yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

Hey Korey,

So what's the deal, are the Non-TC Cyclone bulkheads going to be discontinued?

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

NOPE

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Thanks Clint. I'm kinda bored here at work, so I try to help out as much as I can.

About the bulkheads... I'm not sure. I'll have to talk to some of the guys at HB and get back to everyone next week.

-Korey

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Neeever mind.... he already answered LMAO

t3amfish

Hi everyone...

im new.. i know.. i just got back into R/C cars... havent messed around with one for about 10 years.. and looks like a lot of things have changed..

anyways.. i just bought a Hot Bodies Cyclone S... and i plan to use a motor and speed control off of another car i had..

i just got a 4200 Nickle metal battery... and a new charger.. (i now see everyone going with the "brushless" stuff and Lithium batteries)

anyways.. here is my question... this car is just for fun.. not competition.. so i was wondering if there are any parts i could upgrade to make the car a little bit better, or necessary upgrades that i dont know about... i havent started putting the kit together yet.. but will start tonight..

any recomendations? thanks

shadow102

iTrader: (21)

The c hubs on the s model have been known to be a weak point

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

The Cyclone S C hubs are made of some ridculously brittle plastic. Youd be lucky if they lasted 3-4 races.

With such poor durability Hotbodies should really take them off the market.

yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

As long as you don't crash it, the car will be OK for running in the street in front of your house, or local parking lot. This is an entry level touring car, and is upgradable to the pro level kits, and you dont really need any parts to make the car "better" if all u plan to do with it is just drive around your house or parking lot...the reason is that the car will not be put on a road course where you have to make turns, brake, stop, accelerate, etc., drive the car, which then will actually require performance from the car to get around the track.

Imagine getting a full scale Mazda Speed 6. You can upgrade the car to race it in real Touring car classes, but all you want it for is just to drive it around town, groceries, work, crousing, etc...no racing. Then the car will be just that, and will do fine at stop signs, it will run fine down the highway, etc. You dont need to get racing performance upgrades if all you're gonna use it for is for casual traveling around town, work, etc...

Same here with r/c touring cars. They are made for racing, and some companies make entry level cars, which are upgradable to the full racing versions to help beginners get in the sport at low cost, and then work their way up.

With the Cyclone S, you get the entry level version of the Cyclone pro kits, but you gotta remember they are meant to be touring cars for racing on a budget, and then you work your way up as you progress on your racing. Its a car made to be raced, and that's why it has the tunability it comes with like real race cars so you can work on your suspension set up and get the car to work properly around a track.

So if you're going to just play around a parking lot with buddies etc, or drag race, the car will be fine and you dont really need hopups. They wont make a difference performance wise, since the car is not going to be run at a track where such things are noticable.

Try to go your local track and run the car there and ask local racers for tips and I'm sure they'll guide in the right way.

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

I'm looking at the pics of the dope wiring jobs (very nice), just wondering why nobody drills their ball cups so you don't have to pry them of for adjustments?

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

I never really touched mine for setup. But I never felt like doing it

ShaunMac

I have always drilled the ballcups for easy access. Makes quick roll-center adjustments much easier. Plus, the ballcups stay tighter, longer. Popping them off only a few times adds unwanted slop to the suspension.

vazzo

iTrader: (101)

Hi Guys

Im going to be running modified 6.5R Novak, do any of you run this motor and if so what gearing do you recommend, Novak state that 8.5 FDR is a starting point but I'm a little worried as I tried the 3.5 FDR on the 17.5 and thermalled the motor. Im running 48 pitch gears as well. I was thinking more like a 8.78 FDR which is a 90 spur and 25 tooth pinion. Would rather hear from the experts before I try this though. Ill be running the car mainly in the evening and sometimes during the day so I guess I will need both gearing options.

Cheers
Adrian

shadow102

iTrader: (21)

The reason why you thermaled the 17.5 and the reason you will thermal the 6.5 is your fdr calculations are off. It looks like you are calculating using the old 16t pulleys which gives you a 2.4375 internal ratio. Being you have a TC the 18t pulley gives you a 2.18 internal ratio

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

Yup! Now lets all go and drill our ballcups.

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

I bought a second car which had them drilled, its better than sliced bread!