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Old 02-12-2012, 12:19 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
If you are having braking issues with 222 I want you to do the following:

After the update, perform a factory reset.

Install your esc setup via the hotwire,etc.

Calibrate your radio with 100/100 on the epa's. Radio calibrate.

Test your brakes.
When i was at the track yesterday i:
Did the update
Did do a factory reset
Recalibrated 100/100
Then it looked ok, but when i hit the high traction braking point it was just soft. i was being under braked by every other esc and guys still using 212, and before i used to set my calibration to 100/100 then turn transmitter down to 65% and still have TONS of brake. barely ever hit full.

So after the practice i redid the 222 update on the esc and did the update twice in a row before i made any changes. making double sure the software was installed. did all the re calibrations and didn't change a thing.

The third time i put 212 back on then redid the 222 update with still no success. but 3 other esc's using my laptop had no issues. i still have 1 more esc to update (cousins car) but he has the same driving style of me. and if he has my braking issues to I know he'll hate it.

4 confirmed braking problems with different pc's from where they got the update.
And I updated 4 esc's and only mine out of the 4 had issues.
is there any differences from a older rs and a new rs?
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:26 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta View Post
When i was at the track yesterday i:
Did the update
Did do a factory reset
Recalibrated 100/100
Then it looked ok, but when i hit the high traction braking point it was just soft. i was being under braked by every other esc and guys still using 212, and before i used to set my calibration to 100/100 then turn transmitter down to 65% and still have TONS of brake. barely ever hit full.

So after the practice i redid the 222 update on the esc and did the update twice in a row before i made any changes. making double sure the software was installed. did all the re calibrations and didn't change a thing.

The third time i put 212 back on then redid the 222 update with still no success. but 3 other esc's using my laptop had no issues. i still have 1 more esc to update (cousins car) but he has the same driving style of me. and if he has my braking issues to I know he'll hate it.

4 confirmed braking problems with different pc's from where they got the update.
And I updated 4 esc's and only mine out of the 4 had issues.
is there any differences from a older rs and a new rs?
No, nothing hardware will change here. Understand that the motor you use also affects braking.

So what's the entire setup? When you hit full brake do all led's light up and flash?
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:46 PM   #18
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No, nothing hardware will change here. Understand that the motor you use also affects braking.

So what's the entire setup? When you hit full brake do all led's light up and flash?
I'm using a outlaw 17.5 motor which i believe is just a slightly modded EPIC Duo III. esc is the rs. receiver and transmitter spektrum dx3, servo is a savox sc-1257, Thunder power 5200 50~100c Batts, 36/96 gearing with 2.0 final drive.

And yes all led light up and flash when i hit full throttle and brake.
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:59 PM   #19
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Also to add a note. Motor is brand new this year with only 8 race weekends on it
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Old 02-12-2012, 03:09 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta View Post
36/96 gearing with 2.0 final drive.
5.3 FDR is a bit low for boosted 17.5 at Lou's. I'm around 6.4. A lot of guys are around 7. Try a 29 or 30 tooth pinion. If you need more top end, add more turbo

It should help with the brakes, going up in fdr.
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:54 PM   #21
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5.3 FDR is a bit low for boosted 17.5 at Lou's. I'm around 6.4. A lot of guys are around 7. Try a 29 or 30 tooth pinion. If you need more top end, add more turbo

It should help with the brakes, going up in fdr.
It's what I've always ran, tons of bottom end and top end. come off at 140 consistently. I like running a taller gear and no timing.
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:22 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta;1031[COLOR="Red"
Where is it timed?[/COLOR]6521]I'm using a outlaw 17.5 motor which i believe is just a slightly modded EPIC Duo III.

36/96 gearing with 2.0 final drive.You mean internal gearing right?

And yes all led light up and flash when i hit full throttle and brake.
How big is your track?
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Old 02-13-2012, 11:28 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta View Post
I'm using a outlaw 17.5 motor which i believe is just a slightly modded EPIC Duo III. esc is the rs. receiver and transmitter spektrum dx3, servo is a savox sc-1257, Thunder power 5200 50~100c Batts, 36/96 gearing with 2.0 final drive.

And yes all led light up and flash when i hit full throttle and brake.
yes sorry 2.0 internal.

so approx 5.3 FDR

voltage cutoff 2s
drive mode sensored only
motor direction Normal
throttle profile Custom
current limit Off
throttle min 5
push control Off
drag brake Off
brake strength 100
reverse speed 0
neutral width 10
brake min 5

boost 55
start 3216
end 23000

turbo delay 0.05

turbo 20
ramp 3

Esc temp avg 90 Deg F
motor temps Avg 130-140 Deg F
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Old 02-13-2012, 11:38 AM   #24
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If i were to try more caps i would run them in parallel correct?
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Old 02-13-2012, 11:40 AM   #25
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What track do you race at? Those settings are way too high for any indoor track. It might not help your brakes but you have too much of everything IMO.

Also just for reference a motor with 8 weekends on it is far from brand new.
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:16 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta View Post
If i were to try more caps i would run them in parallel correct?
Just wondering, are you currently running the cap that Tekin provides, or a different value in any way? Whether its Farad rating, voltage or low ESR or not.

I had a strange loss of brakes from running a rather large valued cap, thinking I would eliminate any problems from surges. I could never get any brakes at all with any settings on the esc or transmitter. I was running stock 1/12th with that particular set-up, so it really wasn't too much of a problem as I don't use brakes, except when gridding up, but that turned out to be the culprit. I was trying a 1/2 farad super cap. So more was not better in that case. Not sure if Ty or someone at Tekin could confirm, but its one more possibility. I realize that you did not have problems before the update, so this may have no connection to what is happening for you. Everyone I have been around that has updated, has had the opposite if anything, the need to take out brakes.
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Last edited by oldrcr; 02-13-2012 at 12:28 PM.
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:49 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta View Post
yes sorry 2.0 internal.

so approx 5.3 FDR

voltage cutoff 2s
drive mode sensored only
motor direction Normal
throttle profile Custom
current limit Off
throttle min 5
push control Off
drag brake Off
brake strength 100
reverse speed 0
neutral width 10
brake min 5

boost 55
start 3216
end 23000

turbo delay 0.05

turbo 20
ramp 3

Esc temp avg 90 Deg F
motor temps Avg 130-140 Deg F
i would deffinately try gearing down that seems really high and maybe a slight less amount of turbo. also double check that you have your endbell timing at 0. those should help you with the brakes. i have ran this software now for a while and i have had very good success with the brakes. only other thing that it could be is a bad cap make sure the cap is good as well.
thanks Jason
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:58 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta View Post
yes sorry 2.0 internal.

so approx 5.3 FDR

boost 55
start 3216
end 23000

turbo delay 0.05

turbo 20
ramp 3

Esc temp avg 90 Deg F
motor temps Avg 130-140 Deg F
While your motor temps are fine this setup is over doing the track especially with the gearing. Try turbo delay .15, 10 turbo boost, 2.0 ramp rate,45-50 on boost.

You still didn't tell me where the motors mechanical timing is set?
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:59 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace View Post
What track do you race at? Those settings are way too high for any indoor track. It might not help your brakes but you have too much of everything IMO.

Also just for reference a motor with 8 weekends on it is far from brand new.
I Guess 8 weekends does sound like a lot, usually i buy used motors since im a budget racer. but i only run 2 quals and a main and maybe 10 practice laps per week. so for me just over 30 runs is considered pretty new. the esc i have is now 3yrs old. last week i finally bought my first set of tires after running 7 weekends on them including like 5 weekends or so from last year

and i raced at lou's speedway. i originally had boost at 55 and turbo at 15 with 2 ramp. but when 222 came out the throttle was smooth enough i could keep the car on the track at max. and at that track the only spot i ever really hit full throttle was the straightaway.
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Old 02-13-2012, 01:01 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by oldrcr View Post
Just wondering, are you currently running the cap that Tekin provides, or a different value in any way? Whether its Farad rating, voltage or low ESR or not.

I had a strange loss of brakes from running a rather large valued cap, thinking I would eliminate any problems from surges. I could never get any brakes at all with any settings on the esc or transmitter. I was running stock 1/12th with that particular set-up, so it really wasn't too much of a problem as I don't use brakes, except when gridding up, but that turned out to be the culprit. I was trying a 1/2 farad super cap. So more was not better in that case. Not sure if Ty or someone at Tekin could confirm, but its one more possibility. I realize that you did not have problems before the update, so this may have no connection to what is happening for you. Everyone I have been around that has updated, has had the opposite if anything, the need to take out brakes.
I'm running a single cap that comes with the tekin when you get it.
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