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Old 04-28-2006, 07:54 AM   #11581
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Yeah mine and every one I've seen is the same way. Just add some thin shims between the spacer and the ball end on the hingepin and it'll be fine. Just make sure there's still freedom of movement. Don't want to overdo it and bind it up.

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Old 04-28-2006, 08:01 AM   #11582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc4
There is about 1mm play
Yes, washer it up.

I use teflon washers for small clearances and brass/steel for larger gaps.

Whatever it takes, as long as it has free movement.

There is also a point that I just replace the worn parts.
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Old 04-28-2006, 04:42 PM   #11583
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Thanks for that guys i will put some washers in.
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Old 04-28-2006, 05:04 PM   #11584
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Wow.

Car is faster than ever tonite, Heres my setup (Carpet track, quite tight n twisty, no additive allowed so only medium bite) - running stock

Front
Shocks 50wt std piston, 25lb spring, in on tower (std front tower), BK on wishbone
4 Deg caster block, Mid wheelbase, Droop 1 on TL gauge
High roll centre, 1 degree front bar, diff
JR link to middle hole on tower

Rear
Shocks 50wt std piston, 20lb spring, hole 2 on tower, KB rear tower mod, using BK brackets
1/2 deg std hubs on wrong way round
2 degree bar (total 1.5 deg toe in), wishbone forward
Low roll centre, Link lower middle on tower, inside on hub

Proto G6 shell

Car was great but had a tendancy for the rear to step out in the particularly tight turns. It wasn't really oversteer - I turned my EPA down and the car was still a little loose.

Anyone got any suggestions of changes I should make?

Thanks
Oli
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Old 04-28-2006, 05:18 PM   #11585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigger Brother
Wow.

Car is faster than ever tonite, Heres my setup (Carpet track, quite tight n twisty, no additive allowed so only medium bite) - running stock

Front
Shocks 50wt std piston, 25lb spring, in on tower (std front tower), BK on wishbone
4 Deg caster block, Mid wheelbase, Droop 1 on TL gauge
High roll centre, 1 degree front bar, diff
JR link to middle hole on tower

Rear
Shocks 50wt std piston, 20lb spring, hole 2 on tower, KB rear tower mod, using BK brackets
1/2 deg std hubs on wrong way round
2 degree bar (total 1.5 deg toe in), wishbone forward
Low roll centre, Link lower middle on tower, inside on hub

Proto G6 shell

Car was great but had a tendancy for the rear to step out in the particularly tight turns. It wasn't really oversteer - I turned my EPA down and the car was still a little loose.

Anyone got any suggestions of changes I should make?

Thanks
Oli

First place I would look is to your high front roll center. Sounds like you rear end is giving up before the front. If you lower the front RC the car should dive a bit harder and be more balanced F/R mid turn.

Also, run your rear arm in the middle rather than forward.. That could also be causing it?? Dont have experience with that- never tried it.

add rear camber

Let us know how it works out for you either way!
Keith
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Old 04-29-2006, 02:08 AM   #11586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigger Brother
Wow.

Car is faster than ever tonite, Heres my setup (Carpet track, quite tight n twisty, no additive allowed so only medium bite) - running stock

Front
Shocks 50wt std piston, 25lb spring, in on tower (std front tower), BK on wishbone
4 Deg caster block, Mid wheelbase, Droop 1 on TL gauge
High roll centre, 1 degree front bar, diff
JR link to middle hole on tower

Rear
Shocks 50wt std piston, 20lb spring, hole 2 on tower, KB rear tower mod, using BK brackets
1/2 deg std hubs on wrong way round
2 degree bar (total 1.5 deg toe in), wishbone forward
Low roll centre, Link lower middle on tower, inside on hub

Proto G6 shell

Car was great but had a tendancy for the rear to step out in the particularly tight turns. It wasn't really oversteer - I turned my EPA down and the car was still a little loose.

Anyone got any suggestions of changes I should make?

Thanks
Oli

Are you running foam or rubber tires?
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Old 04-29-2006, 04:36 PM   #11587
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Keith: Will try the roll centre, i used to run a low but never liked it. Havn't tried it since I made all the mods so definatly something to have a go with. I'll also change the wishbone and play a little with camber, was running 1 deg all round. Got a race meeting at the same track on Monday so will try it all out then and report back.

Todd: Sorry, its foams, knew I'd forget something!
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Old 04-29-2006, 05:08 PM   #11588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigger Brother
Keith: Will try the roll centre, i used to run a low but never liked it. Havn't tried it since I made all the mods so definatly something to have a go with. I'll also change the wishbone and play a little with camber, was running 1 deg all round. Got a race meeting at the same track on Monday so will try it all out then and report back.

Todd: Sorry, its foams, knew I'd forget something!
Hmm 1 degree all around.. Try 1F- 2R.. camber before the RC. It may do what ya need it to. it seems to be a standard for me..

KB~
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Old 04-29-2006, 07:43 PM   #11589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc4
On my JRX-S where the Hinge pin goes through the hub carriers on the front and back there is lots of movement with the hingepin going backwards and forwards. Should i just put some small washers in there to stop the movement?

Thanks
I use .010 brass motor shims on the inner 1/8" pins and 3/32" XXX Steering Bearing/Shims for the outer pins and front camber mod. The 3/32" shims are very hard to come by and/or expensive as they are only available with the replacement steering bearings.

The steering bearings do work on the CVD's though!

Maybe we could get Team Losi to release a shim kit for the JRX-S?

LOSA0001 JRX-S Suspension Shim Kit $4.99 (fake part#)
10x .010 1/8" inner pin shims
10x .010 3/32" outer pin shims

What do you think Todd?

Thanks to J. Filipow for the hook up on the part #'s.................
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Old 05-01-2006, 01:45 AM   #11590
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I have tried to get my IB3800's to fit into the car. Do i just modify the battery tray to make them fit? I have put my plugs in the groove of the cells already.

Thanks
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Old 05-01-2006, 04:11 AM   #11591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc4
I have tried to get my IB3800's to fit into the car. Do i just modify the battery tray to make them fit? I have put my plugs in the groove of the cells already.

Thanks
You don't need to modify anything on the car.....

You need the large battery tray (Part #A4309)... Also, have you put heat-shrink on the individual cell? You'll need to remove this and resolder the cell together again... The 3700/3800's packs should fit perfectly....

Link attached: http://www.teamlosi.com/jrxs-page/trick%20tip%20pg1.htm
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Old 05-01-2006, 04:22 AM   #11592
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Yes they have shrink wrap over them. I will modify the tray i have just for now and i will try and get the new one.
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Old 05-01-2006, 07:04 AM   #11593
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Man.. Have fun modding that tray. I wasn't able to get the aluminum one right away when I got the car and had to do that too.. Put the large sanding drum on the dremel and have at it. You need to do most of the work to the front slot, and you need to trim down one of the tabs in the rear as well. Also, make sure you slotted the one battery cutout on the chassis for your 3700/3800's as well...

Had an absolute blast with the car yesterday at it's first run on asphalt/tarmac. It was cloudy all day and was only in the 60's, so the track temp was quite low making traction hard to come by. Even so, with the wrong tires, the car still looked a lot better than most of the others out there.

Tony
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Old 05-01-2006, 07:13 AM   #11594
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I race oval with my JRX-S and here are a few pics of my car after a "Brush with the Wall"!





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Old 05-01-2006, 11:19 AM   #11595
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Tony- That HAS to be more than just a 'brush' with the wall! That rear pulley is warped!?
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