Team Losi JRXS
12-03-2008, 01:02 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Yes, the battery will drop out the bottom very easily, no change there.
You don't need to remove as much material as I did around the rear diff bulks, I should have gone slower there.
Most of the work needs to be done on the aluminum bulks in the middle with only a tiny bit of work on the rear bulks. I have considered setting up to machine replacement bulks with a slightly higher bearing position for the jack shaft which would allow enough clearance for the battery to fit. It would depend on the demand to see if it's worth it, maybe not.
Other than that you only need to remove a section of the chassis near the rear and cut off most of the battery tray to make it into a tab. You will need to massage the inside radius of the new "tab" to match your battery case. I chose the Orion 3400 as it has more rounded top corners which makes it easier.
The battery connectors do come very close to the rear diff bulks so you need to insulate them as the carbon parts are conductive. I used heat shrink tubing. I used a Deans connector between the battery & ESC so I can disconnect and charge the battery in the car. The balance port in the battery can be reached easily.
I really like this car and only use it on paved tracks. I was told by Losi that the main reason they redesigned the car into the type R was to improve it's performance on carpet, plus making it LiPo friendly.
You don't need to remove as much material as I did around the rear diff bulks, I should have gone slower there.
Most of the work needs to be done on the aluminum bulks in the middle with only a tiny bit of work on the rear bulks. I have considered setting up to machine replacement bulks with a slightly higher bearing position for the jack shaft which would allow enough clearance for the battery to fit. It would depend on the demand to see if it's worth it, maybe not.
Other than that you only need to remove a section of the chassis near the rear and cut off most of the battery tray to make it into a tab. You will need to massage the inside radius of the new "tab" to match your battery case. I chose the Orion 3400 as it has more rounded top corners which makes it easier.
The battery connectors do come very close to the rear diff bulks so you need to insulate them as the carbon parts are conductive. I used heat shrink tubing. I used a Deans connector between the battery & ESC so I can disconnect and charge the battery in the car. The balance port in the battery can be reached easily.
I really like this car and only use it on paved tracks. I was told by Losi that the main reason they redesigned the car into the type R was to improve it's performance on carpet, plus making it LiPo friendly.
12-19-2008, 07:11 AM
Another jrx-s with lipo mounted.
Hey Dan!!!! Gotta post some of mine too. Here's mine mounted with the ORION 3800 30C with the battery tray.
12-20-2008, 05:07 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Nice work Ken,
The JRX-S is far from obsolete! So you've got a second one now?
The JRX-S is far from obsolete! So you've got a second one now?
12-20-2008, 08:03 PM
Did you have to do much modifying to get the battery to fit?
12-20-2008, 08:12 PM
I was inspired too. Took a little more to get it to fit then I expected, but got it. Do you guys have a good setup for lipo 17.5 on carpet with rubberz? I drove an Xray t2 007 that was setup and it was dialed. Need to get my losi there!!!!!!
12-20-2008, 10:14 PM
12-20-2008, 10:35 PM
if you look on the page back you will see that the fronts need to be squared off almost to a 90 deg angle. I'm curious on how he got the whole tray back on and didn't cut the bar off the chassis either. Did you load from the top?
12-21-2008, 06:19 PM
Yeah, I got the 2nd one yesterday. Already fitted the 3400 25C in it. Now that I've done it on 3 cars already, this time it took about 15 mins of dremel time. The 3400 is so much easier to fit since the casing is radiused. MUCH less machining. I'll post pics later.
Most of the work is done to the motor mount. You must machine out the rounded edge to make it square off like the pics that danketchpel posted. A little bit on the rear bulkhead/concentric ring and thining out the battery tray some. The battery mounts from the bottom still. Once you have the battery in, you'll see how much of the battery tray will need to be thinned out to make it fit. VERY MUCH WORTH THE EFFORT.
The car is still structurally strong, no reduced stiffness or tweak issues (gotta love those set pins built into the parts) It is much LIGHTER and some may have to re-learn the car or even add weights to rear of the car to get it back to normal. I for one love it.
Most of the work is done to the motor mount. You must machine out the rounded edge to make it square off like the pics that danketchpel posted. A little bit on the rear bulkhead/concentric ring and thining out the battery tray some. The battery mounts from the bottom still. Once you have the battery in, you'll see how much of the battery tray will need to be thinned out to make it fit. VERY MUCH WORTH THE EFFORT.
The car is still structurally strong, no reduced stiffness or tweak issues (gotta love those set pins built into the parts) It is much LIGHTER and some may have to re-learn the car or even add weights to rear of the car to get it back to normal. I for one love it.
12-21-2008, 10:18 PM
Some pics of the 3400 mounted.
01-10-2009, 11:03 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Yup, I definitely got too carried away with the dremel on the chassis near the rear. I shoulda taken better notes from Ken the "Dremel Master".
Oh well, mine seems fine even with the extra material missing. That chassis is a model of stiffness and efficient design, IMO.
It seems like there isn't much traffic on this thread, where's all the JRX-S owners???
Oh well, mine seems fine even with the extra material missing. That chassis is a model of stiffness and efficient design, IMO.
It seems like there isn't much traffic on this thread, where's all the JRX-S owners???
01-11-2009, 08:57 AM
setup
I ran mine for the second time yesterday and I must say there is nothing wrong with the handling of this car! Even though I forgot all my trays of parts I was able to make minor adjustments and get my losi on pace with the fast guys times. I was running sorex 28's on an ozite surface. track size is 80'x40' so kinda tight. I did add the required wieghts to get up to their requirements. My gtb doesn't like the 3.5 fdr with a 17.5 and it thermal shut off at approx. 6.5 mins. Not having my pinions I bought a diff. spur at the track and got it up to 3.85. It was way more responsive and my times showed it as I got them down in the low 11's. For any newbies I would start closer to 4.0 and you'll probably settle in around the 3.8 mark. my .02 worth. If any one wants to try my set up let me know and I will post it.
01-11-2009, 09:12 AM
will the orion 3800 hard case fit ?? i have a smc soft case in there now with no modifying but what all do i need to do to get the orion to fit ??
01-11-2009, 09:22 AM
3800
I believe the 3800 is the same size (or close enough) to fit. Look at the dimensions on either A-main or Tower and see if they are the same size. I'm sure it will fit.
01-11-2009, 09:25 AM
hey thats the same pack i have right there but now what all do i need to do to make it fit?
01-11-2009, 01:56 PM
ok so far i dremaled out the rear bulkhead and squared off the center it still wont go in what else do i need to do also what about the plugs coming out of the top? i see in your pic that you cant see them on top ? how do you put them on then? thanks for the help cody