209LikesExotek F1R
09-14-2016, 03:35 PM
#2206
Just finished building the F1. The fit and finish is really nice and the material exotek used is really high quality. I just wish the ride height adjustment for the front is a little bit easier to adjust. I had to disconnect the top arm to gain adequate grip on the shock body to increase or decrease ride height. The holes on the bottom of the shock which Im guessing is for you to insert a pin to turn the shocks, but its still pretty hard to access it.
The instructions isnt as clear at some points and I often had to look at pictures on the website to see how parts went together. For example, there are shims under the "ball joint post" and on the lower arm ball joint for the shock in the pictures, but the manual did not say anything about those.
All in all im pretty pleased, Cant wait to take it out to the track and test it out.
The long ass sensor wire is only temporary until I can get a shorter one.
The instructions isnt as clear at some points and I often had to look at pictures on the website to see how parts went together. For example, there are shims under the "ball joint post" and on the lower arm ball joint for the shock in the pictures, but the manual did not say anything about those.
All in all im pretty pleased, Cant wait to take it out to the track and test it out.
The long ass sensor wire is only temporary until I can get a shorter one.
On my F1R3 IFS Shocks, I have very short 4.8mm ballstuds on the front arms and i ordered 3racing 4.8mm ballstud ends and cut them down with varying lengths. I have the originals ball stud ends for carpet and cut longer sets for asphalt. Then if i need to raise height, I install one of the 3 different thickness TOP RC rear axle spacers to raise ride height
idbdoug
09-14-2016, 05:36 PM
#2207
Just finished building the F1. The fit and finish is really nice and the material exotek used is really high quality. I just wish the ride height adjustment for the front is a little bit easier to adjust. I had to disconnect the top arm to gain adequate grip on the shock body to increase or decrease ride height. The holes on the bottom of the shock which Im guessing is for you to insert a pin to turn the shocks, but its still pretty hard to access it.
The instructions isnt as clear at some points and I often had to look at pictures on the website to see how parts went together. For example, there are shims under the "ball joint post" and on the lower arm ball joint for the shock in the pictures, but the manual did not say anything about those.
All in all im pretty pleased, Cant wait to take it out to the track and test it out.
The long ass sensor wire is only temporary until I can get a shorter one.
The instructions isnt as clear at some points and I often had to look at pictures on the website to see how parts went together. For example, there are shims under the "ball joint post" and on the lower arm ball joint for the shock in the pictures, but the manual did not say anything about those.
All in all im pretty pleased, Cant wait to take it out to the track and test it out.
The long ass sensor wire is only temporary until I can get a shorter one.
Are you going to run carpet or asphalt?
You can change shims around on the front steer knuckles to adjust ride height as well, just like on the stock F104.
To adjust ride height via the front dampers you can use a simple 1.5mm allen key that comes with most kits and we normally throw away. The short 'L' shape works great to reach in the small space.
09-14-2016, 06:24 PM
#2208
Try TOP racing rear axle spacers(2mm,1mm, and 0.5mm) or something similar. I will post a pick with one installed on 1 side of the car.
On my F1R3 IFS Shocks, I have very short 4.8mm ballstuds on the front arms and i ordered 3racing 4.8mm ballstud ends and cut them down with varying lengths. I have the originals ball stud ends for carpet and cut longer sets for asphalt. Then if i need to raise height, I install one of the 3 different thickness TOP RC rear axle spacers to raise ride height
idbdoug
On my F1R3 IFS Shocks, I have very short 4.8mm ballstuds on the front arms and i ordered 3racing 4.8mm ballstud ends and cut them down with varying lengths. I have the originals ball stud ends for carpet and cut longer sets for asphalt. Then if i need to raise height, I install one of the 3 different thickness TOP RC rear axle spacers to raise ride height
idbdoug
Car looks great!
Are you going to run carpet or asphalt?
You can change shims around on the front steer knuckles to adjust ride height as well, just like on the stock F104.
To adjust ride height via the front dampers you can use a simple 1.5mm allen key that comes with most kits and we normally throw away. The short 'L' shape works great to reach in the small space.
Are you going to run carpet or asphalt?
You can change shims around on the front steer knuckles to adjust ride height as well, just like on the stock F104.
To adjust ride height via the front dampers you can use a simple 1.5mm allen key that comes with most kits and we normally throw away. The short 'L' shape works great to reach in the small space.
I tried the allan key method which worked, Thanks. But the hole is a tad smaller than 1.5mm. I had to find something smaller to get it to work.
09-14-2016, 07:44 PM
#2209
Ah, so thats what those blue rings on the shock is for. I always thought there was an option from exotek to adjust ride height but couldnt find it in the store.
Im going to be running asphalt mostly.
I tried the allan key method which worked, Thanks. But the hole is a tad smaller than 1.5mm. I had to find something smaller to get it to work.
Im going to be running asphalt mostly.
I tried the allan key method which worked, Thanks. But the hole is a tad smaller than 1.5mm. I had to find something smaller to get it to work.
My damper nylon ends are so worn in and greased that I can adjust ride height with 2 fingers now haha.
09-14-2016, 08:19 PM
#2210
Ah, so thats what those blue rings on the shock is for. I always thought there was an option from exotek to adjust ride height but couldnt find it in the store.
Im going to be running asphalt mostly.
I tried the allan key method which worked, Thanks. But the hole is a tad smaller than 1.5mm. I had to find something smaller to get it to work.
Im going to be running asphalt mostly.
I tried the allan key method which worked, Thanks. But the hole is a tad smaller than 1.5mm. I had to find something smaller to get it to work.
http://www.exotekracing.com/f1-ifs-m...damper-rods-2/
idbdoug
09-14-2016, 10:32 PM
#2211
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Just finished building the F1. The fit and finish is really nice and the material exotek used is really high quality. I just wish the ride height adjustment for the front is a little bit easier to adjust. I had to disconnect the top arm to gain adequate grip on the shock body to increase or decrease ride height. The holes on the bottom of the shock which Im guessing is for you to insert a pin to turn the shocks, but its still pretty hard to access it.
The instructions isnt as clear at some points and I often had to look at pictures on the website to see how parts went together. For example, there are shims under the "ball joint post" and on the lower arm ball joint for the shock in the pictures, but the manual did not say anything about those.
All in all im pretty pleased, Cant wait to take it out to the track and test it out.
The long ass sensor wire is only temporary until I can get a shorter one.
The instructions isnt as clear at some points and I often had to look at pictures on the website to see how parts went together. For example, there are shims under the "ball joint post" and on the lower arm ball joint for the shock in the pictures, but the manual did not say anything about those.
All in all im pretty pleased, Cant wait to take it out to the track and test it out.
The long ass sensor wire is only temporary until I can get a shorter one.
09-20-2016, 03:40 AM
#2212
So had my first shakedown run this past weekend. The car felt pretty good but the setup needs a bit of work. The track I was on is an asphalt track so it was a bit bumpy. I used 40wt oil in the shock and 15000 diff oil in the front dampers and it was pretty bouncy. I didnt have any shock oil on hand so I couldnt change to a slightly thicker oil, but asked around for 30k damper oil for the front. That calmed the car down a bit and didnt bounce that much.
My initial setup was 5mm ride height F and R. Camber is around -1 and the caster I went by eye and I would say around around 2 degrees. Droop is around 1mm as per the instructions and Im using the black front springs that came with the kit. I had the steering linkage in the lower position on the bell crank steering setup and the front axle is in the trailing position as a baseline. I have the Yokomo/Montec ETS front and rear wing and Im running Ride (Non XR) front and rear tires. The car felt pretty good at first, initial turn in was responsive but pushed quit a bit if I carried any speed through the corner. The car would over-steer at long sweeper at the end of the straight if I let off the throttle completely (This might have to do with too much drag brake, tho). It the tire squealed quite a bit too. Its expected to squeal a bit during hard corners, but slight steering correction would squeal the tires as well.
Any tips on improving the under-steer on asphalt would be appreciated.
My initial setup was 5mm ride height F and R. Camber is around -1 and the caster I went by eye and I would say around around 2 degrees. Droop is around 1mm as per the instructions and Im using the black front springs that came with the kit. I had the steering linkage in the lower position on the bell crank steering setup and the front axle is in the trailing position as a baseline. I have the Yokomo/Montec ETS front and rear wing and Im running Ride (Non XR) front and rear tires. The car felt pretty good at first, initial turn in was responsive but pushed quit a bit if I carried any speed through the corner. The car would over-steer at long sweeper at the end of the straight if I let off the throttle completely (This might have to do with too much drag brake, tho). It the tire squealed quite a bit too. Its expected to squeal a bit during hard corners, but slight steering correction would squeal the tires as well.
Any tips on improving the under-steer on asphalt would be appreciated.
09-20-2016, 08:21 AM
#2213
disaster999, try the following:
1) if you have 2' of caster, you will have very aggressive turn in, but push on corner exit, try more caster (in the 9', or even 12' range.)
2) try a harder front spring (the grey works well)
3) if the track was bumpy, try 35wt in the center shock, and a softer shock spring
4) put more preload on the side spring, so the rear axle stays in contact with the ground in turns
Overall, going to much more caster in the front will probably make the biggest difference. Once you go to more caster, you might want to move the steering inline.
It's a neat car with many adjustments.
One more thing, make sure the caster and camber are equal left to right by measuring each respective turnbuckles end to end.
1) if you have 2' of caster, you will have very aggressive turn in, but push on corner exit, try more caster (in the 9', or even 12' range.)
2) try a harder front spring (the grey works well)
3) if the track was bumpy, try 35wt in the center shock, and a softer shock spring
4) put more preload on the side spring, so the rear axle stays in contact with the ground in turns
Overall, going to much more caster in the front will probably make the biggest difference. Once you go to more caster, you might want to move the steering inline.
It's a neat car with many adjustments.
One more thing, make sure the caster and camber are equal left to right by measuring each respective turnbuckles end to end.
09-20-2016, 08:35 AM
#2214
Also what are the tires that the fastest guys are using for your track? Correct tires are still about 90% of the set up.
Locally on asphalt the best tires are shimizu 72 in rear and tamiya kit tires in front but then up north the best tires are shimizu 72 in the rear with shimizu 71 in the front. It depends greatly on the track surface.
On warm asphalt it seems shimizu 72 rear is pretty standard for max rear grip and then you change the front tires to tune in for more or less steering.
Cold weather is usually shimizu 75 rears with different combinations of front tires to tune.
Locally on asphalt the best tires are shimizu 72 in rear and tamiya kit tires in front but then up north the best tires are shimizu 72 in the rear with shimizu 71 in the front. It depends greatly on the track surface.
On warm asphalt it seems shimizu 72 rear is pretty standard for max rear grip and then you change the front tires to tune in for more or less steering.
Cold weather is usually shimizu 75 rears with different combinations of front tires to tune.
09-20-2016, 06:45 PM
#2215
disaster999, try the following:
1) if you have 2' of caster, you will have very aggressive turn in, but push on corner exit, try more caster (in the 9', or even 12' range.)
2) try a harder front spring (the grey works well)
3) if the track was bumpy, try 35wt in the center shock, and a softer shock spring
4) put more preload on the side spring, so the rear axle stays in contact with the ground in turns
Overall, going to much more caster in the front will probably make the biggest difference. Once you go to more caster, you might want to move the steering inline.
It's a neat car with many adjustments.
One more thing, make sure the caster and camber are equal left to right by measuring each respective turnbuckles end to end.
1) if you have 2' of caster, you will have very aggressive turn in, but push on corner exit, try more caster (in the 9', or even 12' range.)
2) try a harder front spring (the grey works well)
3) if the track was bumpy, try 35wt in the center shock, and a softer shock spring
4) put more preload on the side spring, so the rear axle stays in contact with the ground in turns
Overall, going to much more caster in the front will probably make the biggest difference. Once you go to more caster, you might want to move the steering inline.
It's a neat car with many adjustments.
One more thing, make sure the caster and camber are equal left to right by measuring each respective turnbuckles end to end.
Also what are the tires that the fastest guys are using for your track? Correct tires are still about 90% of the set up.
Locally on asphalt the best tires are shimizu 72 in rear and tamiya kit tires in front but then up north the best tires are shimizu 72 in the rear with shimizu 71 in the front. It depends greatly on the track surface.
On warm asphalt it seems shimizu 72 rear is pretty standard for max rear grip and then you change the front tires to tune in for more or less steering.
Cold weather is usually shimizu 75 rears with different combinations of front tires to tune.
Locally on asphalt the best tires are shimizu 72 in rear and tamiya kit tires in front but then up north the best tires are shimizu 72 in the rear with shimizu 71 in the front. It depends greatly on the track surface.
On warm asphalt it seems shimizu 72 rear is pretty standard for max rear grip and then you change the front tires to tune in for more or less steering.
Cold weather is usually shimizu 75 rears with different combinations of front tires to tune.
Its pretty standard to run the Ride tires as track temps gets as hot as 40-50c and back down to 30c at night currently. If I have more time Ill go and experiment with tire combos
10-06-2016, 12:27 PM
#2216
Tech Master
iTrader: (22)
Need some input,
I have an F1R2 run on CRC Black carpet, thinking of going to a F1R3.
What is the advantages on the R3 over R2. Aluminum or carbon chassi?
Steel or graphite rear shaft, currently running carbon.
Should I buy the R3 kit or use my parts?
Any help would be great.
I have an F1R2 run on CRC Black carpet, thinking of going to a F1R3.
What is the advantages on the R3 over R2. Aluminum or carbon chassi?
Steel or graphite rear shaft, currently running carbon.
Should I buy the R3 kit or use my parts?
Any help would be great.
10-07-2016, 04:39 PM
#2217
Tech Adept
For carpet setup, the aluminum chassis is the hot ticket. Then you'll also need the F1R3 replacement small plates:
http://www.exotekracing.com/f1r3-rep...mall-plates-4/
that will allow you to run the battery sidways. You could get all of the above and still run the battery longitudinally, then switch it to sideways which the R3 will let you, so you can drive and feel the difference.
The F1R3 conversion kit is about $165. The aluminum chassis and small carbon plates comes out to $73. You might need the F1R3 battery post but it looks dimensionally identical to the R2 battery post.
Other than that, it looks (from pics at least) that the R2 and R3 share the same aluminum bits and rear pod (and maybe the rear pod plate too), front suspension, and rear axle (which in my case are still the Tamiya F104 items). I did have to add a spacer to the front suspension because the aluminum chassis is thinner than the carbon.
http://www.exotekracing.com/f1r3-rep...mall-plates-4/
that will allow you to run the battery sidways. You could get all of the above and still run the battery longitudinally, then switch it to sideways which the R3 will let you, so you can drive and feel the difference.
The F1R3 conversion kit is about $165. The aluminum chassis and small carbon plates comes out to $73. You might need the F1R3 battery post but it looks dimensionally identical to the R2 battery post.
Other than that, it looks (from pics at least) that the R2 and R3 share the same aluminum bits and rear pod (and maybe the rear pod plate too), front suspension, and rear axle (which in my case are still the Tamiya F104 items). I did have to add a spacer to the front suspension because the aluminum chassis is thinner than the carbon.
Need some input,
I have an F1R2 run on CRC Black carpet, thinking of going to a F1R3.
What is the advantages on the R3 over R2. Aluminum or carbon chassi?
Steel or graphite rear shaft, currently running carbon.
Should I buy the R3 kit or use my parts?
Any help would be great.
I have an F1R2 run on CRC Black carpet, thinking of going to a F1R3.
What is the advantages on the R3 over R2. Aluminum or carbon chassi?
Steel or graphite rear shaft, currently running carbon.
Should I buy the R3 kit or use my parts?
Any help would be great.
10-07-2016, 04:48 PM
#2218
For carpet setup, the aluminum chassis is the hot ticket. Then you'll also need the F1R3 replacement small plates:
http://www.exotekracing.com/f1r3-rep...mall-plates-4/
that will allow you to run the battery sidways. You could get all of the above and still run the battery longitudinally, then switch it to sideways which the R3 will let you, so you can drive and feel the difference.
The F1R3 conversion kit is about $165. The aluminum chassis and small carbon plates comes out to $73. You might need the F1R3 battery post but it looks dimensionally identical to the R2 battery post.
Other than that, it looks (from pics at least) that the R2 and R3 share the same aluminum bits and rear pod (and maybe the rear pod plate too), front suspension, and rear axle (which in my case are still the Tamiya F104 items). I did have to add a spacer to the front suspension because the aluminum chassis is thinner than the carbon.
http://www.exotekracing.com/f1r3-rep...mall-plates-4/
that will allow you to run the battery sidways. You could get all of the above and still run the battery longitudinally, then switch it to sideways which the R3 will let you, so you can drive and feel the difference.
The F1R3 conversion kit is about $165. The aluminum chassis and small carbon plates comes out to $73. You might need the F1R3 battery post but it looks dimensionally identical to the R2 battery post.
Other than that, it looks (from pics at least) that the R2 and R3 share the same aluminum bits and rear pod (and maybe the rear pod plate too), front suspension, and rear axle (which in my case are still the Tamiya F104 items). I did have to add a spacer to the front suspension because the aluminum chassis is thinner than the carbon.
Last edited by MikeR; 10-08-2016 at 08:18 AM.