Hot Bodies Cyclone
07-19-2008, 02:16 AM
"Tamiya 416 rear hubs and the rear outter hinge pins is all you need and a reamer. The hot bodies rear outter hinge pins are 2.5mm and you need to ream the outter part of the arm to 2.6mm to fit the Tamiya hinge pins. Once you do this your toe in worries are over. (Insert clapping and rejoice) Now here's the catch... but it's a good one if you ask me. The Tamiya rear hub is shorter in height than the hotbodies so you will have to use shims in order to get it back to regular height. I added 3mm of shims. The last catch is that the holes on the Tamiya hub are inbetween the what we use for hotbodies. On the Hotbodies we always use the inner hole on the hub. The Tamiya hub has their hole inside the hotbodies inner hole and the Tamiya outter hole is inbetween the Hotbodies inner and outter hole (did I lose anyone in the explaination) So what I ran was the Tamiya ouuter hole (middle of the Hotbodies holes) The car was even better than it was for the Reedy race. I also made some spring changes and moved the rear shocks out a couple of holes. "
tamiya parts
Hinge pin part #53917
Rear hub part#51333
07-19-2008, 04:07 AM
read into it a little more next time...
"Tamiya 416 rear hubs and the rear outter hinge pins is all you need and a reamer. The hot bodies rear outter hinge pins are 2.5mm and you need to ream the outter part of the arm to 2.6mm to fit the Tamiya hinge pins. Once you do this your toe in worries are over. (Insert clapping and rejoice) Now here's the catch... but it's a good one if you ask me. The Tamiya rear hub is shorter in height than the hotbodies so you will have to use shims in order to get it back to regular height. I added 3mm of shims. The last catch is that the holes on the Tamiya hub are inbetween the what we use for hotbodies. On the Hotbodies we always use the inner hole on the hub. The Tamiya hub has their hole inside the hotbodies inner hole and the Tamiya outter hole is inbetween the Hotbodies inner and outter hole (did I lose anyone in the explaination) So what I ran was the Tamiya ouuter hole (middle of the Hotbodies holes) The car was even better than it was for the Reedy race. I also made some spring changes and moved the rear shocks out a couple of holes. "
tamiya parts
Hinge pin part #53917
Rear hub part#51333
"Tamiya 416 rear hubs and the rear outter hinge pins is all you need and a reamer. The hot bodies rear outter hinge pins are 2.5mm and you need to ream the outter part of the arm to 2.6mm to fit the Tamiya hinge pins. Once you do this your toe in worries are over. (Insert clapping and rejoice) Now here's the catch... but it's a good one if you ask me. The Tamiya rear hub is shorter in height than the hotbodies so you will have to use shims in order to get it back to regular height. I added 3mm of shims. The last catch is that the holes on the Tamiya hub are inbetween the what we use for hotbodies. On the Hotbodies we always use the inner hole on the hub. The Tamiya hub has their hole inside the hotbodies inner hole and the Tamiya outter hole is inbetween the Hotbodies inner and outter hole (did I lose anyone in the explaination) So what I ran was the Tamiya ouuter hole (middle of the Hotbodies holes) The car was even better than it was for the Reedy race. I also made some spring changes and moved the rear shocks out a couple of holes. "
tamiya parts
Hinge pin part #53917
Rear hub part#51333
I suggest you take some of your own advice and actually read what I first wrote rather than just jump in type for the sake of it..
Regardless of what hubs I have on the car, Tamiya or otherwise, there is still 2 degrees difference in rear toe left to right. The "fix" above was to address the issue with a moulding fault at HPI/HB, ie faulty rear uprights.
FYI - The chassis is drilled incorrectly. I have measure wheelbase from front left to rear left & front right to rear right (at the axles) and the left side which is giving a reading of 4 degrees is shorter in wheelbase that the reght side of the car giving 2 degrees. Best way I can describe it is that the rear suspension is mounted "skewed" because of poor alignment.
07-19-2008, 05:59 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Atomix
I have 2 chassis for my Cyclone, the stock one and a BMI. With both the rear toe was off with new rear HB hubs. With some old pro4 hubs it's not off very much but still not the same on both sides.
I got some 3racing aluminum rear hubs from a friend and now my rear toe is the same on both sides. I'm going to try the new HB aluminum 1* hubs and see what there like next. I'm not saying yours isn't off but that's what I found on mine. The thing I don't understand is if I move the new stock HB-CG rear hubs from the right to the left side it doesn't fix it or change it very much ??????
I have 2 chassis for my Cyclone, the stock one and a BMI. With both the rear toe was off with new rear HB hubs. With some old pro4 hubs it's not off very much but still not the same on both sides.
I got some 3racing aluminum rear hubs from a friend and now my rear toe is the same on both sides. I'm going to try the new HB aluminum 1* hubs and see what there like next. I'm not saying yours isn't off but that's what I found on mine. The thing I don't understand is if I move the new stock HB-CG rear hubs from the right to the left side it doesn't fix it or change it very much ??????
07-19-2008, 08:25 AM
what is the recomended shock length for the TC, and where do you measure from?
Many thanks
Matt
Many thanks
Matt
07-19-2008, 10:57 AM
Yeah, thanks for the tip
I suggest you take some of your own advice and actually read what I first wrote rather than just jump in type for the sake of it..
Regardless of what hubs I have on the car, Tamiya or otherwise, there is still 2 degrees difference in rear toe left to right. The "fix" above was to address the issue with a moulding fault at HPI/HB, ie faulty rear uprights.
FYI - The chassis is drilled incorrectly. I have measure wheelbase from front left to rear left & front right to rear right (at the axles) and the left side which is giving a reading of 4 degrees is shorter in wheelbase that the reght side of the car giving 2 degrees. Best way I can describe it is that the rear suspension is mounted "skewed" because of poor alignment.
I suggest you take some of your own advice and actually read what I first wrote rather than just jump in type for the sake of it..
Regardless of what hubs I have on the car, Tamiya or otherwise, there is still 2 degrees difference in rear toe left to right. The "fix" above was to address the issue with a moulding fault at HPI/HB, ie faulty rear uprights.
FYI - The chassis is drilled incorrectly. I have measure wheelbase from front left to rear left & front right to rear right (at the axles) and the left side which is giving a reading of 4 degrees is shorter in wheelbase that the reght side of the car giving 2 degrees. Best way I can describe it is that the rear suspension is mounted "skewed" because of poor alignment.
07-19-2008, 11:00 AM
Usually most everyone I know just runs them at 64mm, which is the length of the shock when the bottom shock end is threaded on all the way. Thats measured from the very top of the shock, so the very bottom of the shock.
-Korey
-Korey
07-19-2008, 11:25 AM
07-19-2008, 12:39 PM
When I first got my kit I knew of this problem already from a little reading on here. When I inspected the hubs it was pretty obvious that the mold was a little funky, or they drilled it wrong. The hole for the hinge pin was centered on one side, and then not centered on the other side. Since we use 0 deg rear hubs, it should be a perfectly square drill path. I know Hara was just redrilling/reaming them so they were straight, but it takes some practice to get that right.
I had gone to my local hobby shop and grabbed another set of hubs and inspected them, and they checked out fine. I installed them on the car and the rear toe issue was gone. I also found some 3 racing aluminum rear hub carriers and they also solved the problem. So for me, I didn't have a chassis issue. I had a rear hub issue.
Now, this is just a batch issue as far as I know, but I will try and get someone on here that knows more than I do about what is going on.
-Korey
I had gone to my local hobby shop and grabbed another set of hubs and inspected them, and they checked out fine. I installed them on the car and the rear toe issue was gone. I also found some 3 racing aluminum rear hub carriers and they also solved the problem. So for me, I didn't have a chassis issue. I had a rear hub issue.
Now, this is just a batch issue as far as I know, but I will try and get someone on here that knows more than I do about what is going on.
-Korey
07-19-2008, 10:39 PM
07-20-2008, 05:24 AM
I want to mount a fan on my cyclone, like about a 40mm or 50mm fan on top of the motor but not touching it, anyone have any pics of a braket they have made up, or pics of the coolcanfan for the cyclone.....
thanks
thanks
07-20-2008, 04:27 PM
Had my first race with the cyclone today...car ran great besides a bit of understeer, a bad radio glitch and the tool behind the radio lol
07-21-2008, 12:28 AM
New parts arrived
07-21-2008, 07:07 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Since we use 0 deg rear hubs, it should be a perfectly square drill path. I know Hara was just redrilling/reaming them so they were straight.
Now, this is just a batch issue as far as I know, but I will try and get someone on here that knows more than I do about what is going on.
-Korey
Now, this is just a batch issue as far as I know, but I will try and get someone on here that knows more than I do about what is going on.
-Korey
Thank you Korey and please do
I don't think anybody not even Hara should have to re-drill/ream and use a bigger pin
I think we all would like to know when this will go away and not come back.
Thank you ...a happy Cyclone racer
07-21-2008, 07:19 AM
07-21-2008, 07:22 AM
Malc