Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I seal every carbon part on my cars, they dont feel complete until I do. But about half the people out there dont seal a single piece. It's all optional, but definately gives a better finish, and no sharp edges.

smojoe

iTrader: (2)

okay, guess I will go ahead and seal everything then

Hebiki-
I noticed that you run the steering linkage on the underside of the steering rack. Is there a specific purpose for this or are you just trying to get the CG lower?

pops

iTrader: (1)

I have one and they are great. Lightweight, will break in brushes, check amp draw, RPM and condition of motor. Only downside that I have found is the sensor wires are weak at the plug. Mine wore out and broke after a year and a half. I ordered a new sensor and then I took some shoe goo and dabbed it around the wires to reinforce and protect the wires. I haven't had any problems since.

pops

iTrader: (1)

Yokomo makes a CF flexable sticker sheet that really looks like CF. I even added a piece to the transponder, small hole for the light to show.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Not a bad idea pops. I'll have to do that to my MMS. Looks like a good idea for the BCS temp probe too.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Running the link on the bottom takes away a little bit of bump steering.

Martin Hofer

Actually there is an ESC that doesn't get hot over the run, even with a 7T motor an 7,2 gearing :-) GM SX12 rulez :-)

I'm looking forward to getting my Yokomo in about 2 - 3 weeks.

But I'm a bit confused. Some say, steering links under the rack gives more turn-in-steering, others say it doesn't ... What's right?

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

all the steering link under the rack does is eliminate bumpsteer, which gives the car more turn in steering. If you race on a wide open track then keep it up top so you can maximize your corner speed.

Martin Hofer

So: under the rack, more turn in steering, but less cornerspeed

on top of the rack, less turn in, but carries more cornerspeed

right?

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

Yep

johnbull

The MMS is a useful piece of equipment.

I use mine all the time, and have never had any problems with it.

I recommend it.

Sleighty

hi guys,

bin searching around in this thread but cant quite seem to come across exactly what im after,
What hop up driveshafts are the best?
I was looking at the rayspeed cvds on speedtechs site but wasnt sure if they would fit?


thanks

iamramos

rayspeed will fit the newer cars...sd and newer

pheyhoe

Could somebody post all the parts needed to make the ones that include some ntc3/tc4 parts?

Are these ones meant to be strongest?

pops

iTrader: (1)

We are running the prototype Ti Racing CVDs, they are made of aluminum, and after 6 month of hard racing every weekend from 19T to running a 7x1 they are showing no wear. You have seen the MIPs, how the pins and holes in the bell elongate and wear? These are not showing any wear, plus there are 2 additional holes, for when they do wear out. They are very strong and resist being bent. We have only bent 1 bone so far, racing on tracks with heavy boards.

I hope they put these into production soon, because everyone should be able to get these. The only problem we had at first was the fit of the wheel hex. It was too tight and I had to grind a little off the hex to make them fit like the Rayspeed type.

I am not supposed to say much about them, but I can't help it because these are such a great improvement over stock products and any after market products I have tried so far.

I think the next best thing is the Yoke hardend front and rear universals, you just have to grind the ball down on the front bones to get a fit. I wish I knew someone who could remove the pin on the front bones and install the rear bones on the front axles for a perfect fit.