Hot Bodies Cyclone
cheehtae,
Did somebody at HB answered that it won't fit with your black (original) cyclone? If so, that is incorrect answer....
Yes, the 3.6mm thickness main chassis and 2.5mm upper deck both will fit on your car with no problem. If i remember right, they both were in stock 2weeks ago so they are most likely available.
Thanks,
Did somebody at HB answered that it won't fit with your black (original) cyclone? If so, that is incorrect answer....
Yes, the 3.6mm thickness main chassis and 2.5mm upper deck both will fit on your car with no problem. If i remember right, they both were in stock 2weeks ago so they are most likely available.
Thanks,
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
-Korey
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
I know it has been asked, but it has not been answered from what I can see.
Is there going to be a new Cyclone from Hotbodies to update to Lipo?
Something in the wings? New car alltogether? Anything?
I have had a Pro4 Hara, Cyclone Hara, Cyclone WCE Andy Moore, I loved each one but didn't race last year so I sold my WCE hoping that a new car will come about.
I am going to be running a TOP Photon for now, its Lipo ready and not about to get superseeded by a T4
I really like Hotbodies and want another but only if they can keep up to date with technology.
Is there going to be a new Cyclone from Hotbodies to update to Lipo?
Something in the wings? New car alltogether? Anything?
I have had a Pro4 Hara, Cyclone Hara, Cyclone WCE Andy Moore, I loved each one but didn't race last year so I sold my WCE hoping that a new car will come about.
I am going to be running a TOP Photon for now, its Lipo ready and not about to get superseeded by a T4
I really like Hotbodies and want another but only if they can keep up to date with technology.
Purchased a Cyclone WCE a few weeks ago, just got it back home and fitted all the electronics.
What have you guys done with regards to securing stick packs?
Any pics or advice much appreciated.
Cheers
Mark
What have you guys done with regards to securing stick packs?
Any pics or advice much appreciated.
Cheers
Mark
I know it has been asked, but it has not been answered from what I can see.
Is there going to be a new Cyclone from Hotbodies to update to Lipo?
Something in the wings? New car alltogether? Anything?
I have had a Pro4 Hara, Cyclone Hara, Cyclone WCE Andy Moore, I loved each one but didn't race last year so I sold my WCE hoping that a new car will come about.
I am going to be running a TOP Photon for now, its Lipo ready and not about to get superseeded by a T4
I really like Hotbodies and want another but only if they can keep up to date with technology.
Is there going to be a new Cyclone from Hotbodies to update to Lipo?
Something in the wings? New car alltogether? Anything?
I have had a Pro4 Hara, Cyclone Hara, Cyclone WCE Andy Moore, I loved each one but didn't race last year so I sold my WCE hoping that a new car will come about.
I am going to be running a TOP Photon for now, its Lipo ready and not about to get superseeded by a T4
I really like Hotbodies and want another but only if they can keep up to date with technology.
Anybody out there willing to sell a diff for cheap.
Tech Adept
Sure thing!
Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Losi 37.5 wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 2.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 1.5mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF and FR
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 6mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm, with 2mm gap on TC swaybar link
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, DCJ's
Wheelbase: 2.7 in front of arm, .7mm behind (this is needed when using the different suspension block modification).
Wheel Hex: thin
Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 37.5 wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm with 4mm gap on TC swaybar link
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard
Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck (not cut)
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: Jaco Blue
Body: Protoform Mazdaspeed 6 with HB Subaru Wing
Notes:
If you don't want to do the suspension block modification, I've found running the shock in hole #1 on the front suspension arm with the standard suspension blocks works really good too. It gives a somewhat similar feeling and is worth a try. Just combine it with a 0 deg toe block to take out the arm sweep, and use a standard wheel hex.
This setup is for a med-high grip carpet track.
Happy Racing!
-Korey
Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Losi 37.5 wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 2.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 1.5mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF and FR
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 6mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm, with 2mm gap on TC swaybar link
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, DCJ's
Wheelbase: 2.7 in front of arm, .7mm behind (this is needed when using the different suspension block modification).
Wheel Hex: thin
Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 37.5 wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm with 4mm gap on TC swaybar link
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard
Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck (not cut)
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: Jaco Blue
Body: Protoform Mazdaspeed 6 with HB Subaru Wing
Notes:
If you don't want to do the suspension block modification, I've found running the shock in hole #1 on the front suspension arm with the standard suspension blocks works really good too. It gives a somewhat similar feeling and is worth a try. Just combine it with a 0 deg toe block to take out the arm sweep, and use a standard wheel hex.
This setup is for a med-high grip carpet track.
Happy Racing!
-Korey
Cheers,
Michael
Tech Adept
Micheal
I to have used a Extotek chassis, but have found it to be inconsitant on carpet as imo its to narrow and to thin, as it has to much flex in it. So am having a new made 6mm wider, and made from 2.4mm.
I can get the standard TC dwn lower than 1300 balanced, but even at 1350 the car dnt feel right, so have gone bak to 1420 where the car work pretty gd. Also off to snowbirds soon where the limit is 1420 anyways
Malc
I to have used a Extotek chassis, but have found it to be inconsitant on carpet as imo its to narrow and to thin, as it has to much flex in it. So am having a new made 6mm wider, and made from 2.4mm.
I can get the standard TC dwn lower than 1300 balanced, but even at 1350 the car dnt feel right, so have gone bak to 1420 where the car work pretty gd. Also off to snowbirds soon where the limit is 1420 anyways
Malc
If thats the case then my TC at 1400 should be spot on. I am not in a postion to have a new chassis made, but I presume I could add the ATC posts at each end for similar effect? Or may be a more ridgid top-deck. I ll give it a go first as I liked the first TOP scythe on carpet which had loads of flex,
I also found that there was a slight tweak on my car coursing the balence to be out, its now spot in in every corner.
good luck an snowbirds......
Mi
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
-Korey
Hi,
Need someone to confirm 2 questions:
1) Which arms are heavier?
2) Which arms are stronger?
HPI Pro4: Part# 73506
HB TC: Part# 67717
Need someone to confirm 2 questions:
1) Which arms are heavier?
2) Which arms are stronger?
HPI Pro4: Part# 73506
HB TC: Part# 67717
Tech Adept
If you mean lipo's I used to just use tape with the standard chassis , now I have exotek I have made some 'l' shaped brackets to wrap around the pack.
It its stick packs I suppose you would just have to make something similar
hope that helps,
mi
Tech Adept
That is for High Grip Carpet (black groove on the track ). Jaco blue rubber tires are the spec tire we have to use. At my local track, 1/12 has been getting REALLY popular, so they lay down a really nice groove with the foam tires. Plus we use Paragon, so it builds up traction really fast.
-Korey
-Korey
I also noticed the spacing on the role bars, what effect does this have? I am on a tight budget so making a roll bar change with spacer is very handy!!
thanks again,
mi
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
-Korey
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
When that gap is smaller, it makes the swaybar very flat. This makes it so when the suspension travels, it flexes the swaybar sooner, and more overall. This makes it feel stiffer generally.
I use this to fine tune the swaybar a bit. It works out pretty good
-Korey
Hello Korey I have to ask two questions: I noticed in your setup (and also on that of Baker for tarmac) for carpet there is less thickness than the rear camber link on the front because the choice?
And the aluminum front spindle (# 67698) harm than good especially the third hole?
Thanks
Agno
And the aluminum front spindle (# 67698) harm than good especially the third hole?
Thanks
Agno