k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

I wish...I only got another black cyclone not the TC

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Not just any black cyclone. You got a black cyclone, from a black man, that you will be running black tire's on Man I have too much time on my hands.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Hi guys

always a lot of people to talk fdr but not that many to talk true setup changes impact... (just being a bit provocative here, but as usual this "technical" forum has a low S/N ratio...).

Anyone knowledgeable wants to take a crack at it? rc-pete? Korey?

thanks guys,
Paul

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

ok I'll give you that

I got the chassis yesterday Looks great!

FelixC

iTrader: (3)

hi guys new at hotbodies im trying to find setup sheets for cyclone tc went to hpi-hotbodies website its all old andy moore setup. were can i go for hara and other setup for cyclone tc. thanks in advance.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

you can try here - http://www.petitrc.com/view_news.php?id=4553

or here - http://www.gearchart.com

Anemic_SluG

iTrader: (23)

OK so I first talked about wheelbase changes and how they effect cornering as a whole, which is where I usually use them, I understand you are asking what the effect of say shortening one side or the other and how that effects the characteristics of the car. Shortening the wheelbase from one side of the car brings the weight of the car closer to the axle, which in turn gives you more weight over that axle and more traction like your theory states. As you get more traction you also are changing the turning radius etc. So if you shorten the rear to get more traction, and run the track you may not see any performance gain if you still have the same steering throw as before due to the increase in turning radius which could still pull the rear of the car around. Hope that helps, and more of what you were looking for.

-James

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Glad yoy liked it. Sorry I put everything in zip lock bags. I wanted to keep my parts box. I haven't been able to find the same style again Call me cheap

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Sorry Paul, I've been slammed with school haha. This is the first tim eI've been able to relax and breathe for over a week. Anyway, I'm sure I can help out.

Front wheelbase changes:

So usually if I shorten the wheelbase in the front end (move the arms back) it makes the car sit on the nose more. Now, it;s been hard for me to be able to tell how it changes the car in the three main parts of a corner (entry, mid and exit). But I do know it will generally make the car have more steering and be more aggressive off power, and have more rear grip on power (more available weight to transfer to the rear from the front). If you lengthen the wheel base in the front (move the arms forward) it will smooth out the car and make it feel like a Cadillac .

Rear wheelbase changes:

Generally when I lengthen the rear wheelbase on a car, I notice it tends to make the car have a little more on power steering, and be very smooth at the same time. I can't really explain why, but that is what I've felt before. Shortening the wheelbase will give really good low speed steering in those tight 180's and such, but have less on power steering.

That's about as detailed I can get. Other tha the obvious when you change the front and rear wheelbase together: Longer is smoother, and shorter is more aggressive.

-Korey

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

not a problem...i got a few boxes already and (honestly) didn't need anymore now I just gotta merge all the parts

rc pete

iTrader: (6)

My $0.02, as well:

I concur with your conclusion, Lonestar, that altered weight distribution is the primary result of a wheelbase change. The geometry change... even a 1 or 2mm wheelbase change over a distance of 258mm, I've never considered significant.

With the wheelbase at full length on both ends, you would have more weight around the center of the car and therefore the lowest polar moment of inertia (the ability to turn/rotate the car). This will allow you to turn it in with less effort and also straighten it out coming out of a turn with less effort. I find this to be the most responsive setup, like a mid-engined full sized race car.

Shortening the front end puts more weight towards the front. Turn in is smoother and more progressive. I find this works well on longer corners with decreasing radius, like a sweeper into a hairpin.

Shortening the rear end puts more weight towards the rear. The 'backpack effect' is a good way to put it. It allows you to swing the rear end and rotate the car more on power. This is again handy for longer corners... you can get on the power sooner and not have the car straighten out right away.

With both adjustments, you also have a slight side effect to the other end of the car. Shortening the front mostly affects the front weight distribution, but it also takes a slight amount of weight off the rear. The reverse would go for the rear adjustment.

Edit: Ha... just read Korey's post... different drivers look for and feel different things. I was doing a driving/tuning seminar for the guys at my track this week, and that's one of the things I told them... you have to tune for you.

FelixC

iTrader: (3)

thanks k_bojar very helpful

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Going off your original question....is the grip going from low to high?

Tulsa TC3

I have a question about layout changes and what should you do when your local track changes the layout? I think it is basically this. The setup before had wider turns than shown here form what I am thinking. What would be a good setup for tighter turns than I am used to,or is that a wierd question? thihttp://www.rctech.net/forum/attachments/racing-forum/407075d1232097138-360-rc-speedway-

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

please contact me if you or know anybody with a Surikarn Ed. Cyclone