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Old 03-27-2016, 12:19 PM
  #3856  
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id set it up similar to a tamiya if your looking for advice. but the base setup works pretty well then just make a single change at at time. t4 setup is very good for a t4 out of the box but spec r has different geometries and doesnt work quite the same. materials are different as well.

there is actually quite a lot of interest in the s2 platform but not so much in the r1/2 for sure. i guess thats part of why the car is so cheap. very small development team and race team that only seems to opperate in china. there isnt really anything wrong with that. but its not ideal to limit your engineering input from only top level racing drivers. I think a company like xray has data from the broad range of skill levels so when you open the box, the car will work for anyone.

I almost wish i kept my r2 though. we run endurance races twice/year for 3 hrs each and i dont want to put my t4 into that. i might have to pick up an s2 just for the purpose. but there is also the BT4 which comes in around the same price and has better aftermarket parts support.

I dont think the problems people have had with the spec r platform was what damned it so much. more the lack of parts.. apparently c hubs are out of stock just about everywhere heh
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:14 PM
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No C hubs what is our options IF any?
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:16 PM
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Sakura xi c-hubs will fit. So will xray ones.
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Old 03-27-2016, 03:05 PM
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THANKS! :-)

Was thinking xray would fit, just didn't want order bits that won't fit.
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Old 03-27-2016, 04:28 PM
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xray ones will NOT. spec r uses 2.5mm hingpins for the outer carriers. xray is 3mm. tamiya works for sure but are glass. if tamiya has a composite as in non graphite option that is fairly rigid, id consider that the best. though there are tamiya aluminum options. that will allow you to continue using spec r steering blocks, or move to tamiya ect. xray steering blocks will work but will require shimming as the whole xray platform is lower.

some people ahve claimed to use associated parts, which id get behind for part support. there is also yokomo which are very similar to tamiya ect. the best way is to run all yokomo/tamiya arms, chubs, steering blocks, but the shimming of the wheelbase wouldnt really allow for that if the arm sweep is too high. one of the reasons xray ones arent really servicable.

im sure you could ream out arms to accept xray hubs but ill bet you will never ever get them straight. maybe if you set up a jig in a drillpress you could get them kinda close..
it would not surprise me if 3racing parts drop right in. i wouldn't expect better of the plastic though.

this is kind of one of the reasons i jumped though. my r2 was very fast but i had to get creative when parts support was low. i dont think the xray was worth twice as much money... but its been consistant and i only just broke a steering block a month in.

having the hard xray bumper really makes it better. though id almost suggest you get the NT1 bumper for wider protection up front.
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Old 03-27-2016, 04:38 PM
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Yeah, I've got a 2 race day old R2 that I'm a bit nervous on maintaining, thinking I might sell it soon and go the XRay route unless I see some solid examples with pics showing how to make other brands of parts compatible with the R2.
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Old 03-27-2016, 04:44 PM
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its tough... i only got $250/cdn for my r2 with an alu chassis... you really cant sell them and expect to get anymoney back from them.
your better off just running it til you can afford to buy a better one, and keep it as a second car. i wish i kept my r2 for enduros.. its waaaaaay better than an s2, even with hopups.

after thinking about it a bit more, it wouldnt really be a big deal to adapt spec r arms to take xray c hubs. you would need to buy two ECS chubs, two hard xray steering blocks and a pair of front outer hingpins. the chub is shorter than the spec r by like 3mm. so you woul dhave to adjust your upper arm angles to suit. it would also change the effect of your droop and arm mounting with this change as the axle will sit lower than it normally does.

but id say get a few hard spec r arms, build a simple drill press jig and drill the pin hole bigger. i suppose you could just use a longer set screw with the xray one.. tahts kinda ghetto but would definitely WORK.

the problem though is you just spent $50 going to an xray front end lol.

again. my r2 was very fast. i wouldnt give up on it super quickly.
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Old 03-27-2016, 04:50 PM
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hmm, good ideas there... I'll have to think it over, when I bought the car not too long ago I first checked to see that at least a dozen different distributors carried parts which gave me comfort on investing in the brand with what seemed like plenty of parts in stock, only to learn that they are experiencing parts support issues now is alarming... makes me wonder if they're already out of business and just waiting to be bought out by HobbyKing or RCMart next?
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Old 03-27-2016, 05:31 PM
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spec r has made pretty good quality hop ups for some many years. I doubt they are out of business but who knows. I personally hope not as id like to not pay $65 usd for additional difs...

I really hope they continue with the r platform. The divide from entry level to race spec is kinda stupid. Racing 17.5 touring car should not cost $500+ just to get into. There are a food number of $400 kits sure, but the r2 was a $300 kit with all the same shit the $600 ones have. Setup properly was easily competitive with them.
Fix the parts support issue, get some bloody team support and i dont see any reason it should fail.
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Old 03-27-2016, 05:33 PM
  #3865  
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Oh and let me be clear. Team support does not mean a handful of big aces at big international events. Support fast drivers at the grassroots level who actually have a direct impact marketing your shit.
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Old 03-27-2016, 09:37 PM
  #3866  
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Tamiya 51293 fit and 54580 works well with the double joint cvds 1 mm shim needed one the hinge pin
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:40 AM
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Looking at Sakura xi parts, haven't ordered any just at the top of the list.

===

spec r uses 2.5mm hingpins for the outer carriers. xray is 3mm. <<< GREAT info saves me some headaches.

===

Have looked at AE, had a TC4 and the c-hubs didn't work for me. Looking at TC7, the steering uses the same bearing sizes as the Spec-R.The steering link mounts are very diff, but maybe doable! LHS doesn't have any parts for the TC7 yet.

Not knowing any diff, any brand of c-hub >> the steering arms need to work also.
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Old 03-28-2016, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris_morrison
Tamiya 51293 fit and 54580 works well with the double joint cvds 1 mm shim needed one the hinge pin
I'll give these a shot, thanks!
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Old 03-29-2016, 07:41 AM
  #3869  
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Well at least my post woke some people up in here. I'm not jumping ship yet. Just had a bad putting with a second hand r2 that needed more maintenance attention than I realized. I've got plenty of spares, haven't broken anything in 3 race weekends/4 classes between r1 and r2. If you want an r2 again valk, I bought mine and it came with the rsd aluminum chassis I switched out for the carbon one. If I can't find the time to get back out often enough I might put it up for sale
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Old 03-29-2016, 11:22 AM
  #3870  
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we will see when closer to enduro season. There are lots of s2's available to snatch as well. Depending who is on my enduro team i might just put my xray in. If it wins the trophy race the day before almost certainly we will run it
It might be worth my while to economically induce someone locally to upgrade haha.
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