ozace

iTrader: (2)

balls ordered from 2 stores in the hope one will arrive by xmas. thanks gents

Anthias

Done! :-)

Everything mounted, every thread is good. Only damage was one of the battery mounts. :-)

But I have some questions.

1. The center screw on the chassimount of the frontbumper... How do you mount this? I got so tired of pushing the nut out of the mount, I glued it to the hole. Think I glued the threads also.... :-D

2. The front is heavy. Have you done any mods here? If I press down the front it does not raise itself much...

3. What is the best belt tentioner for the center belt?

What is anoying is that the bodyposts don't match the zero.. Thinking about cutting the posts and using velcro. Any advice on this matter?

wntdcarbon

iTrader: (8)

1. remove the foam bumper 1st, so youre finger can push the nuts, i tweezers th hold the nuts.

2. add just the preload of the shocks, it will make the springs compress and push the piston downward / it will raise it self

3. i dont use belt tensioner for the center belt, on my opinion and as i observe with my D3 when i tension the center belt it cause a drag brake, (when tension is to tight, i thinks stock belt tension is not bad enough .

eunique

iTrader: (3)

1. I was able to screw it...slowly until it starts to thread...and don't push the hex screw in which pushes the nut up and away from it's indent space.
2. yes, front is heavy due to motor...besides the adjusting of the shock collar screwing it down...I am now using a spring that is slightly stiffer than stock (from an Integy set that I am using on my Zero S)
3. others have used some spacers on the rear gear holder.
I have a Zero S belt tensioner (I don't like how close lower belt is getting to the top belt) so I ordered an idler pulley (sourced from a Yokomo)

Anthias

Adjusting the preload helped, but now it is almost at the bottom. eunique, what load spring did you change to? I have some for my Zero I maybe could use.

What about bodyposts? you all have them going trough your body?

And what about toe in the front. Mine is a bit toe out. Is it suposed to be that way?

pickled

yeah you could but it just won't look right. and you'll have to pull it apart again to install the alloy ones

pickled

I just left the centre screw out it's not really necessary anyway.

I use tamiya spring clips to give extra adjustment

as eunique said yokomo DRB-RBIP idler pulley with zero tensioner mount

velcro doesn't really work well it comes off and gets trashed etc. I have some neodymium rare earth magnets that I'm planning on using for stealth mounts.

wntdcarbon

iTrader: (8)

toe out depends on you .....

yup thats one of my problem i cant lowered my body shell shock tower touch the body shell..

try to add kick up, may 2-4mm, but it will change the behavior and handling of the kit !

pickled

yeah I tried making my own stealth mounts out of velcro but it's no good. you should have about 1*- 2* toe out

Anthias

Ok. Tnx. Think the toe out is about right then. All the links is adjusted after the manual. Waiting for my tools and servo from hobbyking. :-)

pickled

you'll definitely need a setup kit for doing camber, toe and ride height

SkR8Pn

where can you get the magnets from? I was using velcro on crawler bodies and ended up cracking the shell. I'd like to use a stealth mount setup on my D3 also..

Anthias

I have tools for measuring hight, And i get tools for camber now. Only missing for caster, but don't think I need that. Not going to run in a competition anyway. :-)

Cutting my body now.

pickled

I got the magnets from eBay they're heaps small 10mm across 1mm thick and are quite strong

you don't need to measure caster it's set by the C-hub 10*

SkR8Pn

Champ... that is perfect! Just gotta wait till they get here.... Thanks