Hot Bodies Cyclone
11-30-2006, 05:06 PM
#6167
Originally Posted by 2-Bad
I too have had trouble with the “Heavy Duty” diff screw, snapped about 4 now, all breaking at the neck of the shoulder and thread point of the screw. All screws broke while kissing the raised ripple of the corner. Car gets a little air on one side and bang… 2WD…hmmm.
Went to the AE version and it has lasted the longest, but the nut broke this time 2 weeks ago, (when a friend was using my car over several weeks).
I would be interested in how titanium goes... would have thought it would be weaker then high tensile steel... keep us posted please...
Went to the AE version and it has lasted the longest, but the nut broke this time 2 weeks ago, (when a friend was using my car over several weeks).
I would be interested in how titanium goes... would have thought it would be weaker then high tensile steel... keep us posted please...
11-30-2006, 05:08 PM
#6168
Originally Posted by AngryAsian
Hey Marcos.
Got a pic of your Cyclone with the mini Spekturm in it handy?
I pulled all the electronics out of the cyclone to try to reduce the amount of weight needed on the battery side.
I've got the GTB mounted on it's side right next to the topdeck now. I'd rather mount it flat per usual and hope that the mini fits in there without having to cut the ears off my servo and taping it down. (Don't like sticking things down in the car. Seems like it might move around. Esp. in sumemr when things get hot!)
Cheers!
Got a pic of your Cyclone with the mini Spekturm in it handy?
I pulled all the electronics out of the cyclone to try to reduce the amount of weight needed on the battery side.
I've got the GTB mounted on it's side right next to the topdeck now. I'd rather mount it flat per usual and hope that the mini fits in there without having to cut the ears off my servo and taping it down. (Don't like sticking things down in the car. Seems like it might move around. Esp. in sumemr when things get hot!)
Cheers!
11-30-2006, 05:17 PM
#6169
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
how are you guys building these diffs? I havent broke one yet ( and i know how to wreck!)
I use to build them tight as I run mod and didn't want any slip, but with all this going on I'm running them pretty loose... I don’t know any other way to build a diff other then to use fresh grease, new diff plates, new thrust plates and make sure its smooth…. Have I missed anything???
11-30-2006, 06:41 PM
#6172
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Marco - If you want black RW gears boil some water put in a pack of black Rit clothing dye, turn the heat off and let them sit in the hot water for ~5 min.
Oh...and don't use a pot your wife cares about
Oh...and don't use a pot your wife cares about
11-30-2006, 09:16 PM
#6174
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
how are you guys building these diffs? I havent broke one yet ( and i know how to wreck!)
11-30-2006, 09:30 PM
#6175
Originally Posted by Guo Chean
we broke the diff screw is because we tighten the diff until the diff do not slip. i never broke my diff screw if i did not tighten my diff too much but one thing is when i run mod it keep slip on rear diff. maybe i rebuild my diff wrongly if not i cannot keep break my diff screw. there was few driver saw my diff screw was broke on straight even i did not hit anything. since you not broke any screw can you share with us how do you build your diff in order to don't let it slip and it wont break the diff screw too. we will very appreciate it.
11-30-2006, 09:31 PM
#6176
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Marco - If you want black RW gears boil some water put in a pack of black Rit clothing dye, turn the heat off and let them sit in the hot water for ~5 min.
Oh...and don't use a pot your wife cares about
Oh...and don't use a pot your wife cares about
I used to do that when I ran my rc10 b2, I would make cool looking wheels before gluing up the tires.... and oh yeah get your own pot I used a roomates once on accident, man he was pi$$ed!!!! (glad I dont live with that nut-job anymore 
)I might be mistaken, but I think the boiling/dying process make the plastic a touch stonger, correct me if I'm wrong.
12-01-2006, 04:09 AM
#6177
2-Bad -
I will keep you posted, although the guy sold me this grade titanium due to its high tensile strength. Also, I could not find any hardened steel or any high grade steel for that matter. Im sure that AE didnt use anything special to make that screw. Its been around for a loooong time, they use it in any Stealth diff as well.
As for building the diffs, I have been building diffs a long time and I use the same lube as anyone else around here, I dont tighten them more than I have to. I go to the point that I can just barely slip it with my hands. I only broke screws when brushing a corner board under power enough to slow the car down, the diff would not let the diff slip to absorb the energy so it breaks the screw.....I refuse to run my diffs like a slipper clutch so I found a better replacement. Also I think the Aluminum diffs help too.
ALSO - I found a different Diff ring for the Cyclone. CRC makes them for their 12th scale.......same thickness as the HPI ring but super high quality and a Retail price of only $2 They are roughly .9 mm just like the HB I have rebuilt both diffs with them and they are excellent.
Vogan
I will keep you posted, although the guy sold me this grade titanium due to its high tensile strength. Also, I could not find any hardened steel or any high grade steel for that matter. Im sure that AE didnt use anything special to make that screw. Its been around for a loooong time, they use it in any Stealth diff as well.
As for building the diffs, I have been building diffs a long time and I use the same lube as anyone else around here, I dont tighten them more than I have to. I go to the point that I can just barely slip it with my hands. I only broke screws when brushing a corner board under power enough to slow the car down, the diff would not let the diff slip to absorb the energy so it breaks the screw.....I refuse to run my diffs like a slipper clutch so I found a better replacement. Also I think the Aluminum diffs help too.
ALSO - I found a different Diff ring for the Cyclone. CRC makes them for their 12th scale.......same thickness as the HPI ring but super high quality and a Retail price of only $2 They are roughly .9 mm just like the HB I have rebuilt both diffs with them and they are excellent.
Vogan
12-01-2006, 01:56 PM
#6178
Originally Posted by Chrisgt2
As for building the diffs, I have been building diffs a long time and I use the same lube as anyone else around here, I dont tighten them more than I have to. I go to the point that I can just barely slip it with my hands. I only broke screws when brushing a corner board under power enough to slow the car down, the diff would not let the diff slip to absorb the energy so it breaks the screw.....I refuse to run my diffs like a slipper clutch so I found a better replacement. Also I think the Aluminum diffs help too.
ALSO - I found a different Diff ring for the Cyclone. CRC makes them for their 12th scale.......same thickness as the HPI ring but super high quality and a Retail price of only $2 They are roughly .9 mm just like the HB I have rebuilt both diffs with them and they are excellent.
Vogan
ALSO - I found a different Diff ring for the Cyclone. CRC makes them for their 12th scale.......same thickness as the HPI ring but super high quality and a Retail price of only $2 They are roughly .9 mm just like the HB I have rebuilt both diffs with them and they are excellent.
Vogan
IMO it shouldn't matter how loose or tight the diff is... it shouldn't break. The diff tension is supposed to be a tuning aid, but for the Cyclone there seems to be one setting "loose".
Just for your info... the Losi diff rings also fit.... but I don't believe there any better or worse then the HPI ones...
12-01-2006, 04:58 PM
#6180
the problem with the diff is that the bolt pattern where the balls sit is too small in diameter.it requires more tension due to less leverage to keep the diff from slipping.what will help is if you scuff the rings to help keep the diff from slipping.