racer robert

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the flattering comments. The last time I drove my 180mm tamiya back to back against the fgx the difference in best lap was .4 with the tamiya being faster. This is on medium grip carpet with f1 lap times around 12 seconds. The tamiya i am running is a narrowed f103 so I don't know if a true f104 would be the same.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Although i have zero experience on carpet my FGx is beginning to dominate outdoors, and the looser the track the more it shines. I think with the development that Me,Troy and Mike ( i know your up to something!!) are putting into the FGX it is eventually going to dominate especially when the new front end is finally released. Troy has the upper deck strength figured out, i will be releasing a shim kit that will include some neat little pieces that get the slop in check. Around here the 104's are fast but in a 15min main because tire condition is so critical they tend to fade near the end while my car gets stronger. I do want to ask Mike and Troy to keep in mind that on asphalt we need flex and a pretty good amount of it so whatever chassis design you come up with make sure us asphalt guys can benefit from it. I am back to stock chassis and am actually about to make a lower chassis out of some thinner material for this reason.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Yes I agree. My lower chassis is 2.25 which has shown to be the sweet spot for sedans with rubber tires. The development trend for rubber tires is maintaining plenty of flex on carpet or asphalt so I will be bringing that to my FGX chassis.

By the way- at last weekends UF1 final, which was high grip carpet, the TQ was an Exotek F1R (f104 car) at 12.4seconds. The fastest 104X did 12.5. The best I could do with a souped up FGX was 12.6. The FGX was fast but just a few ticks off of the best 104's. It can definitely do well on carpet if you get the weight down to the same as a 104 but the 104 seemed a little more efficient through the corner. I think if 3racing made a foam wheel that could mount the Pit 104 slicks then that may be the equalizer on carpet....

MAD916

this last weekend at our last race the FGX's were a bit quicker than a NW driver of a fast F-104(think he took 4th at Tamiya Nats). anyway the F-104 was quicker and more efficient on the straight and through the fast sweeper, but through the tight areas the FGX was quicker at rotating through the tight corners and transition. he was back yesterday and worked hard on Ackerman and his setup and equaled the fast time of 14.2 by a FGX. it looked pretty good out there but still would like our FGX's snap roll in the corner if you hustled it too much.

Could not get mine past 14.3 but I have a lot to work to try on with bump steer and Ackerman since I put the Tamiya Steering Blocks on. we have pretty high Grip here and I can see a little scrubbing in the corners I would like to get rid of......

Guess we will see in about 3-1/2 weeks at the Nat's should be fun to see how it all shakes out….

forgot to Add that he did have the pit slicks on his car, and they really have a different feel especial the air gap in the rear, did not "bark and chirp" like the treaded 0561/0565

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

So rctech has labeled the most popular thread for each chassis as an "Official" thread for just about every popular race car kit.
The FGX car hasn't got their's yet.

Now that I have one I'm lookin for all the basic stuff for starting set up.
I of course have some insider info thru my F1 homies here locally and I can read so I've been from start to finish of this thread but what is lackin is the Official FGX page 1 similar to the other chassis' threads that would be the first post of this thread for instance.

I'm thinkin combine and update all the basics in one post at the beginning of this thread like:

General build tips:
gear diff, front end beef up, shock seal/spacer tune up, tire/wheel choices, must have bits like swaybar, option rear toe blocks etc. (please add)

Set up basics:
Ride height (proper way to adjust rear, links or preload or combination of both)
Droop start point and how to measure it (never saw it mentioned)
Camber
Caster (kit is 0 but is it good?)

Of course I'm referring to the kit chassis for those of us with brand new cars lookin to throw em down for the first time as well as the trick aftermarket engineering marvels.

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

Just added a lot more FGX parts to our site...

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

So, about the rear droop for this car.
Where is a good starting point?
I thought I saw it mentioned that this IRS rear doesn't respond well to the rear "bones" being level to start, rather that the bones should be pointing slightly upward, wheels up when car is picked up?
Someone have a base start point and tricks to measure droop touring car style?

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

That seems to be an off-road forum thing

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Now that you mention it, you are correct sir.
You know what else? Offroad is huge around here.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Droop on mine is about 1mm.

My setup is:

Front:
1* camber plate - 35g hop up item.
Soft silver spring - another hop up item
Piano wire reinforced upper and lower arms held in place with shoe goo and heat shrink
Stock spacer placement.

Rear:
Single hole pistion in the dampers
stock fluid
stock spring - Just got the new set and will switch to the heaviest
sway bar kit - 5 stripe - another hop up option
1* rear toe plate - hop up item
1mm droop
check the dampers for machine flashing near the O rings, if it's not clean they will leak.

Diff:
Stock fluid - make sure you sand any mold flashing off both sides of the gears.
seat the screws on the cover plate, back them out and sand the face of the diff flat, no leaks

racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

slam it! lol seriously though slam it to like 4mm ride height and use rear droop to tune low speed steering. lightfoot said he runs stiffer shock oil and springs as well and of course has the rear swaybar.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Thanks for the input guys.
Like I said, I have a few clues as to starting setups for asphalt and also for carpet(thanks again for your time and input Charles) but was checkin to see if we might get a "cover page" like the Official thread stuff on the other threads to simplify things and get the basics in one stop.
No biggie really, just thinkin out loud.

So, measuring droop on this thing, rear of course, tips?
Think I'm gonna start with bones just below level, or pointing up toward wheels with car on stand and tune as RacerXdude described.

texastc

iTrader: (2)

Sorry Cudadude, you gotta sift through it like the rest of us.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Been there done that, car is already good.
I hate it when someone says they know people but, I know people.
Gotta go, all the red lights just went out!

texastc

iTrader: (2)

its a fun car. Just a different side of F1. As soon as I get some of the new stuff coming out, Ill race it more than play.