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Old 05-16-2007, 03:51 PM
  #8416  
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I just round the battery and tape slots and CA all the edges
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Old 05-16-2007, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Stew Noble
Square holes hold the lube for the balls in the pulley for longer
This is true - Andy Moore prefers these pulleys to the newer thinner pulley exactly for the reason that it holds the lube around the balls in the pulley for longer.
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Old 05-16-2007, 04:50 PM
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just ran my first race with my cyclone this last weekend and i am very impressed with it. i still had the center one way in so it was a bit of a handful on a tight track running stock. center one way shall be fixed as well as front one way before the next race.
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Old 05-17-2007, 03:14 AM
  #8419  
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Originally Posted by F. Alonso
This is true - Andy Moore prefers these pulleys to the newer thinner pulley exactly for the reason that it holds the lube around the balls in the pulley for longer.
Does someone know the partnumber of these older wide diff pulleys, or are the thinner ones direct replacements for the older ones?
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Old 05-17-2007, 03:29 AM
  #8420  
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It should be a direct replacement, however if you are looking for the pulleys for a v1 spool or v1 one-way they are different.
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Old 05-17-2007, 04:31 AM
  #8421  
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I have also found with the old pulley that the diff balls not only keep the diff grease in them longer, but also the balls rotate on a slightly wider radius on the diff ring, it seems as though the diff has less of a tendancy to slip.


I still can not understand why no TC manufacturer runs big diff rings like on 12th scale cars, diff action can be smoother, with much less force.
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Old 05-17-2007, 05:07 AM
  #8422  
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Originally Posted by Thraex
Does someone know the partnumber of these older wide diff pulleys, or are the thinner ones direct replacements for the older ones?
A495, 39T Ball differential pulley.
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Old 05-17-2007, 05:42 AM
  #8423  
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If you look at post #8402, you'll see an explanation for the pulleys and their part numbers.
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Old 05-17-2007, 06:07 AM
  #8424  
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thanks
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Old 05-17-2007, 06:49 PM
  #8425  
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So i looked at my kit, i got the same parts as u guys.. its gonna be one hell of a time building this... lol. expect noob questions from me too i guess:P Oh yea.. issit necessary to round the edges? or is that just extra work for nothing.. i heard it helps on impact.. how true is that?
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Old 05-17-2007, 06:58 PM
  #8426  
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I rounded my chassis edges. Took me a while even with 150 grit paper. Finished it off with some 220, then some 400. The finish itself with the CA is amazing.

I do need to get some acetone and fix up the bad job I did on the top deck though.
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Old 05-17-2007, 07:53 PM
  #8427  
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How do the clamp type wheel hubs work? Do I tighten them A LOT so that they don't fall off? And is excessive play here normal?
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Old 05-17-2007, 08:49 PM
  #8428  
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They don't have to excessively tight. The clamping action just keeps them from falling off. When you install the wheels they should seat solid against the pins. You did put all the shims in to get rid of some of the slop on the axles didn't you? My wheels have a little end play, but not a lot.
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Old 05-18-2007, 02:08 AM
  #8429  
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make sure to post some pics of ur build yeaH~ can learn from that :P
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Old 05-18-2007, 05:56 AM
  #8430  
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Yerr. when i built my A,M cyclone i was less than impressed with the slop in the wheel bearing and axel's in the hubs. so i changed to the ali hub fnt & back, even worse, i had to use bearing lok but be carefull not to get it in the bearings, ofcourse...... It seems that bearing in hub not tight enough fit.
I could get 2mm slop on steering L/R
any one got a fix?
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