3 racing new F1
#2221
#2222
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
No, this page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/3-Raci...6510613?ref=ts Look for David Hope(that's me)
It is 3 Racing, but it is a different page. Strange
It is 3 Racing, but it is a different page. Strange
#2224
Ready for battle in the morning! Lot of smack talk this week, so its about to go DOWN!!
I havent posted for a while, been testing and testing and testing on the EXO and the MD chassis. Unfortunately i could not get either one of them to work very well on asphalt/concrete, to keep it simple the lower chassis is just too stiff.
I put about 200 laps on the MCkune and about 20 on the EXO (only because it had the same characteristics). I tried Full MD,stock lower/MD top and MDbottom/stock top.
Full MD:
lack of rear grip
severe oversteer
only way to get it around the track was with hard fronts and had to use alot brake to get it to turn. I was able to get a faster quick lap than the previous week but not near as consistent was 1 lap down from my TQ the week before. went from a 12.2 fast lap to an 11.9 fastlap.
couple of nights after that went to a treated asphalt track and i had nothing but issues and i TRIED everything" three different difs, two pair of shocks. spring combos RC adjustment etc etc.
STOCK LOWER/MD TOP:
This combo was decent but for some reason there was a tweak and i could not get rid of it I had to have 1.5 turns on the right shock to get it to balance, was strange.
MD BOTTOM/STOCK TOP:
over steered even worse as expected
EXO FUll chassis:
felt about the same, it would turn in aggressively and then kind of push out mid to exit which made it a little easier to drive but i dont like my car to move around very much in the turns especially on asphalt.
Another local has this chassis and experienced the same issues.
So i go back to the stock chassis and it just feels much better.
I pm'd Troy but didnt get a response, I have not contacted MikeR yet but will. But listen guys we have over 30 members now here in houston, New F1 dedicated website ( www.HAF1R.com ) we race F1 every thursday and every sunday on three different track that are all Asphalt! Would love to have a chassis that is designed for asphalt. I simply do not have the time to make my own anymore so PLEASE help us out!
PLEASE REMEMBER THAT MY TESTING WAS DONE ON ASPHALT, WE ALL KNOW HOW WELL THEY PERFORM ON CARPET WHICH IS WHAT THEY WERE DESIGNED TO DO, THESE ARE JUST MY EXPERIENCEs, DONT WANT TO PISS ANYONE OFF!
I havent posted for a while, been testing and testing and testing on the EXO and the MD chassis. Unfortunately i could not get either one of them to work very well on asphalt/concrete, to keep it simple the lower chassis is just too stiff.
I put about 200 laps on the MCkune and about 20 on the EXO (only because it had the same characteristics). I tried Full MD,stock lower/MD top and MDbottom/stock top.
Full MD:
lack of rear grip
severe oversteer
only way to get it around the track was with hard fronts and had to use alot brake to get it to turn. I was able to get a faster quick lap than the previous week but not near as consistent was 1 lap down from my TQ the week before. went from a 12.2 fast lap to an 11.9 fastlap.
couple of nights after that went to a treated asphalt track and i had nothing but issues and i TRIED everything" three different difs, two pair of shocks. spring combos RC adjustment etc etc.
STOCK LOWER/MD TOP:
This combo was decent but for some reason there was a tweak and i could not get rid of it I had to have 1.5 turns on the right shock to get it to balance, was strange.
MD BOTTOM/STOCK TOP:
over steered even worse as expected
EXO FUll chassis:
felt about the same, it would turn in aggressively and then kind of push out mid to exit which made it a little easier to drive but i dont like my car to move around very much in the turns especially on asphalt.
Another local has this chassis and experienced the same issues.
So i go back to the stock chassis and it just feels much better.
I pm'd Troy but didnt get a response, I have not contacted MikeR yet but will. But listen guys we have over 30 members now here in houston, New F1 dedicated website ( www.HAF1R.com ) we race F1 every thursday and every sunday on three different track that are all Asphalt! Would love to have a chassis that is designed for asphalt. I simply do not have the time to make my own anymore so PLEASE help us out!
PLEASE REMEMBER THAT MY TESTING WAS DONE ON ASPHALT, WE ALL KNOW HOW WELL THEY PERFORM ON CARPET WHICH IS WHAT THEY WERE DESIGNED TO DO, THESE ARE JUST MY EXPERIENCEs, DONT WANT TO PISS ANYONE OFF!
#2225
Tech Champion
Well I just started my FGX-EFX build finally today Now originally I wanted to try mounting the battery cross-wise with a shorty pack as shown in the pictures but it appears the carbon brace for that mounting configuration is shorter than the one that comes in the kit. I've e-mailed ExoTek on that so hope to have that ironed out soon. Anyway that's not what I'm posting about...while mucking about with the battery configuration I noticed it looks like there might just be enough room to run the servo flat on the chassis with the shorty pack with the in-line configuration...I know a lot of people have moved the battery forward and put the ESC behind it but I was wondering if anyone had tried moving the battery back and put the servo in front? Is there enough room?
#2226
Well I just started my FGX-EFX build finally today Now originally I wanted to try mounting the battery cross-wise with a shorty pack as shown in the pictures but it appears the carbon brace for that mounting configuration is shorter than the one that comes in the kit. I've e-mailed ExoTek on that so hope to have that ironed out soon. Anyway that's not what I'm posting about...while mucking about with the battery configuration I noticed it looks like there might just be enough room to run the servo flat on the chassis with the shorty pack with the in-line configuration...I know a lot of people have moved the battery forward and put the ESC behind it but I was wondering if anyone had tried moving the battery back and put the servo in front? Is there enough room?
#2227
Tech Champion
Yeah I was wondering that because it looks like it was part of the kit and they don't list it as an option part...I'll probably end up cutting my own.
#2230
Tech Fanatic
Marcus, I read your comment about your asphalt testing of both the McKune and Exotek chassis, and I'm wondering with respects to both, what size lipo were you using in each? Was it a "full size" pack, or one of the new "shorty" packs? I think the Exotek chassis actually gives you the most options as to battery placement, especially if you use a "shorty" pack.
Have you considered trying the "shorty" moved all the way forward with the electrics behind to cure your cornering issues? Or how about put the pack to the rear with electrics up front; or put the pack cross-ways in the rear(only the Exotek allows for this position) Either way, with both chassis I would experiment with a variety of battery sizes and placements before I passed judgement on either chassis. Just my two cents.
If none of that works, maybe either McKune or Exotek could make a thinner main chassis plate. I think they both are 2.5mm thick, so maybe a 2.0mm would be "thin" enough to provide some chassis flex to improve mechanical grip on asphalt. Again, just my two cents.
Have you considered trying the "shorty" moved all the way forward with the electrics behind to cure your cornering issues? Or how about put the pack to the rear with electrics up front; or put the pack cross-ways in the rear(only the Exotek allows for this position) Either way, with both chassis I would experiment with a variety of battery sizes and placements before I passed judgement on either chassis. Just my two cents.
If none of that works, maybe either McKune or Exotek could make a thinner main chassis plate. I think they both are 2.5mm thick, so maybe a 2.0mm would be "thin" enough to provide some chassis flex to improve mechanical grip on asphalt. Again, just my two cents.
Last edited by Team Lotus; 04-01-2012 at 03:13 PM.
#2231
Tech Master
#2232
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Try a 39/21, FDR of 5.03 and temp. Keep adding teeth to the pinion approaching a taller 4.0 from there if the motor is still good on temp. If already too hot take away a couple teeth and keep going down until the temps drop. I'm assuming you have the fast spur gear set: 35, 39, 41, 43. My Tamiyas typically run somewhere in the 3.5 to 5.5 range depending on track size.
#2233
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
As far as brushless go, the sweet spot on the Thunder Power Z3-R is really different. It appears they don't even like pinions over 30 with the 35. I'm running a 4.something. With my old Novak SS 21.5 from my old TA cars I can run a much higher pinion for some reason. Even with the timing cranked, it can handle a 3.5 FDR and lower easily. I was running 2.0 in the F103. It would never get hot, but then it sounded like it was still trying to rev up for ever.
We should start posting more of what we find for motor and gearing setups!
I'm running
TP Z3-R
30* on the endbell
35/21
Temps around 140 at 8 minutes
Excellent infield speed and maxing out on acceleration at about 50 feet. I'd add a couple more teeth and/or 15* more timing for a longer straight.
We should start posting more of what we find for motor and gearing setups!
I'm running
TP Z3-R
30* on the endbell
35/21
Temps around 140 at 8 minutes
Excellent infield speed and maxing out on acceleration at about 50 feet. I'd add a couple more teeth and/or 15* more timing for a longer straight.
Last edited by liljohn1064; 04-01-2012 at 04:05 PM.
#2234
Marcus, I read your comment about your asphalt testing of both the McKune and Exotek chassis, and I'm wondering with respects to both, what size lipo were you using in each? Was it a "full size" pack, or one of the new "shorty" packs? I think the Exotek chassis actually gives you the most options as to battery placement, especially if you use a "shorty" pack.
Have you considered trying the "shorty" moved all the way forward with the electrics behind to cure your cornering issues? Or how about put the pack to the rear with electrics up front; or put the pack cross-ways in the rear(only the Exotek allows for this position) Either way, with both chassis I would experiment with a variety of battery sizes and placements before I passed judgement on either chassis. Just my two cents.
If none of that works, maybe either McKune or Exotek could make a thinner main chassis plate. I think they both are 2.5mm thick, so maybe a 2.0mm would be "thin" enough to provide some chassis flex to improve mechanical grip on asphalt. Again, just my two cents.
Have you considered trying the "shorty" moved all the way forward with the electrics behind to cure your cornering issues? Or how about put the pack to the rear with electrics up front; or put the pack cross-ways in the rear(only the Exotek allows for this position) Either way, with both chassis I would experiment with a variety of battery sizes and placements before I passed judgement on either chassis. Just my two cents.
If none of that works, maybe either McKune or Exotek could make a thinner main chassis plate. I think they both are 2.5mm thick, so maybe a 2.0mm would be "thin" enough to provide some chassis flex to improve mechanical grip on asphalt. Again, just my two cents.
Today I smashed the track record with the stock chassis! last week i went 11.9 record was 11.6 today i went 11.2 with about a dozen 11.5's car was AMAZING. I will get into it further later but there has been a funky tweaks in the chassis that comes from moving the post to make clearance for the bigger pinions. I made a neat little adapter plate and the tweak is now gone. For the first time i actually got the car to scale within 5gs with just weight only took about a 1/4 turn on the left shock to get the car dead even! Car was a dream! i also made some setup wheels which also made a difference with alignment.
LEsson for the day: CORNER WEIGHT, SCALE AND BALANCE YOUR CAR!
#2235
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
As far as brushless go, the sweet spot on the Thunder Power Z3-R is really different. It appears they don't even like pinions over 30 with the 35. I'm running a 4.something. With my old Novak SS 21.5 from my old TA cars I can run a much higher pinion for some reason. Even with the timing cranked, it can handle a 3.5 FDR and lower easily. I was running 2.0 in the F103. It would never get hot, but then it sounded like it was still trying to rev up for ever.
We should start posting more of what we find for motor and gearing setups!
I'm running
TP Z3-R
30* on the endbell
35/21
Temps around 140 at 8 minutes
Excellent infield speed and maxing out on acceleration at about 50 feet. I'd add a couple more teeth and/or 15* more timing for a longer straight.
We should start posting more of what we find for motor and gearing setups!
I'm running
TP Z3-R
30* on the endbell
35/21
Temps around 140 at 8 minutes
Excellent infield speed and maxing out on acceleration at about 50 feet. I'd add a couple more teeth and/or 15* more timing for a longer straight.
Reedy sonic 21.5
Novak edge
32* on end bell
35/34
Temps 50*c
Our track has flowing infield and long straight leading to a right hand sweeper.
I have excellent infield speed and excellent acceleration maxing out approx 2/3 down the straight.
It's just as fast as another racer running a 13t in his fgx but more bottom end.
There is .1 of a sec difference between the 2.