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Old 11-13-2017, 08:11 PM
  #1141  
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Originally Posted by Lord_Darkhelmet View Post
I'm having trouble getting the car to be smooth and less twitchy. I have changed the car to run a transverse battery by using the pivot assembly and upper deck from a 12r6. Only other change is the shock, using a one from a 12r6.

We run on CRC black carpet and I'm using the CRC spec tire. The car is not easy to drive and likes to lift the rear inner wheel. Its so responsive just breathing on the steering makes it react hard.

I have tried a soft setup like Keven H but it seems to make it even more aggressive. Soft side springs and heavy tube lube (20k) make the rear wheel lift problem even worse. I was running the dynamic caster block at 10deg and changed it to 5deg, this was the only adjustment which made the car somewhat easy to drive. I have no idea why a soft rear setup is not helping. A fellow racer has a CRC car running soft setup and the car is super smooth to drive.

Attached is my current setup that is somewhat driveable. I hope someone can see something I missed. The only thing I was thinking was to remove the 1mm lower arm spacer and make the front end narrower. I have also tried a high amount of steering expo and turning down the dual rate.
My suggestions:

1) Reduce front camber to -1/4
2) Front spring .018 or .019
3) lub on kingpin 5Kcst
4) upper arm mount spacer change to 1mm
5) raise the front of the center shock about 2mm
6) shock oil 32.5 losi
7) side damper tube lub 5Kcst
8) rear tire 42.5mm max
9) front tire 41.0mm max

All else seems like it would match up. Good luck
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Old 11-13-2017, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by davidl View Post
My suggestions:

5) raise the front of the center shock about 2mm
What effect does that have on the car?
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:31 AM
  #1143  
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Originally Posted by davidl View Post
4) upper arm mount spacer change to 1mm
Thanks for the tips, I'll give them a try next time at track. Question about the upper arm mount spacer. Wouldn't reducing the spacer effectively make the upper arm shorter and a shorter arm make the car more responsive? I'm still going to test it just curious how that will help.
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Old 11-14-2017, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Lord_Darkhelmet View Post
Thanks for the tips, I'll give them a try next time at track. Question about the upper arm mount spacer. Wouldn't reducing the spacer effectively make the upper arm shorter and a shorter arm make the car more responsive? I'm still going to test it just curious how that will help.
You are going to get a little more chassis roll with this soft suspension. So the idea is get more camber gain to offset the chassis roll and keep the tire more flat to the ground. Remember, you have taken out 3/4* of camber.
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Old 11-16-2017, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Lord_Darkhelmet View Post
I'm having trouble getting the car to be smooth and less twitchy. I have changed the car to run a transverse battery by using the pivot assembly and upper deck from a 12r6. Only other change is the shock, using a one from a 12r6.

We run on CRC black carpet and I'm using the CRC spec tire. The car is not easy to drive and likes to lift the rear inner wheel. Its so responsive just breathing on the steering makes it react hard.

I have tried a soft setup like Keven H but it seems to make it even more aggressive. Soft side springs and heavy tube lube (20k) make the rear wheel lift problem even worse. I was running the dynamic caster block at 10deg and changed it to 5deg, this was the only adjustment which made the car somewhat easy to drive. I have no idea why a soft rear setup is not helping. A fellow racer has a CRC car running soft setup and the car is super smooth to drive.

Attached is my current setup that is somewhat driveable. I hope someone can see something I missed. The only thing I was thinking was to remove the 1mm lower arm spacer and make the front end narrower. I have also tried a high amount of steering expo and turning down the dual rate.
your tires are quite big. With small tire split (like your 1mm), the first reaction of the car is fast. You can add more tire split to help with this, like 1.5mm.
Also widening the front (from axle) calms the the front. Also widening the rear to 171-172mm helps, car doesn't react and rotate so much with wider rear.
It would help if you posted images of your car? Most important one is from front, sideview that shows kingpin caster angle.
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Old 11-16-2017, 11:04 PM
  #1146  
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Originally Posted by Lord_Darkhelmet View Post
I'm having trouble getting the car to be smooth and less twitchy. I have changed the car to run a transverse battery by using the pivot assembly and upper deck from a 12r6. Only other change is the shock, using a one from a 12r6.

We run on CRC black carpet and I'm using the CRC spec tire. The car is not easy to drive and likes to lift the rear inner wheel. Its so responsive just breathing on the steering makes it react hard.

I have tried a soft setup like Keven H but it seems to make it even more aggressive. Soft side springs and heavy tube lube (20k) make the rear wheel lift problem even worse. I was running the dynamic caster block at 10deg and changed it to 5deg, this was the only adjustment which made the car somewhat easy to drive. I have no idea why a soft rear setup is not helping. A fellow racer has a CRC car running soft setup and the car is super smooth to drive.

Attached is my current setup that is somewhat driveable. I hope someone can see something I missed. The only thing I was thinking was to remove the 1mm lower arm spacer and make the front end narrower. I have also tried a high amount of steering expo and turning down the dual rate.
When looking at other setups online pay close attention to what class they are from stock (17.5 or 13.5) or Mod. In my experience setups developed from the Modified category are too aggressive for running in stock as the modified cars need help to scrub off the much higher corner entry speed. In stock the same setup just makes the car super twitchy and slower overall!

For years I struggled to get that twitch out of my R5.2 when running in stock, but here are a few things that have helped me:
Went to Maximum Static Caster
Reactive Caster to Middle setting (5)
Wider Front Track (Lower Arm Spacers - 1mm)
Toe Out (Between 1 - 2)
Decreased Bump Steer (2mm under the silver ball-studs on steering knuckles)
Larger Scrub Radius (Front Wheel Spacers - 1mm)
No Pod Droop
Heavier Shock Fluid (35wt currently)
Heavier Center Spring (AE Gold)
Wider Rear Track (Run at the max 172mm)

I've also tried flattening the shock as others have suggested, but didn't like the feel and have since reverted back to the max angle I can get away with.

An important point worth noting is I full sauce my front tires for the same duration as my rears due to some bad experiences with gumming. So just keep that in mind.

Good luck and keep us posted on your results!
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Old 11-20-2017, 07:11 PM
  #1147  
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After a couple sessions at the track I have the car working much better. Changes done:
1. set .5deg toe in on each wheel
2. removed all upper arm mount spacers (short upper arm)
3. 1mm lower arm mount spacer
4. .50mm crc front spring. also added 1.5mm spacer as crc spring is shorter
5. added 2mm bumpster spacer
6. set static caster to 3.25deg
7. upper arm mount set to 5deg reactive caster
8. shock oil changed to 35wt losi with blue associated spring
9. 7k tube lube

Car is much more stable. I can still induce wheel lift if I pull on the steering hard enough. One of the local fast guys took it for a few laps and said it was smooth and balanced. I think it can be better yet and to try out couple other things:
1. Try crc .45mm front spring
2. Reduce some ackerman by moving servo forward by a 1mm or 2mm
3. Reduce pod droop
4. Increase tube lube to 10k then 15k just to feel the change.
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Old 11-21-2017, 11:34 AM
  #1148  
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Originally Posted by Lord_Darkhelmet View Post
After a couple sessions at the track I have the car working much better. Changes done:
1. set .5deg toe in on each wheel
2. removed all upper arm mount spacers (short upper arm)
3. 1mm lower arm mount spacer
4. .50mm crc front spring. also added 1.5mm spacer as crc spring is shorter
5. added 2mm bumpster spacer
6. set static caster to 3.25deg
7. upper arm mount set to 5deg reactive caster
8. shock oil changed to 35wt losi with blue associated spring
9. 7k tube lube

Car is much more stable. I can still induce wheel lift if I pull on the steering hard enough. One of the local fast guys took it for a few laps and said it was smooth and balanced. I think it can be better yet and to try out couple other things:
1. Try crc .45mm front spring
2. Reduce some ackerman by moving servo forward by a 1mm or 2mm
3. Reduce pod droop
4. Increase tube lube to 10k then 15k just to feel the change.
Well, you did almost all of the things I suggested. Now, use the 5K in the tubes. Your using a little to thick of lub. The wheel should sit down when you use the thinner fluid.
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Old 01-10-2018, 03:19 PM
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Does anyone know if these ride height spacers for the rc12r6 would fit the rc12r5?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...sc4742/p679736
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Old 02-14-2018, 04:43 PM
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What size screws are the rear hubs on this car? Part# ASC4732
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Old 02-15-2018, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Omar View Post
What size screws are the rear hubs on this car? Part# ASC4732
4-40 thread 1/4" long
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Old 02-15-2018, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Jorge T View Post
4-40 thread 1/4" long
Thank you very much
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