R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-04-2014, 08:18 AM   #31
Tech Adept
 
zephuros's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 197
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

BJS414,

I so agree with you. Getting the setup right is mega rewarding with these cars and makes for super close racing. My fav part really is the "scale" look go the body shells. Awesome!


Mark las,

Same here in Malaysia. We are restricted to Speed Passion Reventon SCR and SP v3 17.5 motors. Mind you, they're not that slow! I think it's just right for this class of car!
__________________
__________________

==============
awww bollox....
zephuros is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2014, 11:36 AM   #32
Tech Apprentice
 
Marklas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Denmark
Posts: 85
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by zephuros View Post
Marklas:

2.6:1. Depending on the length of your track, on a 17.5 non boosted anywhere between FDR of 3.0 and 4.0, depending of course on your race rules. Here in Malaysia there is one race on the calnedar where we run on a fairly long track and for that i even go down as low as 2.9. Watch it tho as heat builds up substantially in the motor.

You'll need incredibly small spurs and massive pinion for that. Get a 76T 64p spur from TOP. You can get monster size pinions (largest i have is a 70T) from Xenon.

Another thing you can do is to use taller ratios and learn to carry speed in corners - big advantage here is that you reduce wheelspin and preserve your tires!
About the motor heat - Can you rum longer heats than 5 min? In the old M-chassis class we was running 10min but not sure how long we can run in the new FWD class here in Denmark. Does not want to kill the motors to fast.
__________________
/Mark
Marklas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2014, 03:15 PM   #33
Tech Adept
 
zephuros's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 197
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marklas View Post
About the motor heat - Can you rum longer heats than 5 min? In the old M-chassis class we was running 10min but not sure how long we can run in the new FWD class here in Denmark. Does not want to kill the motors to fast.
Yup. We run 5 minute heats but the finals are 7 mins! With air temps in the 30s and track temps exceeding 50C a big fan is a must, and with that and a gentle throttle finger will help preserve motors quite nicely.
__________________
__________________

==============
awww bollox....
zephuros is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2014, 12:27 PM   #34
Tech Apprentice
 
Marklas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Denmark
Posts: 85
Default

__________________
/Mark
Marklas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2014, 05:12 AM   #35
Tech Elite
 
dan_vector's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 3,925
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marklas View Post
Nice!
__________________
Serpent Viper 977e EVO2, Serpent Viper 988 GP, Serpent Project 4x, Serpent 811T-TE Truggy, Serpent 811e 2.1, Serpent SRX2-MH, Serpent SRX-2 RM, Serpent SRX-4, Serpent F110-SF2, Serpent F180, Serpent 748 Natrix WC, Serpent Cobra GT 3.1, Serpent SRX8, Serpent S811 2.2, Baja 5B Flux, Atomic AMZ 1/27th, Schumacher GT12 SS.
Sanwa, Ielasi Tuned Novarossi Racing Engines, Tekin, Hobbywing, Muchmore.
dan_vector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2014, 01:23 PM   #36
Tech Apprentice
 
Marklas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Denmark
Posts: 85
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by zephuros View Post
Marklas:

2.6:1. Depending on the length of your track, on a 17.5 non boosted anywhere between FDR of 3.0 and 4.0, depending of course on your race rules. Here in Malaysia there is one race on the calnedar where we run on a fairly long track and for that i even go down as low as 2.9. Watch it tho as heat builds up substantially in the motor.

You'll need incredibly small spurs and massive pinion for that. Get a 76T 64p spur from TOP. You can get monster size pinions (largest i have is a 70T) from Xenon.

Another thing you can do is to use taller ratios and learn to carry speed in corners - big advantage here is that you reduce wheelspin and preserve your tires!
Just getting ready for the 2014 season. Just got the TOP 76T but a pinion under 63T can not reach the spur. What others spurs do you use?
Also need so find some other shrews for the motor so the pinion does not touch then.
__________________
/Mark
Marklas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2014, 03:30 AM   #37
Tech Regular
 
svndayNZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Auckland
Posts: 443
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Ive recently setup my S411 FF and i've run 2 packs through it and the stability and direction of the car, well to say the least i just can't get rite, its slides and slimes around the place, swaps direction when not on power.

I've tried laying the springs down in the rear but it its still slippery as anything.

Any advice on how to get this thing dialled? the track i run at is not considered a low grip track and i had fresh Ride 26's on it. So i've eliminated those options.

Any advice is recommended
svndayNZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2014, 05:21 AM   #38
Tech Regular
 
svndayNZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Auckland
Posts: 443
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

also mean appreciate and recommendation
svndayNZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2014, 01:53 PM   #39
Tech Apprentice
 
Marklas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Denmark
Posts: 85
Default

My gears only last about 60 laps on the dusty nitro tracks... Any hint to cover up the gears to project them?
__________________
/Mark
Marklas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2014, 11:02 PM   #40
Tech Adept
 
zephuros's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 197
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Marklas,

I typically run 76/64 or 76/67 and have no issues with meshing. I guess you'll have to go ever so slightly bigger if clearance is an issue. TOP makes a 76, 78, 80, 82, 84 and 88. I have most of them in my bag at all times!

Also I have a plastic cover to close up the gears. Will take a picture of it later and post. But, the diff and counter gears still get shredded after a while. No running away from that. Sadly.

SvndayNZ, post your setup here. Let's have a look. Ps, what springs you using? I have Ride yellow and write (260&248) I think and that works fine. Kit springs are a tad hard, but will work fine on a high grip track. Also, what boys shell are you running? Makes a big difference. The Tamiya Scirocco works best for me. Have tried the Honda CRZ and that was crap. Try driving the car around the same track without the body and see if it makes a difference.
__________________
__________________

==============
awww bollox....
zephuros is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2014, 04:10 PM   #41
Tech Regular
 
svndayNZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Auckland
Posts: 443
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

zephuros thanks, one of the local hobby shops here distributes Serpent i took it in to them. issues I had was overstear and a low traction back end so if you think of trying to correct oversear with a fishy back end it looks like a snake slimming up the track.

I had far too thin diff lube up the front, i had Muchmore 1000 as opposed to the kit 300.000. so i've swapped those around, i also had the sway bars setup wrong. I've replaced the Speed Passion civic body shell which was crap for a Tamiya Beams Integra. So I expect it'll do a lot better now
svndayNZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2014, 12:25 AM   #42
Tech Adept
 
zephuros's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 197
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

SvndayNZ,

Glad to know you're all sorted now. I use putty in my diff and that works quite well for me. Also, I don't use sway bars on my car. It seems to work just fine without them.

Body shells - yes the BEAmS Integra was pretty good. I used that before. Sadly it's all thrashed up now and I can't use it. Will try to look for a new one. Try the scirocco if you get the chance. It seems to be the best out there, and I now only use it, and nothing else. You WILL like it hehe
__________________
__________________

==============
awww bollox....
zephuros is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2017, 02:04 PM   #43
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Bandung, West Java, Indonesia
Posts: 8
Default Serpent s411ff

Hi snake friend...i wanna ask some question about s411ff.
I have a s411ff and want to change shock tower to a lower shock tower like s411 and floating servo. And my question is:
1. Is lower shock tower s411 can use in s411ff ??? Because many parts s411 similar with s411ff.

2. Anybody here know how to improve floating servo in s411ff ??? Or just use carbon servo holder in s411 eryx 2.0???

Thanks a lot
QiuYanBao is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2017, 08:44 PM   #44
Tech Elite
 
dan_vector's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 3,925
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

I think the lower shock towers may mount to the bulkheads but will foul on the spur gear in the front so you may need to dremel the tower quite a bit to get it to fit. I don't think the floating servo mount will fit without drilling the chassis.
__________________
Serpent Viper 977e EVO2, Serpent Viper 988 GP, Serpent Project 4x, Serpent 811T-TE Truggy, Serpent 811e 2.1, Serpent SRX2-MH, Serpent SRX-2 RM, Serpent SRX-4, Serpent F110-SF2, Serpent F180, Serpent 748 Natrix WC, Serpent Cobra GT 3.1, Serpent SRX8, Serpent S811 2.2, Baja 5B Flux, Atomic AMZ 1/27th, Schumacher GT12 SS.
Sanwa, Ielasi Tuned Novarossi Racing Engines, Tekin, Hobbywing, Muchmore.
dan_vector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2017, 06:05 PM   #45
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 8
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by QiuYanBao View Post
Hi snake friend...i wanna ask some question about s411ff.
I have a s411ff and want to change shock tower to a lower shock tower like s411 and floating servo. And my question is:
1. Is lower shock tower s411 can use in s411ff ??? Because many parts s411 similar with s411ff.

2. Anybody here know how to improve floating servo in s411ff ??? Or just use carbon servo holder in s411 eryx 2.0???

Thanks a lot
I lowered shock towers and rcm-ss shocks front and rear
nightstoker is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:41 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net