ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

Your set up looks nice too!

This is what Protrac states:

**While the stock axles will work with the ProTrac™ Suspension Kit, some customers may want a heavy duty CVD option for their truck (for Racing or Extreme Bashing purposes). The following MIP option has been confirmed to work with the kit:
MIP #11104 X-Duty CVD Kit (2 Required for Front and Rear)
MIP #10133 X-Duty Front Axle (2 Required for Front Left and Front Right)

Additional note: If you already own X-Duty CVDs for the Slash®/Stampede® 4x4, you can use MIP #11105 Male bones to convert your drives to the new length. Axles can then be skipped in this case.


In Rally-1 I'm using the MIP#11104 and 10133 parts.

I haven't sized the OEM plastic axles to the Protrac system, however on Rally-2, I have converted that fully over to the XO-1 CVDs, 6mm Spindles, Hub carriers and bearings. I sized it up with the Protrac system and think it will work. I plan to run it as is if I install the Protrac on Rally-2

Here is my Thread regarding that

Front, 6.18mm exposed at the full extended travel = 10.61mm of insertion contact.


Back

grimmjow

Thanks for the shocks info.

reefpatrol

iTrader: (2)

Anyway to get the width without using the protrac arms ?
Since mine already has all the slash aluminum parts I don't want to change to the xo-1 stuff either.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Thanks ViperZ for the detail information....I will try and run with the stock axle first and start tweaking it from there. I hope running in 2S will help....

Solara

iTrader: (17)

I have search on the web and there are only 2 ways to do....

(1) Deeper hex adaptor (offset) and outdrive
(2) Deeper offset on the rim...

But none of the above exist at all..................so ProTrac arm is the cheapest and best solution.

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

You don't have to run XO-1 aluminum to use the Protrc arms. Just get the arms arms and use your stock plastic shafts, or when you're ready upgrade to the TRX CVDs. They are the same as the XO-1 with 5mm axles rather than the 6mm XOs

No problems, glad to be of assistance.. Yeah 2s should keep the plastic shafts alive for longer.

reefpatrol

iTrader: (2)

Thanks.
My tires should be here in a day or two so I'll see how much they sit in. Really wanted to keep my rpm arms and mip x-dutys. Or I guess learn how to not hit anything...

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

If you already have the MIP XD you can just get MIP #11105 Male bones to extend the length for the Protrac arms.

reefpatrol

iTrader: (2)

Got my wheels and tires in and like you said, it looks to narrow for the body. So I guess it's protrac time.
I was looking and I found some wheels that say they have a 1/2" offset. Since this is my first time using the 1/8 scale wheel or even wheels with the 17 mm hexes, are they all the same ? Do they all have the 1/2" offset ?.

John Wallace2

VIperZ what body is that in your post?

John Wallace2

I was working on what you are now calling a GT8 lite but planned to run it against the regular GT8 guys. It's just as fast but much lighter so it should be quicker in the turns and accelerate better (already did this in off road and the only downer was the longer heats gave the advantage to the more efficient 4c setups in the 10 minutes mains). However, I put the project on the shelf, (actually its setting on the floor behind me) after I saw a 17.5 blinky touring car crash over the barrier into the spectators at our local club race. ROAR has now reduced the height of the outside retaining barriers and our club followed with new lower boards. I'm just concerned about the liability if one of these GT8 Lites (albeit lighter than a GT8 but still pretty heavy compared to a 1/10th scale touring car) ever crashed into the spectators!!! Not sure our club races are covers by ROAR insurance and I don't want to take the risk of being sued! BTW my project was based on a TEKNO SCT410, which handled pretty well with just lowering the ride height, adding on road tires (it was already using the 1/8th scale buggy width hexes). At least it will be easy to go off roading again!

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

The Gulf livery one is a Ofna DP8, based on the McLaren F1-GTR.

Schs2013

So for a Conversion like GT8 is the Rally your best chassis choice or would there be another chassis worth looking at? i am new to 1/8 on-road but want to make sure if i choose a platform it will work and not require a whole lot of mods to make it a GT8.

FLoJo

iTrader: (2)

A rally is good for conversion but when ur talking about building one to compete with a serpent cobra , dm1 , gt2ve I don't think you can really compete against those on a track . For the price your going to pay to convert a rally your better off buying a ofna gtp2e that is a dedicated entry level onroad and if your want Togo offroad buy a real 1/8 rally body and some tires change shock positions and viola

grimmjow

I can't agree with that.

Cobra, DM1, GTP2, GTV2e, ect, are for 4s lipo only that mean heavier and more expensive cars, with my TRX Rally GT8 light i make faster lap times than others GT8 including my previously owned GT8 chassis on our outdoor asphalt track (i previously had DM1, GTP2, GTV2 and Hobao GTB).

So, yes i can say a rally correctly setup and equipped can performe better than other "heavier" GT8 cars, but it is surely not the only good solution i asume there is other light châssis that can perform very good like maybe the LOSI TEN SCTE i guess.