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Old 10-31-2006, 02:57 AM
  #6196  
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Has anybody got a picture of a novak brushless system in their BD? A nice neat job that i can copy
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Old 10-31-2006, 03:34 AM
  #6197  
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whats the largest spur gear that fits on the BD without hitting the brace? and whats the largest you can run without the spur being lower than the chassis?

On the yokomo gear chart it says the highest i can acheive is 10.18. is this without the brace or what.

Thanks!
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Old 10-31-2006, 04:39 AM
  #6198  
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nah, with the .5 upright and the inner 2° blok it has 2,5° per wheel ... 3° are always measured for one wheel, so if you want to have 3° per wheel you have to use 1° uprights
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Old 10-31-2006, 07:05 AM
  #6199  
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Originally Posted by Racingbod85
How about adding 2' and 0.5'. I think you'll find it makes 2.5' each side not 3'. very simple maths I know this cos grainger edition runs 2.5' block with .5' hubs = 3'
yep thats what i would have thought too, but when i checked it with my hudy setup station it read 3. on both sides, maybe i have a bad guage??
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Old 10-31-2006, 07:10 AM
  #6200  
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Originally Posted by pheyhoe
Has anybody got a picture of a novak brushless system in their BD? A nice neat job that i can copy
this one is from the cml site.
Attached Thumbnails Yokomo MR4TC-BD-olly.jpg   Yokomo MR4TC-BD-olly_04.jpg  
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Old 10-31-2006, 07:17 AM
  #6201  
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Cheers,

It sure is going to be a tight sqeeze especially with a personal transponder on top of the servo :P
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Old 10-31-2006, 08:18 AM
  #6202  
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Originally Posted by Turtlemaster
yep thats what i would have thought too, but when i checked it with my hudy setup station it read 3. on both sides, maybe i have a bad guage??
Maybe in reality it is 3' at the wheels as it's two at the hinge pin but then the blocks alter the angle at a different point. So if the hinge pin was 0 with the blocks it would be half at the wheels but this then changes slowly as you add degrees at the pin - no idea if that makes any sense or whether I'm talking utter balls!
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Old 10-31-2006, 12:56 PM
  #6203  
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Originally Posted by onroad dude
hey guys! i have a LCG that i race but i keep haveing the small problem of snapping the diff bolt! i was wondering if any one knows where i can get a harder bolt one that might not snap so easy! thanks
The new diff bolts have less thread and dont snap as easy. On my cgm I could never run mod without snapping the front diff bolt. Also, I dont know alot about the the mbx 4, but Billy Easton gave me a diff bolt that was for the mbx 4 and it worked good. I should say that I havent snapped it yet.LOL Let me clear up when I say have less thread. On the old bolts the threads went almost all the way to the bolt head, now they only come a li bit above half way. THe reason I say try the other bolt off the mbx is b/c some hobby shops might have old stock and you would more than likely end up with an older style bolt. Sorry for rambling and hope this helps.
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Old 11-01-2006, 07:09 AM
  #6204  
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Originally Posted by Racingbod85
Maybe in reality it is 3' at the wheels as it's two at the hinge pin but then the blocks alter the angle at a different point. So if the hinge pin was 0 with the blocks it would be half at the wheels but this then changes slowly as you add degrees at the pin - no idea if that makes any sense or whether I'm talking utter balls!
lol, actually i think i know what you are saying. i think i will put the split mounts on back on the front/ rear hinge pin and put the solid front/rear mount on the rear/rear and that should give me a true 0' and then see what i get with the .5 and 1.0 hubs.

one more question that i should already know the answer to. rear anti squat

with spacers under all the hinge pins mounts in the rear is raising roll center or lower the chassis, removing the shims from the rear in anti squat, and does what to the car, removing just the front shims is what, and does what to the car?? thanks in advance. ( i gotta get me one of those set up books i'm getting to old to remember all this stuff)
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Old 11-01-2006, 07:54 PM
  #6205  
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Having a rear anti-squat (shims on rear/front suspension mounts "0.5mm") will give you a forward bite. The car is easy to drive on high speed corners very stable.
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Old 11-02-2006, 09:18 AM
  #6206  
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18
Having a rear anti-squat (shims on rear/front suspension mounts "0.5mm") will give you a forward bite. The car is easy to drive on high speed corners very stable.

I found that running anti-squat felt like it took acceleration/traction away from the car......so far I don't like the handling of the car with any kickup or anti-squat and just use shims all round to make a change.
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Old 11-02-2006, 05:41 PM
  #6207  
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I found this setup is the best I did on my car. with stiffer springs the car is a bullet. But hey it might work for me but not for you eveybody have different style of driving a car.
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Old 11-03-2006, 06:44 AM
  #6208  
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Has anyone had trouble with their car bumping something and having to adjust the steering trim.
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Old 11-03-2006, 06:58 AM
  #6209  
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Originally Posted by Midnight
Has anyone had trouble with their car bumping something and having to adjust the steering trim.
Yeap, you have either tweaked the car or bent the top shock mounting screw. Check-it out.
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Old 11-03-2006, 08:11 AM
  #6210  
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Originally Posted by Midnight
Has anyone had trouble with their car bumping something and having to adjust the steering trim.
It maybe the Servo Saver.
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