Jerz616

iTrader: (49)

The HPI rears have 6mm of offset to get to the 200 rear width. All the HPI bodies fit great. Some of the others are not so great and are a little too wide.

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

190 +6+6=202 plus you have to consider that the wheel and tire are 31mm not 26. That's another 5mm on each side. The hpi vintage shells are actually 210 in the back 200 up front.

So the short answer is use the approved bodies on a 190mm chassis with the required wheels and tires and it will fit most of the time. HPI and Proline shells fit the best for me.

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

Got a question for you guys with bigger race programs. How do you folks generally handle arranging the class when you're working with both inexperienced and experienced drivers ?? For example: Given that you may not be able to fill a "novice" class....do you run VTA with both novice and experienced drivers ?? More important is young drivers. Do you crate a "youngster" class that may have only a couple of drivers or do you mix them with everybody else ??

My feeling has generally been that we're a club first so we all operate together regardless of skill level or age. That gives the newbie something to learn from "real time" and the experienced guys can actually see what the newbie is doing and offer help.

Thoughts ??

Ray Murray

I know I would re-arrange the heats so the faster drivers are in one heat, and the newer drivers are in another.

Also, you can put more experienced drivers in the faster heat (say 8-10), and fewer (say 4-5) in the slower heat, to give the newer drivers more space on the track.

I know this is pretty much setting up the mains before you even start, but all will be happier racing within their skill level.

If you only have one or two newbies, then you really have to mix them in and point them out (by car color) to the other racers, so they know there is a newbie or two in their heat. That way, they can pass with caution....LOL

bronc4now

iTrader: (43)

Ok thanks actually my car says its 188mm wide so it will be right at 200mm at the rear..
Next ?
I asked this in the sakura zero s tread but id like to see what some of you say .
Gearing for 25.5 vta ,so far I've heard with the vertical motor mount a can fit a 83t spur (smallest )and 40t pinion in 64 pitch ..does this sound right ?
What are you running? Thanks

Jerz616

iTrader: (49)

I run anywhere between a 3.32 fdr to a 3.66. I don't know what the internal ratio of your car is but my tc5 is a 2.0. So I run 88/53 or an 88/48. But starting with a 4.0 is a good start until you can see how your temps are. Start going down teeth on the spur and up on pinion tooth until your temps are between 140 and 150 degrees.

FauxMako

Run the appropriate wheels and tires with the appropriate bodies. They are designed to go together.

As far as FDR goes, 4.0 is the suggested starting point. You'll probably go lower from there, but the actual amount you go lower will depend on you car, your track and your ability.

The IDR on the Sakura depends on which pullies you are running -- stock is 20/38 for 1.9 IDR. Most people switch to the 19t pulley on the layshaft which gives you a 2.0 IDR.

Either way most switch to 64p gears to get more fine tuning of FDR.

I use a 64p 93t spur and between 46t and 52t pinions which gives me a range of 4.04 to 3.58 (I've got a 2.0 IDR).

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

Back from the Islands...what I miss?

wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

Yup, I've been there and done that. My first attempt at R/C car racing was with a 8T brushless motor in a Hot Bodies Cyclone TC with medium rubber (slick) tires. I knew it was too much for me to handle when I picked up my TC (for the 3rd time) after flying off the track and landing in the men's restroom. The 3rd time was when my CF chassis was cracked in two places. That's when I finally came to the conclusion that I should probably go slower.

Now if you're worried about "realistic speed" that would mimic the real V-8 powered muscle cars, then consider this. A 1/10 scale VTA car can reach speeds of 22 to 26mph on a carpet track. If you convert this scale speed to "real speed" you are looking at speeds between 220 to 260 mph. Have you ever seen a real V-8 powered U.S. Vintage Car go 220 mph?... I didn't think so.
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JustWill75

I'm running in USVTA with A EDGE and SS motor combo. I'm now considering gettig a Balistic 25.5 and just wanted to know if this is a faster motor? I've heard rumors that SS motors can be faster but it depends on the batch and I dont have the money to be out running through motors till I find that gem......

Are there any conditions where one motor might be better than the other. I curently race a mid sized technical track layout with a TC6.

Does everyone just crank the Timing all the way up on the ballistics or has anyone found that sweet spot.

wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

As far as motor speed is concerned in VTA, the SS and the Ballistic 25.5 are identical in speed. One benefit of the Ballistic motor is having the ability to change the sensor wire. Almost everybody who I race VTA with cranks the timing all the way to the last tick mark on the sticker. I found that the Ballistic motor temperature (after a 6-min race) will go up about 12°F when you crank up the timing to max. My lap times did not improve when I switched from the SS motor to the Ballistic (but that could also be due to friction between my car body and the boards )

cdwilliams1

iTrader: (38)

JustWill75

aarivers

iTrader: (13)

and if we really wanted to be anal about it we would be running F103GT's for the 2wd live axle feel of an old muscle car. Then these things really would be a handful.

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

I hate it when that happens. I was considering waxing the outside of my shell to lower the coefficient of friction between the boards and my shell. Have you tried that? I really dont have time to wax all of the boards. Plus that would benefit everyones lap times and not just mine.