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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

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Old 11-29-2012, 05:08 PM
  #2911  
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Default VTA

ooohh i can't wait. I've got a couple guys wanting them too.



Originally Posted by Mera'din
Here are some stickers I made for a VTA racer. He would like to advertise that his car is 100% USVTA rules compliant. Let me know if you are interested in showing your support for the USVTA rules and I can make some decals for you as well...and your track! I can make them in various colors as well. PM me for details.

Go VTA, it is the most popular class at our track.



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Old 11-29-2012, 05:15 PM
  #2912  
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For those of you asking...yes I can make these in a paint mask. Just think, you could do a whole stenciled look kinda like I did with the skulls but "VTA Legal" completely covering the body...



...Sure it wouldn't be a traditional race theme and possibly wouldn't fit the "Spirit of VTA" paint rule but there would be no doubt what was under the hood.
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Mera'din
For those of you asking...yes I can make these in a paint mask. Just think, you could do a whole stenciled look kinda like I did with the skulls but "VTA Legal" completely covering the body...



...Sure it wouldn't be a traditional race theme and possibly wouldn't fit the "Spirit of VTA" paint rule but there would be no doubt what was under the hood.
THATS fantastic! would love that for one of our "down under" themed vta races
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:21 PM
  #2914  
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Maybe Carl Seils can print us up something from this.
Attached Thumbnails U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-vtalegal.jpg  
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:37 PM
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Nice.
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:07 PM
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Anyone interested in coming to a really nice hobbyshop and great race event, wanted to bring up the 2013 Sweep Challenge at Middle River Hobbies and Raceway, happening January 5th and 6th. As of late we've been running USVTA minus drivers figure, I will clarify that as well as it says we are going by USVTA rules, however that would be the only difference if any.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/racing-f...lenge-mrh.html

Hotel info to come, there are a few local places that did group discounts last year, I will update ASAP with that info.
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:07 PM
  #2917  
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Just getting started in vintage class and was wondering which rim to use. i have a hot bodies tc chassis and plan on using the HPI mustang 350gt body 200mm. should i use the 0 offset or the 6mm offset rims.
we are starting the VTA Class in our club for 2013. we have about 12 guys building cars for this class.
thanks for any help that you guys can give.

thanks
bill
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:34 AM
  #2918  
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hey ive been watching this thread for quite some time and finally just got the ambition to convert the old tc3 to vta ready, its nice seeing it run again. my question is for the guys running the proform javelin body, what is the best way to secure the nose to the body? i want it to be strong and sturdy so it wont get ripped off the first time i get clipped or kiss a board, but i also want to be able to change it out when it gets mangled. any ideas?
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Old 11-30-2012, 01:02 AM
  #2919  
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Originally Posted by BILLSBOAT
Just getting started in vintage class and was wondering which rim to use. i have a hot bodies tc chassis and plan on using the HPI mustang 350gt body 200mm. should i use the 0 offset or the 6mm offset rims.
we are starting the VTA Class in our club for 2013. we have about 12 guys building cars for this class.
thanks for any help that you guys can give.

thanks
bill
The 0 offset rims are the front rims and the 6 offset are the rear rims they are also different widths. The fronts are 26mm and the rears are 31mm. Per the rules you have to use fronts in the front and rears in the rear so you cant use fronts all the way around or rears all the way around. Hope this helps and enjoy!!!

Originally Posted by nwv327
hey ive been watching this thread for quite some time and finally just got the ambition to convert the old tc3 to vta ready, its nice seeing it run again. my question is for the guys running the proform javelin body, what is the best way to secure the nose to the body? i want it to be strong and sturdy so it wont get ripped off the first time i get clipped or kiss a board, but i also want to be able to change it out when it gets mangled. any ideas?
Most guys use shoegoo to hold it in place then use screws and nuts to hold it together after that....two on each fender and 3 on the hood should do the job. You can also use some shoegoo and drywall tape after its screwed together for extra holding power if you want. Some also use servo tape and screws its up to you and how hard your boards are on how secure you need to make it.
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Old 11-30-2012, 01:53 AM
  #2920  
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Originally Posted by Kevin K
Most guys use shoegoo to hold it in place then use screws and nuts to hold it together after that....two on each fender and 3 on the hood should do the job. You can also use some shoegoo and drywall tape after its screwed together for extra holding power if you want. Some also use servo tape and screws its up to you and how hard your boards are on how secure you need to make it.
I just put together a new Javelin body and am trying only the screws this time. Seems to be holding up very well after a long race weekend at the indoor champs. I drilled holes slightly smaller than the screws so I could actually screw through the plastic and then secured with the included lock nuts. I used shoe goo on the last one and it worked fine also. You don't want any slop in the holes. The body should last a long time. My first one is over a year old now and still in use.
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:50 AM
  #2921  
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sweet thanks alot guys. also ive been going back and forth on batteries lately, i bought my chassis with a roar legal venom 2s1p 5000mah 40c green pack and was considering purchasing another one because of how much i like it until i read other posts about the packs being a 50/50 shot. just wondering what some of the better if not best roar legal 5000mah packs that are at least 35c (i plan on running these packs in other vehicles that require a higher c rating than my vta) looking for something that will last and have excellent power delivery
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:19 AM
  #2922  
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Their only 25c but I love my Wolfpack batteries
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:32 AM
  #2923  
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My personal favorite Lipo battery is the Trinity Titanium VTA-edition 5000mah 7.4V 50C. You can get them for $63 at this web page.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:46 AM
  #2924  
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[QUOTE=DontChangeUSVTA;11499937]My personal favorite Lipo battery is the Trinity Titanium VTA-edition 5000mah 7.4V 50C. You can get them for $63



You should try EAM's. Extremely consistent through the run and VERY punchy!
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:16 AM
  #2925  
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http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7719187

This CRC pack is the pack that just won VTA at the US Indoor Champs in Cleveland.
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