Team Losi JRXS
Tech Addict
Yeah mine and every one I've seen is the same way. Just add some thin shims between the spacer and the ball end on the hingepin and it'll be fine. Just make sure there's still freedom of movement. Don't want to overdo it and bind it up.
Tony
Tony
Originally Posted by tc4
There is about 1mm play
I use teflon washers for small clearances and brass/steel for larger gaps.
Whatever it takes, as long as it has free movement.
There is also a point that I just replace the worn parts.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Thanks for that guys i will put some washers in.
Tech Regular
Wow.
Car is faster than ever tonite, Heres my setup (Carpet track, quite tight n twisty, no additive allowed so only medium bite) - running stock
Front
Shocks 50wt std piston, 25lb spring, in on tower (std front tower), BK on wishbone
4 Deg caster block, Mid wheelbase, Droop 1 on TL gauge
High roll centre, 1 degree front bar, diff
JR link to middle hole on tower
Rear
Shocks 50wt std piston, 20lb spring, hole 2 on tower, KB rear tower mod, using BK brackets
1/2 deg std hubs on wrong way round
2 degree bar (total 1.5 deg toe in), wishbone forward
Low roll centre, Link lower middle on tower, inside on hub
Proto G6 shell
Car was great but had a tendancy for the rear to step out in the particularly tight turns. It wasn't really oversteer - I turned my EPA down and the car was still a little loose.
Anyone got any suggestions of changes I should make?
Thanks
Oli
Car is faster than ever tonite, Heres my setup (Carpet track, quite tight n twisty, no additive allowed so only medium bite) - running stock
Front
Shocks 50wt std piston, 25lb spring, in on tower (std front tower), BK on wishbone
4 Deg caster block, Mid wheelbase, Droop 1 on TL gauge
High roll centre, 1 degree front bar, diff
JR link to middle hole on tower
Rear
Shocks 50wt std piston, 20lb spring, hole 2 on tower, KB rear tower mod, using BK brackets
1/2 deg std hubs on wrong way round
2 degree bar (total 1.5 deg toe in), wishbone forward
Low roll centre, Link lower middle on tower, inside on hub
Proto G6 shell
Car was great but had a tendancy for the rear to step out in the particularly tight turns. It wasn't really oversteer - I turned my EPA down and the car was still a little loose.
Anyone got any suggestions of changes I should make?
Thanks
Oli
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Originally Posted by Bigger Brother
Wow.
Car is faster than ever tonite, Heres my setup (Carpet track, quite tight n twisty, no additive allowed so only medium bite) - running stock
Front
Shocks 50wt std piston, 25lb spring, in on tower (std front tower), BK on wishbone
4 Deg caster block, Mid wheelbase, Droop 1 on TL gauge
High roll centre, 1 degree front bar, diff
JR link to middle hole on tower
Rear
Shocks 50wt std piston, 20lb spring, hole 2 on tower, KB rear tower mod, using BK brackets
1/2 deg std hubs on wrong way round
2 degree bar (total 1.5 deg toe in), wishbone forward
Low roll centre, Link lower middle on tower, inside on hub
Proto G6 shell
Car was great but had a tendancy for the rear to step out in the particularly tight turns. It wasn't really oversteer - I turned my EPA down and the car was still a little loose.
Anyone got any suggestions of changes I should make?
Thanks
Oli
Car is faster than ever tonite, Heres my setup (Carpet track, quite tight n twisty, no additive allowed so only medium bite) - running stock
Front
Shocks 50wt std piston, 25lb spring, in on tower (std front tower), BK on wishbone
4 Deg caster block, Mid wheelbase, Droop 1 on TL gauge
High roll centre, 1 degree front bar, diff
JR link to middle hole on tower
Rear
Shocks 50wt std piston, 20lb spring, hole 2 on tower, KB rear tower mod, using BK brackets
1/2 deg std hubs on wrong way round
2 degree bar (total 1.5 deg toe in), wishbone forward
Low roll centre, Link lower middle on tower, inside on hub
Proto G6 shell
Car was great but had a tendancy for the rear to step out in the particularly tight turns. It wasn't really oversteer - I turned my EPA down and the car was still a little loose.
Anyone got any suggestions of changes I should make?
Thanks
Oli
First place I would look is to your high front roll center. Sounds like you rear end is giving up before the front. If you lower the front RC the car should dive a bit harder and be more balanced F/R mid turn.
Also, run your rear arm in the middle rather than forward.. That could also be causing it?? Dont have experience with that- never tried it.
add rear camber
Let us know how it works out for you either way!
Keith
Originally Posted by Bigger Brother
Wow.
Car is faster than ever tonite, Heres my setup (Carpet track, quite tight n twisty, no additive allowed so only medium bite) - running stock
Front
Shocks 50wt std piston, 25lb spring, in on tower (std front tower), BK on wishbone
4 Deg caster block, Mid wheelbase, Droop 1 on TL gauge
High roll centre, 1 degree front bar, diff
JR link to middle hole on tower
Rear
Shocks 50wt std piston, 20lb spring, hole 2 on tower, KB rear tower mod, using BK brackets
1/2 deg std hubs on wrong way round
2 degree bar (total 1.5 deg toe in), wishbone forward
Low roll centre, Link lower middle on tower, inside on hub
Proto G6 shell
Car was great but had a tendancy for the rear to step out in the particularly tight turns. It wasn't really oversteer - I turned my EPA down and the car was still a little loose.
Anyone got any suggestions of changes I should make?
Thanks
Oli
Car is faster than ever tonite, Heres my setup (Carpet track, quite tight n twisty, no additive allowed so only medium bite) - running stock
Front
Shocks 50wt std piston, 25lb spring, in on tower (std front tower), BK on wishbone
4 Deg caster block, Mid wheelbase, Droop 1 on TL gauge
High roll centre, 1 degree front bar, diff
JR link to middle hole on tower
Rear
Shocks 50wt std piston, 20lb spring, hole 2 on tower, KB rear tower mod, using BK brackets
1/2 deg std hubs on wrong way round
2 degree bar (total 1.5 deg toe in), wishbone forward
Low roll centre, Link lower middle on tower, inside on hub
Proto G6 shell
Car was great but had a tendancy for the rear to step out in the particularly tight turns. It wasn't really oversteer - I turned my EPA down and the car was still a little loose.
Anyone got any suggestions of changes I should make?
Thanks
Oli
Are you running foam or rubber tires?
Tech Regular
Keith: Will try the roll centre, i used to run a low but never liked it. Havn't tried it since I made all the mods so definatly something to have a go with. I'll also change the wishbone and play a little with camber, was running 1 deg all round. Got a race meeting at the same track on Monday so will try it all out then and report back.
Todd: Sorry, its foams, knew I'd forget something!
Todd: Sorry, its foams, knew I'd forget something!
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Originally Posted by Bigger Brother
Keith: Will try the roll centre, i used to run a low but never liked it. Havn't tried it since I made all the mods so definatly something to have a go with. I'll also change the wishbone and play a little with camber, was running 1 deg all round. Got a race meeting at the same track on Monday so will try it all out then and report back.
Todd: Sorry, its foams, knew I'd forget something!
Todd: Sorry, its foams, knew I'd forget something!
KB~
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by tc4
On my JRX-S where the Hinge pin goes through the hub carriers on the front and back there is lots of movement with the hingepin going backwards and forwards. Should i just put some small washers in there to stop the movement?
Thanks
Thanks
The steering bearings do work on the CVD's though!
Maybe we could get Team Losi to release a shim kit for the JRX-S?
LOSA0001 JRX-S Suspension Shim Kit $4.99 (fake part#)
10x .010 1/8" inner pin shims
10x .010 3/32" outer pin shims
What do you think Todd?
Thanks to J. Filipow for the hook up on the part #'s.................
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
I have tried to get my IB3800's to fit into the car. Do i just modify the battery tray to make them fit? I have put my plugs in the groove of the cells already.
Thanks
Thanks
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
Originally Posted by tc4
I have tried to get my IB3800's to fit into the car. Do i just modify the battery tray to make them fit? I have put my plugs in the groove of the cells already.
Thanks
Thanks
You need the large battery tray (Part #A4309)... Also, have you put heat-shrink on the individual cell? You'll need to remove this and resolder the cell together again... The 3700/3800's packs should fit perfectly....
Link attached: http://www.teamlosi.com/jrxs-page/trick%20tip%20pg1.htm
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Yes they have shrink wrap over them. I will modify the tray i have just for now and i will try and get the new one.
Tech Addict
Man.. Have fun modding that tray. I wasn't able to get the aluminum one right away when I got the car and had to do that too.. Put the large sanding drum on the dremel and have at it. You need to do most of the work to the front slot, and you need to trim down one of the tabs in the rear as well. Also, make sure you slotted the one battery cutout on the chassis for your 3700/3800's as well...
Had an absolute blast with the car yesterday at it's first run on asphalt/tarmac. It was cloudy all day and was only in the 60's, so the track temp was quite low making traction hard to come by. Even so, with the wrong tires, the car still looked a lot better than most of the others out there.
Tony
Had an absolute blast with the car yesterday at it's first run on asphalt/tarmac. It was cloudy all day and was only in the 60's, so the track temp was quite low making traction hard to come by. Even so, with the wrong tires, the car still looked a lot better than most of the others out there.
Tony
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I race oval with my JRX-S and here are a few pics of my car after a "Brush with the Wall"!
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Tony- That HAS to be more than just a 'brush' with the wall! That rear pulley is warped!?