TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

Does anyone have an issue with weepy shock seals? After every race day I find the bottom of the shock seal area damp as well as the spring cup. The car isn't more than a few races old.

Thanks
Dave

Lycan

iTrader: (1)

Thicker rear diff oils will solve some of those issues - try around 1500cst.
And maybe remove progressive springs and try a linear one in the rear... 2.5 maybe.
Front gear diff will make car a bit easier to drive.

blwaz23

Does xray make a oval car?

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

Or of curiousty which issues do you think the thicker diff fluid will correct?

Dave

Lycan

iTrader: (1)

On power rear traction. Will help equal the rotation of the both rear wheels forcing the diff to push the car forward.
Check out Hagberg's setup for low traction asphalt - http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...D=240&setup=t4
3k in rear diff.
Its definitely worth trying.

dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

I'm in the same boat here, exactly the same problems in all the same areas. The slower the speed, the worse the corner exit oversteer is. The car looks like its diffing out, loses all forward drive and spins inner rear.

I will admit I haven't tried 2k rear diff oil on a medium size track yet. Only small tracks. This makes the understeer worse and does nothing for the on power oversteer. Setup helps with drivability a bit, and I can drive around the problem, but it does nothing for improving the laptimes.

Things I have found to help are:

1mm shims under the inner ball studs
1.3mm bars front and rear (need to try 1.4 front and rear)
5.4 front droop
4.4 rear droop
(any less droop ie 6f 5r = diffing out)
Foam bits in the shock caps

This makes the car driveable, not fast. I still get left behind on tight corners.

I will either try a 2mm chassis or get a new car and get my friend to build it. I swear that guy has magic fingers. Everytime he builds a new car they are fast. Everytime I build a new car, slow

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

Here's my .02, sounds like a droop issue to me. Try more front droop, it'll transfer more weight rearward on power (better corner exit) plus allow the front to roll more in high speed corners (more front grip). I never seem to get too far from 5 front and rear measured on Hudy blocks. It's worth a try...JMO.

BTW: I've ran my T4's with short upper links quite a bit too. For me, the increased camber gain sharpens the overall handling significantly... Worth a try if you car is feeling lazy.

Team_Krusty

iTrader: (3)

What ackerman are u running? Got any shims on your bell crank? Try adding 1 or 2 mm shims here and see if that helps with the push problem. I'd maybe even try the rear shocks more upright.

Regards,

Simon

niemand

Wow thats a lot of input guys.
Thanks to all of you. I will try as much of all those suggestions as I can the next time I'm on the track.

I'll need to order some parts to do that but definitely going to give it a shot.


I do that every run so I doubt thats the issue here.

Strangely the harder rear diff oil made it worse last time I tried it.
Front gear diff may be worth a shot, although most people tend to only run it in modified classes.

I'll send your friend a kit of mine to build
However my car was insanely fast on carpet. So I hope its not the car itself.
I kinda doubt my car is diffing out, its doing the same as if it would diff out but it just feels different. But I'll give it a shot to know for sure.
Let me know if your new car or the 2mm chassis do any good when you get them.

I'll definitely play around with droop.
My upperlinks are in the middle position (front) and outer = short in the rear. The car is plenty agile. It just doesnt have any significant grip compared to other cars running with me.Altough I managed to win at the last club meeting (but i was more drifting and sliding around than actually driving).

Thanks to all you guys again. I'll keep you posted on my progress.
Regards,
David

niemand

I'm running 1mm Ackermann atm. A mate of mine tried adding more but didnt like it that much. The problem at the track is that at high speed there is merely a difference between the steering being on full lock or not steering at all. Thats how much understeer we have to fight with
I really liked my car through the technical section of the track with my current shock position compared to the kit positions. More upright shocks in the rear made the mid corner understeer nearly unbearable but maybe it works together with leaning the front shocks in more.
Maybe the front end was just too hard all along.

Wasn't there a mod involving the springtension nuts(dont know the proper term) to run HPI springs?
Any thoughts on using HPI silver/silver or pink/silver instead of Xray springs?

Regards
David

hotrod1933

iTrader: (8)

Just a stupid suggestion. have you tried different tires. i hate my car on rides but is good on muchmores. or even blue rides a lot of locals use blues on asphalt.

dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

I haven't gotten to ackermann yet. I will try that next, as geometry and springs has done very little to the car.

I have tried different tyres. The car handles the same on Rides, Muchmores and Panaracers. It was at its fastest on the Ride 32 LT, but the handling was the same.

niemand

Nope haven't done that yet.
Ride 32 (red) are the only tire we allow for our club races, so there's no use of other tires being better. And the blue Ride are only allowed for indoor races.
So I'm stuck with the red Ride tires.
The TRF teamdriver's car i spoke of before somehow drives almost like on rails with those tires so there's gotta be something I can do to make my car drive better.

Regards
David

defcone

iTrader: (15)

What's your tire prep?

niemand

Clean tires with motorspray or similar.
Reglue if neccessary.
Sauce tires 30min before the run with LRP Top Traction, AME MBT Asphalt or CS Max Grip.
Heat to 60°C (for 30 minutes).

Tried not cleaning them with motorspray but that didn't help much.
Old tires (10+ runs) seem to be working better than new tires for many Xray drivers here.

Regards,
David