5LikesTeam Titan ARC R10 190mm EP Touring Car
08-15-2012, 03:34 PM
#106
Is there any place in the US where I can get one of these ARC R10 kits?
08-16-2012, 02:04 AM
#107
Hi, I have rebuilt the shocks on the R10 a couple of times now, but Iīm having a hard time getting anything else than 100% rebound, and I also find it a bit hard to get even rebound between the shocks.
Does anyone have some advice for building this type of shock?
I only have earlier experience with the 3Racing Sakura Zero Shocks, witch your first put the bladder on top of the fluid, then screw down the upper part of the shock.
Any help would be appreciated
Does anyone have some advice for building this type of shock?
I only have earlier experience with the 3Racing Sakura Zero Shocks, witch your first put the bladder on top of the fluid, then screw down the upper part of the shock.
Any help would be appreciated
The bladders need to be full seated into the caps before you build them.
I put the caps partially on with the shock fully extended, and at the same time push in the shock shaft, and tighten the cap, letting excess oil escape from the std vent hole in the alloy ring.
Tighten fully and check the rebound, if still too much, at full extension loosen the cap, and push the shaft back in slowly, letting more oil escape from the vent.
I still couldnt get minimal rebound, but was far less with the vent in the cap.
I was in a rush, will try and devise a better method next time.
08-16-2012, 02:15 AM
#108
Agree, the first time i rebuilt them i put a vent hole in the platic top.
The bladders need to be full seated into the caps before you build them.
I put the caps partially on with the shock fully extended, and at the same time push in the shock shaft, and tighten the cap, letting excess oil escape from the std vent hole in the alloy ring.
Tighten fully and check the rebound, if still too much, at full extension loosen the cap, and push the shaft back in slowly, letting more oil escape from the vent.
I still couldnt get minimal rebound, but was far less with the vent in the cap.
I was in a rush, will try and devise a better method next time.
The bladders need to be full seated into the caps before you build them.
I put the caps partially on with the shock fully extended, and at the same time push in the shock shaft, and tighten the cap, letting excess oil escape from the std vent hole in the alloy ring.
Tighten fully and check the rebound, if still too much, at full extension loosen the cap, and push the shaft back in slowly, letting more oil escape from the vent.
I still couldnt get minimal rebound, but was far less with the vent in the cap.
I was in a rush, will try and devise a better method next time.
Another thing I did to the shocks was drilling each piston hole to 1.5mm instead of the stock 1mm. That does not really affect the rebound but rather something I did so as to allow my damping to be lighter.
08-16-2012, 03:13 AM
#109
Drilling the upper cap helps a lot. I also tried to tighten slowly but as smoothly as possible so as to allow the oil to flow out from the vent. Doing so allowed me to get minimal rebound.
Another thing I did to the shocks was drilling each piston hole to 1.5mm instead of the stock 1mm. That does not really affect the rebound but rather something I did so as to allow my damping to be lighter.
Another thing I did to the shocks was drilling each piston hole to 1.5mm instead of the stock 1mm. That does not really affect the rebound but rather something I did so as to allow my damping to be lighter.
The associated guys often use a 3 hole 1.0 mm piston, and drill one hole to 1.5mm.
Most shocks are between 1.0 and 1.2mm, with the most common being 1.1mm but this is generally a difficult drill bit size to get hold of.
The kit 3 x 1.0mm and kit 500wt oil ends up with quite a heavy dampening, kit pistons and 350-400 oil feels quite nice.
I have not drilled my pistons to 1.1 yet.
08-16-2012, 03:19 AM
#110
Tech Rookie
Besercoe & Kail: Thanks! Iīll try your advice.
Iīm a bit sceptical of drilling the top cap, although i have never tried it. Iīll give it a shot when I get a extra set of shocks.
I see xray have a method in the manual of setting the rebound, like this:
Iīm a bit sceptical of drilling the top cap, although i have never tried it. Iīll give it a shot when I get a extra set of shocks.
I see xray have a method in the manual of setting the rebound, like this:
08-16-2012, 03:41 AM
#111
Dont be afraid to drill the shock cap, vented caps are basically the standard nowadays in all brands.
08-16-2012, 04:15 AM
#112
1.5mm is a massive jump.
The associated guys often use a 3 hole 1.0 mm piston, and drill one hole to 1.5mm.
Most shocks are between 1.0 and 1.2mm, with the most common being 1.1mm but this is generally a difficult drill bit size to get hold of.
The kit 3 x 1.0mm and kit 500wt oil ends up with quite a heavy dampening, kit pistons and 350-400 oil feels quite nice.
I have not drilled my pistons to 1.1 yet.
The associated guys often use a 3 hole 1.0 mm piston, and drill one hole to 1.5mm.
Most shocks are between 1.0 and 1.2mm, with the most common being 1.1mm but this is generally a difficult drill bit size to get hold of.
The kit 3 x 1.0mm and kit 500wt oil ends up with quite a heavy dampening, kit pistons and 350-400 oil feels quite nice.
I have not drilled my pistons to 1.1 yet.
However, upon testing, the 1.5mm pistons with 500 wt oil feels good
08-19-2012, 10:44 AM
#113
Just had my first run with the R10. Very happy.
First time ever running 17.5 blinky so I don't have a marker to compare to, but the balance of the car on kit settings was very, very good, a little tail happy when the track was cool and green in practice, but once the temps rose a bit the car was very balanced, very precise, and entirely neutral.
Tried a front gear diff with 500K oil in it in later rounds, this took some of the snappiness away from the initial turn-in and corner exit, just the way I like it. I've got the flex chassis set to hand but felt no need to try it.
It helps that conditions were good by UK standards; 25C ambient, track (www.cotswoldmodelcarclub.co.uk) pushing 40C as the day went on, so the BRCA Sorex 32RY control tyres were working well.
The build was very good, only issues were a burr on a spool outdrive which stopped the bearing going on correctly, and a bad batch of button-head screws with undersized hexes - cheap and easy to replace. No issues with the car on the day.
Only disappointment is that it is a shade heavy - 1440gm with regular weight Blitz XFR shell and fairly average electrics (Team Torke 6500 LiPO, HW Extreme Stock ESC, Futaba S9550 servo, Futaba R133F receiver, HPI Flux Pro motor). BRCA limit is 1350gm. Any tips on getting the weight down other than running a shorty LiPo? The car is very well balanced with these electrics, L/R within about 15gm, corner weights very even with no additional tweaking of the shock collars, would like to leave it like that!
First time ever running 17.5 blinky so I don't have a marker to compare to, but the balance of the car on kit settings was very, very good, a little tail happy when the track was cool and green in practice, but once the temps rose a bit the car was very balanced, very precise, and entirely neutral.
Tried a front gear diff with 500K oil in it in later rounds, this took some of the snappiness away from the initial turn-in and corner exit, just the way I like it. I've got the flex chassis set to hand but felt no need to try it.
It helps that conditions were good by UK standards; 25C ambient, track (www.cotswoldmodelcarclub.co.uk) pushing 40C as the day went on, so the BRCA Sorex 32RY control tyres were working well.
The build was very good, only issues were a burr on a spool outdrive which stopped the bearing going on correctly, and a bad batch of button-head screws with undersized hexes - cheap and easy to replace. No issues with the car on the day.
Only disappointment is that it is a shade heavy - 1440gm with regular weight Blitz XFR shell and fairly average electrics (Team Torke 6500 LiPO, HW Extreme Stock ESC, Futaba S9550 servo, Futaba R133F receiver, HPI Flux Pro motor). BRCA limit is 1350gm. Any tips on getting the weight down other than running a shorty LiPo? The car is very well balanced with these electrics, L/R within about 15gm, corner weights very even with no additional tweaking of the shock collars, would like to leave it like that!
08-22-2012, 04:10 PM
#115
08-23-2012, 04:22 PM
#116
thank you +1
08-28-2012, 09:48 AM
#117
Tech Rookie
Spring rates and suspension bracket combination chart
This was posted on the ARC driver group on Facebook.
Maybe someone here will find it useful.
Maybe someone here will find it useful.
08-28-2012, 09:53 AM
#118
Do you have a link to the ARC driver group? It's the second time I've seen it mentioned but I can't find it on Facebook.
08-28-2012, 11:20 AM
#119
Tech Rookie
08-29-2012, 05:01 AM
#120
Shorty pack
Have reset up my car to use shorty packs
The car in its last set up was a little fat but now well have a look
With a different tyres and body comes in just over 1380g the car has a better balance than before, was a little heavy on the electronics side.
The car feels a lot more stable to. The car has improved just need for the driver to do the same
The car in its last set up was a little fat but now well have a look
With a different tyres and body comes in just over 1380g the car has a better balance than before, was a little heavy on the electronics side.
The car feels a lot more stable to. The car has improved just need for the driver to do the same