2LikesXray T4 '13
06-03-2013, 01:48 AM
#3931
Tech Adept
What do most people do to reduce weight on there T4, how much does the titanium bolt set save?
06-03-2013, 02:21 AM
#3932
Tech Adept
The weight u save from screws and other items off the car are nothing compared to having light electrics. Some lipis's are over 30 grams different, motors 10-11 grams servo's 10-15 grams
U can never save this amount no matter what u change!
U can never save this amount no matter what u change!
06-03-2013, 05:14 PM
#3934
Originally Posted by TT_Vert
I thought I saw this before in this thread or forum but searching I cannot find it. What is gained/lost when spacing the upper shock away from the tower and the lower from the arm?
Thanks
Dave
I thought I saw this before in this thread or forum but searching I cannot find it. What is gained/lost when spacing the upper shock away from the tower and the lower from the arm?
Thanks
Dave
Code:
To make the car more stable and easier to drive, move the front shocks forward. Stability increases mainly in chicanes. Note that the car will have less steering into corners. • Upper mount (shock tower): Add a plastic nut and use a longer screw 3x8mm (NOT INCLUDED) to move the upper end of the shock away from the shock tower. • Lower mount (lower arm): Add shims and use a longer setscrew 3x10mm (NOT INCLUDED) on the lower arms to move the lower end of the shock away from the arm.
Code:
To make the car more stable and easier to drive, move the rear shocks rearward. Stability increases mainly in chicanes. Note that the car will have less steering into corners. • Upper mount (shock tower): Add a plastic nut and use a longer screw 3x8mm (NOT INCLUDED) to space the upper end of the shock away from the shock tower. • Lower mount (lower arm): Add shims and use a longer setscrew 3x10mm (NOT INCLUDED) on the lower arms to space the lower end of the shock away from the arm.
06-03-2013, 06:17 PM
#3936
In the rear add 2mm on bottom of the shock
I use it in the front only on carpet, it feels less responsive on asphalt
06-03-2013, 06:18 PM
#3937
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Quite often you'll find cars with just a 2mm spacer on the top of the front shocks only. This is done to help keep the shock vertical. The front shocks tend to lean backwards slightly without these spacers present.
That's the only time you'd ever shim the shocks different at the top and bottom - rest of the time you'd match the same number of spacers on the top and bottom of the shocks - unless you alter the wheelbase of course
That's the only time you'd ever shim the shocks different at the top and bottom - rest of the time you'd match the same number of spacers on the top and bottom of the shocks - unless you alter the wheelbase of course
06-03-2013, 06:21 PM
#3938
No... The point is to make the stocks more linear base on the placement of the arm. So set the car with out tires on a setup board, and shim the top or bottom to get the stocks in an up and down line. Normally based on the setup sheets you run 3mm in the bottom rear and 2mm on the upper front, but if you change the wheel base this will not apply.... What your trying to remove is any angle from top to bottom the stocks may be when mounted with out shims... If you have some OCD like me, you will turn off the lights and use a laser level.....
06-03-2013, 06:23 PM
#3939
I've never shimmed the rear but there was a post saying that 2mm on the bottom Orr the rear will straighten it out. The front does lean in on top. Sometimes the bottom of the rear leans in depending on where the rear arms are located
06-04-2013, 01:03 AM
#3940
I'm very interested in getting a T4.
But I will be racing it with foams and a front differential due to the nature of the track. (carpet, very small technical track, a spool isnt suited to it) so I have a few questions so I am 99.9% sure I will need additional parts from the start.
1) Can anyone tell me if 30mm wide foams will fit? (no big deal if they do not).
2) Can anyone confirm the part numbers needed for a front diff (and I am assuming I will need a packet of driveshaft sleeves too?)
I think the #s are
304900 and 305241
3) Are there any particular build tips not mentioned in the manual that are worth noting?
Many thanks!
But I will be racing it with foams and a front differential due to the nature of the track. (carpet, very small technical track, a spool isnt suited to it) so I have a few questions
so I am 99.9% sure I will need additional parts from the start.1) Can anyone tell me if 30mm wide foams will fit? (no big deal if they do not).
2) Can anyone confirm the part numbers needed for a front diff (and I am assuming I will need a packet of driveshaft sleeves too?)
I think the #s are
304900 and 305241
3) Are there any particular build tips not mentioned in the manual that are worth noting?
Many thanks!
Reposting in the hope someone can help, many thanks
06-04-2013, 02:07 AM
#3941
Were there no competitive stock T4's at the reedy race? I know the top 3 guys were fast. 2 awesomatix and 1 ARC. I don't wanna buy the car of the week. I ask because I didn't see the usual names for fast guys in 17.5. I really like my T4
06-04-2013, 02:51 AM
#3942
06-04-2013, 04:55 AM
#3943
Without searching all the set up sheets, what tires do people run on carpet these days?
BTW, we run foams here in Australia, but I think our surface is like nothing else around the world and rubbers just don't cut it. And no, generally 30mm won't fit.
BTW, we run foams here in Australia, but I think our surface is like nothing else around the world and rubbers just don't cut it. And no, generally 30mm won't fit.
06-04-2013, 05:56 AM
#3944
FOr the temps you'd get in Oz, probably need a 36RY or even 40
Skiddins
06-04-2013, 06:11 AM
#3945
Sweep 32's
Solaris med
The sweeps last forever and perform well until its time to,throw them away.
The Solaris tires don't last as long but pretty much the same performance wise.
I like the look of the Solaris better