howardcano

iTrader: (37)

That's hilarious! The Brits would probably call it "Roundabout Racing".

Rojna

SNOWBIRDS A Main Action

cdwilliams1

iTrader: (38)

Saturday Oval nights only for flagpole. Actual VTA runs on Wednesdays and Sundays :-)

rcsuicide

[QUOTE=howardcano;11775746]What would the Brits call this type of racing? ...
http://www.photobucket.com/media/Figure8race.mp4.html

Marv

iTrader: (2)

That one might qualify for an Allstate Mayhem commercial...

muahdib4

Anyone have any experience with the Tamiya TA05 for VTA? Put the front wheels on tonight and noticed that the upper camber link ball cup rubs the inside of the wheel. I'm running the required 0 degree offset HPI wheels. Am I going to need to run extended wheel hexes or is there a better fix? If I push the wheels out more I'm afraid they will stick outside of the front wheel wells. I'm running the HPI GT350 body. I can post pictures later but my iPad wont let me copy the URL when I put the pic in my album on here.

Marv

iTrader: (2)

You can try to file some off the top of the ball cup on an angle =
I had to do this with my S2 =



I'm using RPM 80202 6mm Hex Nut Adapters on the front with the zero offset vintage wheels so the rub was near the edge of the rim = I took a file to my RPM Ball End & I lightly sanded the inside of the wheel where it was rubbing.
I also marked the top of the ball end with a magic marker afterwards.

Racer X79

iTrader: (31)

I ran mine 2 different ways. Early on, I used the tamiya 1mm wheel shims to space the wheels out just enough to clear, I think it needed 2 on each side. Then, when the 416 came out I switched to 416/417 style c hubs and steering knuckles (I had a TA05R so it already had the lightweight suspension arms). Those give you proper clearance and you don't have to use spacers or 6mm wheel hexes. Either way works, but I preferred the c hubs/steering knuckle swap.

muahdib4

Thanks guys, I will play around with it and see what works best for me. I'm running a pretty much stock TA05 so don't have the lightweight suspension. Would the TRF parts still fit? If not, I will probably just shim them I guess. I don't like the idea of sanding the inner wheel...because I'm an idiot and would have the wheel balance all kinds of screwy.

rescue119

iTrader: (1)

on my ta05v2 i am running 5.5mm hex in the front and 7.7 mm hex in the back.. the 7.7mm hex are from a traxxas stampede



so far so good.

f1larry

iTrader: (22)

The rubbing issue is not a problem on the Version 2 of the TA05, it is a completely different front suspension. the version 2 the c hubs are shorter (smaller bearing) and fit in the wheel better.

I had the same issue on my TRF415 and TA05. had to shave the top of the ball joint as well as shave the inner edge of the wheel.

The other option is to put the Version 2 suspension on the car. The virsion 2 suspension is the same as the 416/417. You have to change the suspension arms, c hubs, uprights, and bearings. (TA05 bearing is a 11x5 the version 2 bearing is a 10x5)

bigtee

don't look like fun. might as well call it crash up derby rc

howardcano

iTrader: (37)

"Bidirectional Bangers"? Or maybe they'd just lump it in with "Yank Racing"?

Jeckler

iTrader: (6)

Marv,
Can we get a shot of the outside of the wheel? It looks like you blacked out the spokes and I'm wondering what the final result looks like.

Marv

iTrader: (2)

I used flat black Testor's Model Master paint and a brush...