26Likes3 racing new F1
01-13-2012, 07:30 PM
#1276
Tech Master
That's exactly where I broke 2 of the top decks. Your right its not easy to reinforce but if you to get it fixed up go ahead and get the aluminium steering knuckles. They are the next weakest link. After everything is done it is going to take a hard hit to break the front end. Except for the front wing. Knocked 2 off already but they are easy to attach and wings don't knock you out of the race.
01-13-2012, 07:51 PM
#1277
01-13-2012, 08:29 PM
#1278
the fronts in the pic are 104 hubs with 0571(soft) pits. ALOT of steering. i changed to 0573(med) pits and was much better. then i have tried the stock hubs with the ribbed soft pits and was about the same as the mediums. i havent tried the RIDE tires yet.
01-13-2012, 11:16 PM
#1279
Tech Adept
i would like to find the rib tire to fit my rabbit to match the back wheel.
01-13-2012, 11:32 PM
#1281
Still need abit of reinforcing the front arms as the version 2 still broke easily.
01-13-2012, 11:46 PM
#1282
Dan,
Bugger just got an fgx was about to order the v2 parts.
Bugger just got an fgx was about to order the v2 parts.
01-13-2012, 11:57 PM
#1283
I did a quick mod to the upper deck tonight. I cut a piece of FRP from a motor plate from an F109, and shoe gooed it on the upper deck. Will see how it works tomorrow. Fix one thing, break another. I have replaced everything at least twice already.
01-14-2012, 06:01 AM
#1285
Tech Master
01-14-2012, 06:12 AM
#1286
01-14-2012, 09:06 AM
#1287
I'd like to see a CF upper deck conversion that keeps the front end the same, relatively anyway. Maybe in two or more pieces so the battery could be removed from the top fairly easily, maybe even a shorty/standard option set. Speaking of which a better battery retaining system, right now you either tape it in as you build it, or fight with it later like I did. I've already removed my battery door and put the electronics in front of the battery to balance the car a little more to my liking. My thought would be a rear plate that the dampers and rear chassis brace mount to, a front plate that the arms and steering rack mount to and one in between held down by thumb screws. And finally, lift the steering linkage from the servo saver to the rack by a couple mm for better battery clearance. 25.5mm just isn't enough space.
01-14-2012, 11:09 AM
#1288
I used ca and carbon flat stock on the sides and ran a piano wire from the back of the deck all the way to the front on the underside of the deck. Drilled and grinded as necessary. Coated the whole thing in a nice layer of shoe goo....... flat stock, rod, and as much of the chassis as I could. took the car out and really pushed the car. hit hard enough to break a set of reinforced lower arms and a steering knuckle but he deck held up. By the way I did this with a deck that was already broke and not a new one. Had to cut the piano wire on the servo side and use a small shim on the top deck to get clearance but it worked great. First time I was comfortable pushing the car
01-14-2012, 11:15 AM
#1289
springs
Is it possible to shorten /clip the rear spring to make them stiffer untill 3racing imports a spring kit. I think a shorter spring is stiffer.
01-14-2012, 02:08 PM
#1290
I had a marshal fire another car directly in front of me , while steaming onto the straight. Destroyed the front axle bearings on one side , but didnt break the new upper. I also tested them very well throughout the night. They are a lot stiffer and definitely beefier in general.
I will grab some shimizu mediums to try up front. It was hooking the rear around , like a mini running the wrong front tyres.......