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Old 07-27-2006, 09:30 AM   #5761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BJ
I might be wrong, but doesn't the ackerman only effect the outside wheel.
If you set your steering travel at 20degrees left and right then that would be the same regardless what ackerman you are running

I was just thinking that it would require more travel to take advantage of ackerman setting moved forward. From what i see the more you move the inside link forward the more toe out the car has at full lock.
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Old 07-27-2006, 09:31 AM   #5762
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Originally Posted by Turtlemaster
are you finding bottom end or top end or a combo, i have one and am having trouble finding the right gearing. i'm told that when the com turns silver its not getting hot enough even though its very hot to the touch. (more then normal whatever that is)

out track is very large out door.
Gear it high, around 5.75. This motor is not bothered by the heat, it is better when hot anyway, as far as I can tell.
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Old 07-27-2006, 10:03 AM   #5763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francis M.
I was just thinking that it would require more travel to take advantage of ackerman setting moved forward. From what i see the more you move the inside link forward the more toe out the car has at full lock.
Yeah I see where you are coming from, but the thing that gets me, is we have control over the inside wheel cos the steering throw can be restricts, again 20degrees if you like. But its the outside wheel that would be changing, as far as I can see the more forward the link the more the outside wheel get pushed. Therefore increasing angle to match the inside wheel.

So your saying not to adjust(reset) the steering once changed the ackerman?
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Old 07-27-2006, 11:36 AM   #5764
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I don't know how the laws of physics of whatever work on this, but I find that when I move the steering link forward on the plate, the steering is more responsive and aggresive, throughout the turning circle. I think that this is because, the further forward the link is, the more responsive it is to movements from the steering rack and hence the servo. I always reset the geomatry after adgusting the ackermann i.e if I had it in one hole and had 0.5* toe-in, after moving it I would reset the steering to this toe angle.
Hope that gives some insight.....
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Old 07-27-2006, 04:39 PM   #5765
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hi i need to ball type king pin for the front camber link that goes on the top steering knuckle

is the part number SD-414TA the titanium king pin, the ball type? or is it just the flat one that goes on the botttom? thanks
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Old 07-27-2006, 07:44 PM   #5766
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the stock king pin is part #sd-414b
or if you want ito to conevert, tot the off road ball cups and ball studs get # bx-414kb, ( kingpin) you will have to grind away about 2mm off of the sleve and at leat 1.5 mill off of the kingpin, other wase the threads will hit the drive axel, unless however you are planning on running the steering knuckle in the low position, then thre will be no need shorten the kinpin, ( i would still grind the sleve and us the kingpin coller ( part # sd-414c) what is really nice about using the off road kingpin is you have more threads in the steering knuckle, which in turn prevents the kingpin stripping out in the steering knuckle.
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Old 07-27-2006, 11:14 PM   #5767
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just a quick question. how do you grind the sleve? i just cant imagine it, cause i dont have one but im planning to. is it just the same as the ball stud pin, but a little bit longer?
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Old 07-27-2006, 11:54 PM   #5768
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thanks pops,

doesn't ackerman, effect the inside wheel, as i turn the wheel on the transmitter and the wheels approach full lock, the inner wheel turns in and increases its angle faster i always thought this was ackerman, and the adjustment we were making was when and how fast the inner wheel did its thing. if i'm wrong, or have it backwards, well,,,,,, my bad.
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Old 07-28-2006, 12:32 AM   #5769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonC
the stock king pin is part #sd-414b
or if you want ito to conevert, tot the off road ball cups and ball studs get # bx-414kb, ( kingpin) you will have to grind away about 2mm off of the sleve and at leat 1.5 mill off of the kingpin, other wase the threads will hit the drive axel, unless however you are planning on running the steering knuckle in the low position, then thre will be no need shorten the kinpin, ( i would still grind the sleve and us the kingpin coller ( part # sd-414c) what is really nice about using the off road kingpin is you have more threads in the steering knuckle, which in turn prevents the kingpin stripping out in the steering knuckle.

hi jason. in my manual it says ZS-414B, is that the same? thanks alot.
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Old 07-28-2006, 02:02 AM   #5770
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What was Masami & the rest of the Yok BD used in the IFMAR, front Spool with center one-way?
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Old 07-28-2006, 06:37 AM   #5771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtlemaster
thanks pops,

doesn't ackerman, effect the inside wheel, as i turn the wheel on the transmitter and the wheels approach full lock, the inner wheel turns in and increases its angle faster i always thought this was ackerman, and the adjustment we were making was when and how fast the inner wheel did its thing. if i'm wrong, or have it backwards, well,,,,,, my bad.

I don't know either....inside or outside wheel. I read somewhere that its the arc thats changing??

So can some one answer first, is it outside or inside wheel??
Why have TeamYokomo drivers moved the ackerman plate 4mm further forward? what are they trying to achieve?
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Old 07-28-2006, 09:06 AM   #5772
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Hi,

the ackermann effect is one of the most interesting and most complicated things (right behind camber changes in the corner during damper action).
To keep it simple:
The inside tire should always be more angled then the outside tire. This is because the inside tire has to turn a much smaller turning diameter around the corner, while the outside tire doesn't need that much steering lock as the diameter of its turning circle is quite bigger.
I hope it's understandable... If not, please ask and I'll try to explain it in a different way.

@BJ: As the new C-Hubs and steering knuckle allow more steering throw the mounting holes on the steering knuckles are further forward to prevent wobbling at maximum steering throw. To keep the ackermann effect the same the holes have to be further forward aswell.

Cheers
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Old 07-28-2006, 09:44 AM   #5773
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That means....

My alum. steering knockle is semi useless with the new C-hub and steering plate.

~Ming
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Old 07-28-2006, 10:14 AM   #5774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BringItOn
hi jason. in my manual it says ZS-414B, is that the same? thanks alot.
i belive that zs-414b is the Ti version where at sd414b is the standard version i will have to double check on that
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Old 07-28-2006, 05:12 PM   #5775
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Quote:
just a quick question. how do you grind the sleve? i just cant imagine it, cause i dont have one but im planning to. is it just the same as the ball stud pin, but a little bit longer?
still need a responds my FELLOW bd people.
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