RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

With exception to aluminum, Does it look like this ?

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Yes it does

walzjer

I broke my front double joint bone today. Is there a 40.6 bone available? I got the original Yokomo DJ.

GMartinez

iTrader: (91)

Check spec r

cyba888

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...t-problem.html

Raman

iTrader: (94)

First race with the RS tonight. Car was pretty good, problem was lighting was bad on outside asphalt track. I managed to break right rear upright first and later left one. I had not cut the axles because I was unsure how to go about it.

Now that I've learned my lesson, can someone let me know what's the recommended method so I don't ruin the threads.

heretic

Obvisously take the cardan joint apart before attempting anything. Then I would put several nuts (well, at least two) on the threads. Preferably steel M4 nuts. I put two nuts on the threads for several reasons:

First, by tightening the nuts against each other you can make a cutting guide after you've measured with Verniers exactly how much you want to cut off. This way you don't cut too much.

Second, you can use the nuts to clean up the threads you just cut, in two steps.

So, here it goes: put the nuts on the axle, tighten them against each other where you want them, cut with a dremel cutting disc,

then remove nut #1 and tighten nut #2 all the way into the thread so it doesn't move around for the next step,

then spin the whole hub (wheel axle) in a lathe/ drill press and with a file, put a nice clean bevel where you just cut.

Then remove nut #2. Done.

niznai

You can put a professional bevel on the thread if you keep the axle in the lathe (since you already have one), clamp your dremel in the carrier at a 45 degree angle and spinning the axle against the spin of the cutting disc side. Dremel on highest speed. I use the vice clamp attachment collar. I use this method to cut things too, with the dremel square on the cut.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Thanks. I do not have a lathe, however I do have a Dremel and have the drill press attachment for it.. And use it often with the cut off wheel. As for bevelling the edges, will have to settle on doing it with a vice grip and hand file to be safe, since I don't have a lathe

walzjer

Can someone maybe explain how different oils in the gear work? I always run 2500 rear and a spool in the front. But I want to try some other oils in the rear and maybe a second gear in the front.

What is the difference between for example 1000 or 4000 instead of the 2500 in the rear?

How does it feel to drive a 100 000 or 1 million in the front instead a spool?

niznai

Question about the floating servo mount. Can someone please measure the distance between the chassis holes where it attaches? I would like to try a Yok mount on another car and not sure if it fits.

cyba888

http://www.rctech.net/forum/rookie-z...iff-fluid.html

Awesoman

Basically, lighter rear diff oil will give you more off-power steering, and heavier oil more on-power steering.
Putting a diff in front will give you more steering.

Quietman

Had my first drive of the bd7 yesterday really impressed with the car on the whole.
Had a few races no time for practice car kept getting better for me the car liked 3000 in rear diff,had to turn punch down on car to keep it drivable.

Carranza76

iTrader: (1)

Just bout the BD7 RS
http://www.rcmart.com/yokomo-mrtcbd7...cPath=420_1178


and the this shock package. This is the upgraded shock package foe this car correct? LOL sorry new to on road. it had said they share the hop parts of the 2014 version.

http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-b72014s...n-p-38429.html