:35 PM
#4203
RSD asphalt springs!!! Way better
06-20-2013, 01:41 AM
#4204
Thanks guys for the info. Now I understand gear diff oil setup a lot easier.
I don't think I will want to slow the front end of the car down too much as I do like a car that changes direction well, as long as the change of direction doesnt cause grip roll (i'll use 42/40 tyres which is what would be a usual tyre compound for my local club and kit springs to start with).
And I must open my eyes a bit more with finding the gear oil - I dont usually need to buy too much in the way of rc stuff and have only ever supported my local rc shop (rc-direct) who recently closed, hence my "where do I get r/c stuff from that i've never purchased before" moment...
Ty chasingthepack - i'll get the brand of gear oil you suggest, should needs must
As for the front differential - yes sorry if I didn't already mention it, i'll be getting one as an extra at the same time as getting the car as I race on foams and need the extra rotation up front that a diff gives.
I don't think I will want to slow the front end of the car down too much as I do like a car that changes direction well, as long as the change of direction doesnt cause grip roll (i'll use 42/40 tyres which is what would be a usual tyre compound for my local club and kit springs to start with).
And I must open my eyes a bit more with finding the gear oil - I dont usually need to buy too much in the way of rc stuff and have only ever supported my local rc shop (rc-direct) who recently closed, hence my "where do I get r/c stuff from that i've never purchased before" moment...
Ty chasingthepack - i'll get the brand of gear oil you suggest, should needs must
As for the front differential - yes sorry if I didn't already mention it, i'll be getting one as an extra at the same time as getting the car as I race on foams and need the extra rotation up front that a diff gives.
06-20-2013, 09:02 PM
#4206
I’m not sure about very low grip, but to give you a local benchmark, I ran my T4 at the Challenge Cup at Castle Hill a couple of weeks ago.
I ran the kit set-up as shown in the set-up sheet for asphalt that has 1mm shims for the inner camber links front and rear. The only difference was that I had 2mm bump steer on the steering knuckles, not 4mm.
My car has the graphite arms front and rear and ECS up front.
Tyres- I started with Muchmore Absolute VPM32C – the old SMA Staple. The second heat I changed to the new Muchmore Rush 36XC and found I could hold a much tighter line through the sweeper with those, which gave a better entry to the chicane – 1 extra lap. The 36XC was the handout tyre at the recent Muchmore Masters and were well received by all classes.
The car was terrific at The Hill – I was the limiting factor. It was pretty close racing, if you check out the fastest single lap times you will see there is less than 1 second across the first 21 drivers in Blinky.
At Riverstone a month earlier I used Ride Blue RE28. The inside of that old brick building is as cold as a Mother-In-Law’s Kiss, and I learned that the locals run 25’s. The Ride Blues are quite light as they contain open cell foam inserts and I was actually under-weight. They pereformed fine but wore quickly.
Most find the Mazda 6 a little easier to drive with the LTC-R a bit sharper (faster).
Hopefully this might give you a reference point.
Cheers,
Brent
06-20-2013, 09:46 PM
#4207
Mate,
I’m not sure about very low grip, but to give you a local benchmark, I ran my T4 at the Challenge Cup at Castle Hill a couple of weeks ago.
I ran the kit set-up as shown in the set-up sheet for asphalt that has 1mm shims for the inner camber links front and rear. The only difference was that I had 2mm bump steer on the steering knuckles, not 4mm.
My car has the graphite arms front and rear and ECS up front.
Tyres- I started with Muchmore Absolute VPM32C – the old SMA Staple. The second heat I changed to the new Muchmore Rush 36XC and found I could hold a much tighter line through the sweeper with those, which gave a better entry to the chicane – 1 extra lap. The 36XC was the handout tyre at the recent Muchmore Masters and were well received by all classes.
The car was terrific at The Hill – I was the limiting factor. It was pretty close racing, if you check out the fastest single lap times you will see there is less than 1 second across the first 21 drivers in Blinky.
At Riverstone a month earlier I used Ride Blue RE28. The inside of that old brick building is as cold as a Mother-In-Law’s Kiss, and I learned that the locals run 25’s. The Ride Blues are quite light as they contain open cell foam inserts and I was actually under-weight. They pereformed fine but wore quickly.
Most find the Mazda 6 a little easier to drive with the LTC-R a bit sharper (faster).
Hopefully this might give you a reference point.
Cheers,
Brent
I’m not sure about very low grip, but to give you a local benchmark, I ran my T4 at the Challenge Cup at Castle Hill a couple of weeks ago.
I ran the kit set-up as shown in the set-up sheet for asphalt that has 1mm shims for the inner camber links front and rear. The only difference was that I had 2mm bump steer on the steering knuckles, not 4mm.
My car has the graphite arms front and rear and ECS up front.
Tyres- I started with Muchmore Absolute VPM32C – the old SMA Staple. The second heat I changed to the new Muchmore Rush 36XC and found I could hold a much tighter line through the sweeper with those, which gave a better entry to the chicane – 1 extra lap. The 36XC was the handout tyre at the recent Muchmore Masters and were well received by all classes.
The car was terrific at The Hill – I was the limiting factor. It was pretty close racing, if you check out the fastest single lap times you will see there is less than 1 second across the first 21 drivers in Blinky.
At Riverstone a month earlier I used Ride Blue RE28. The inside of that old brick building is as cold as a Mother-In-Law’s Kiss, and I learned that the locals run 25’s. The Ride Blues are quite light as they contain open cell foam inserts and I was actually under-weight. They pereformed fine but wore quickly.
Most find the Mazda 6 a little easier to drive with the LTC-R a bit sharper (faster).
Hopefully this might give you a reference point.
Cheers,
Brent
Many thanks for your tips
That 11.5 I got off you two months ago went like a beauty, I just threw the electrics in & ran it... haven't touched it since but if I'm lucky will give it a run tonight
Hope to catch you soon
Jim
06-21-2013, 10:39 PM
#4208
Well, I finally got the car together. Smooth built, apart from bad threads on one of forward-facing steering ball studs. I ghetto'd it together with some parts from my pit box. 
The weight, weight balance, and damping are all much different from my Mi4CXL. It should be interesting when I get it on track. Hoping to shake it down tomorrow if I can bum a spur off someone.
Did the body post holes change from the T3?
-Mike
The weight, weight balance, and damping are all much different from my Mi4CXL. It should be interesting when I get it on track. Hoping to shake it down tomorrow if I can bum a spur off someone.
Did the body post holes change from the T3?
-Mike
06-22-2013, 01:09 AM
#4210
Try the Smokem racing product chassis T4MX it's 2.25mm thick and only 69.00. I am using one and I am very happy with it.
. if anyone is interested. I have it set up for VTA currently. I'll have more details soon.
06-22-2013, 03:07 PM
#4215
Re CSO chassis
I broke a T4 Chassis and fitted the 2.2 mill Chassis it went to gether well and works fine .