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Old 12-30-2013, 02:03 AM
  #826  
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When I had traction roll issues on carpet, I ended up with a setup close to low grip asphalt which were:

Soft Springs - Blue frt / Pink rear
Thin shock oil - 200
Droop - Frt 5 / Rear 4

The rest I can't remember but pretty much stock.

Visit ARCs FB page the setup sheets are there.
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Old 12-30-2013, 08:49 AM
  #827  
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Originally Posted by sosidge
Droop setting is a big one and generally what I would look at first (apart from a simple one like decreasing steering rates). Less droop is less grip but don't go too far and pre-load the suspension, that will start the traction rolling again.
+1!
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Besercoe
Sounds like you need to make sure your speedie is calibrated correctly, a 5.5 on boost should be pretty smooth to drive.
Check the end points a calibrated properly.
increase the turbo delay
raise the rpm range
reduce the punch setting
i do like to add a little negative throttle expo to help even further, but dont go above 25% on steering or throttle, it takes away all the feel)
Hi Besercoe,

I'm using a HW 3.1 speedo and will do another recalibration cause if it was smooth to drive, I wouldn't feel like an on / off switch. Then again, I'm realistic as a medium skill driver that started this hobby in his 30's six years again and improving throttle muscle memory control is hard!

Originally Posted by Besercoe
A big change is the lower toe block spacing, the kit 1mm is relatively high, on really high traction, its good to drop it to 0.5mm, 0.3mm or even with no spacing. This is a common change for high traction tracks like TITC that i have been to.

Other brands do this also, the year Meen won with his Xray, he was running the -0.75mm roll centre blocks on his Xray, along with super soft 2.2 springs.
Lower toe block spacing you mean roll centre. That's still something I'm trying to get my mind around. My setup currently has 0mm front and 1mm rear. Springs I believe are 2.6 front and rear. Arc blues are only 2.6 I believe and that's the softest they make.

For the R10, can you actually go negative roll centres? I use the Martin Crisp App for reference. Front my understanding, the larger the distance from the inner upper links to the toe blocks/chassis OR less spacers on outer upper link arm EQUALS lower roll centre EQUALS more grip to a certain extent. And changing the toe blocks height creates a bigger roll centre change than the other two I think.

Originally Posted by skypilot
Seattle Washington, carpet, www.seattlercracers.com theres videos there and on youtube.


as to your stock TC gearing, undergearing will get the motor hot, I'm not saying this will happen for you, but for me and my experience, at motor that is under geared will run hot,(normal hot), gear it up a couple teeth and it will get cool, gear it up some more and it will get to normal hot again
Hi Skypilot,

You guys have a very nice race program. I've raced with Franko a couple times in Vancouver a few years ago and if you're as enthusiastic about car setup as him, I'll be very welcoming to your advice.

I'll have to show up at practice at my club more often to do the 2 minutes drive and test motor temps with different gearing. I only have 1 motor to play around with and I like my equipment to last.

Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya
Killshot= You can take it down to 3.6 easy. I have been to 3.4fdr on large pavement track. Keep timing in the 58* mark! I had same issues when going to mod trying other peoples esc and radio settings. Turn everything down then go up from there. Changing from slower classes to mod is a transition. It was for me.
Hi Josh,

I think you've given me this advice before. But since I'm on a 80x36 feet indoor ozite carpet, I've geared it down and will gear up and test slowly.

For mod speedo settings, I've just basically copied the fastest local racer at our club speedos settings. Sad part is I can drive his stock and mod car probably 0.1-0.2sec faster than mine in like 3 or 4 laps as his car is setup perfectly. But I'm excited to figure this stuff out on the track in my R10.

Originally Posted by sosidge
Droop setting is a big one and generally what I would look at first (apart from a simple one like decreasing steering rates). Less droop is less grip but don't go too far and pre-load the suspension, that will start the traction rolling again.
Hi Sosidge,

The funny thing is the last 2 years (before I got the R10 this season) I've actually been changing droop only and gotten my Top Photon to require only a rear droop change clockwise to limit forward weight transfer traction roll into the corner as qualifiers progress. I got it down to a science in that without any measurement tools. By the end of the mains, I'd just turn the droop screws back one turn counterclockwise and it would be ready for the next race. For the stock and superstock classes the last 2 years with the Top Photon, I was able to make all 26 A Mains in 13 races in our regional series (WCICS) in both classes doing this. I was also running 7 classes per race with no setup changes in any of the classes as obviously I had no time during race day. Crazy I know. This year I'm trying to learn about setup as in the past I was having the most fun with wheel time.

From my previous understanding was that as traction came up, traction rolling becomes a problem. I would decrease rear droop (clockwise turn) to reduce forward weight transfer to reduce front grip. I always had problems with mid corner on power steering on the photon but it was manageable.

Getting the R10 this year is a completely different handling car. And apparently talking to the faster racers at our club about setup, the R10 has massive front grip and to calm it down, actually softening the front and letting it roll (more rear droop) is actually the better thing to do.

I currently have droop 4 in the rear and 5 front and will definitely play around with this too.

Originally Posted by cyanyde
When I had traction roll issues on carpet, I ended up with a setup close to low grip asphalt which were:

Soft Springs - Blue frt / Pink rear
Thin shock oil - 200
Droop - Frt 5 / Rear 4

The rest I can't remember but pretty much stock.

Visit ARCs FB page the setup sheets are there.
Thanks Cyanyde,

I see you have a harder rear spring setup and a softer oil setup. Different than some of the advice here but it obviously worked for you. Something to also try if the other things I try don't work.

Thanks everyone again for your advice. Have a Happy New Year and looking forward to grow knowledge setup wise in this hobby.

Ivan
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Old 01-01-2014, 07:18 AM
  #829  
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Pink is softer than blue.

ARC R10 2013 spring rates (Short shocks):
Yellow - 3.0
Green - 2.8
Blue - 2.6
Pink - 2.4
Silver - 2.2
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by cyanyde
Pink is softer than blue.

ARC R10 2013 spring rates (Short shocks):
Yellow - 3.0
Green - 2.8
Blue - 2.6
Pink - 2.4
Silver - 2.2
My bad. I have the non-2013 R10 and the springs are from red (3.6), white (3.3), yellow (3.0), green (2.8) to blue (2.6). I thought you were talking about my red springs when you said pink.

In my case, I'm guessing I can't use the shorty springs so would the XRay 2.2 and 2.4 springs be something I should try? Anyone have a good conversion chart on different company's spring rate equivalents?

Thanks Cyanyde,

Ivan
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Old 01-01-2014, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by BoneCrusher
My bad. I have the non-2013 R10 and the springs are from red (3.6), white (3.3), yellow (3.0), green (2.8) to blue (2.6). I thought you were talking about my red springs when you said pink.

In my case, I'm guessing I can't use the shorty springs so would the XRay 2.2 and 2.4 springs be something I should try? Anyone have a good conversion chart on different company's spring rate equivalents?

Thanks Cyanyde,

Ivan
Xray and ARC rates are close to the same. 3.0 to 2.6 fronts and 2.8 to 2.4 rear work well for xray springs.
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Old 01-01-2014, 05:03 PM
  #832  
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If any one is looking for a ARC R10 2013. I am sell my's my local track is closing.
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Old 01-05-2014, 11:15 AM
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second outing with the car went much better. very happy, now for a little tweaking here and there.
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:11 PM
  #834  
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Originally Posted by skypilot
second outing with the car went much better. very happy, now for a little tweaking here and there.
Sounds like you saw the light. Lol!

This weekend qualified 2nd in VTA out of 12 cars. Got 1st in the main! Yay! Also went and played mod with the big boys. Ended up 6th but man was it fun. Racing against the best in the world. Last years and this years Reedy race of champions winners and other (Top) drivers (hint hint)!
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Old 01-05-2014, 01:57 PM
  #835  
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I had another fun race yesterday with the car. I am making steps in the right direction to find some more speed with the car and improved over last week. Problem is the top local is improving as well! Oh well. Still had a blast. Still getting asked "What car is that?"
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Old 01-05-2014, 01:59 PM
  #836  
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pic still not working right. haha
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Old 01-06-2014, 02:02 PM
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Congrats guys -- keep the grassroots movement alive!!!!
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Old 01-06-2014, 05:24 PM
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Can someone point me in the right direction for a starting point for gearing running a 25.5 motor in a VTA class on a medium to small track. I did not feel like reading 55 pages.
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Old 01-06-2014, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Hustins
Can someone point me in the right direction for a starting point for gearing running a 25.5 motor in a VTA class on a medium to small track. I did not feel like reading 55 pages.
That depends if there is a restriction on rollout at your track. My track has none and I am at 3.2ish on a large track. For your track I would start at 3.6ish. Big pinion and small spur have been working for me with this car.
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya
That depends if there is a restriction on rollout at your track. My track has none and I am at 3.2ish on a large track. For your track I would start at 3.6ish. Big pinion and small spur have been working for me with this car.
Thanks. My track does not have a FDR restriction so I will start from there. My car will be here next week.
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