weliin

I finally got to try the new arms out this weekend after they came off backorder. All I can say is, very nice, they made my very stable car even more stable which I didn't think was possible.

I kept the same pistons (60f/57r) in the car and just dropped oil wt by 15 at each end and also the spring rate in the front to 30lb. Everything seemed really good with great cornerspeed. I'm going to try less pack this weekend in the shocks to see if that generates some more corner speed. May try lighter springs all around well.

dgullickson

iTrader: (45)

Thrusts are on sale for you guys again - www.axiommotors.com

POOKYT

Keep us informed on how the changes affect your car.

Brant

Floss_LUC

Hi Guys,

Ive just made myself up a set of the camber link mod links, but Im having problems with the screw. Since we use the metric system here it hard to get the right screws so I got some losi 4-40 x 1/2" Flat Head screws, I had to file down the bushing abit cos the V part of the flathead was pushing it out the otherside. So I now have everything sitting nicely but when I tighten the top screw it tightens up the steering, if I loosen it off the steering is free but the two spindle carrier parts seem very loose causing it not to flat together.

Any suggestions???

Gareth

robk

iTrader: (22)

I wound up glueing the cut down caster block onto the top of the intact one. Did you shave the bushing down too much? If it tightens down onto the caster block, that could bind the steering. It needs to be slightly bigger than the thickness of the block.

R/C Anonymous

iTrader: (1)

you shouldnt really have to grind anything except the part of the a-arm you use on the inside of the rim(so it dont rub the rim of course) and to make it look better on the side the rod goes into it and also the same side of the cut up castor block and possible a little on the set screw area so it doesnt hit the spindle

POOKYT

LUC--Get some of the cone shapped washers that go under concave screws to help flatten out the screw head. The ones I have had on my box and use sometimes are actually a metric sizer hole but work good if you open up the inside hole just a touch. It seems like they were made by GS or somebody like that. Hope this gets you what you need.

Brant

rinkrat99

Hi All

HAs anyone had to shim the steering rack bearings? I have a mm or so slop between the 5mm x 8mm rack bearing and the support. I cannot think of any 5mm diameter shims? HPI maybe?

Thanks

POOKYT

Mine are snug but with no slop. I have not heard of this before. You are talking about that there is some up and down play between your steering arms(bearings) and the top of the steering posts?

Brant

rinkrat99

Yes this is correct. I ended up using a 1/8" hinge pin shim and it was too small a diameter to contact the bearing inner 5mm diameter so I used a slightly larger washer/shim and it now keeps the bearings from moving up and down on the rack. I never noticed this before but I had trouble with traction roll on Carpet with foamies on Wed night and decided to rebuild the car and make sure it was sound. So far so good.

I have way too much front steering right now. Have not tried the new arms yet but I am using a 60w/60lb/57piston front and 30w/20lb/60 piston rear. Goint ot 70w front oil next.

It would be nice if you post your latest foam setup in the setup sheet format!

Thanks

POOKYT

I was in the same boat on steering my first night on the rug. After chasing my azz all day I ended up going down on springs and oil and it really made the car better. The next time on the carpet I used the new arms and went even further down in rates untill it felt free but locked in. I think I ended up around 25lbs in the front and 15 or 20's in the rear. I dunno bout this carpet yet but try your 70's and see what it does. If you do use the BK holes for the shocks you need to bring your rates down.

OH and BTW--I was thinking instead of shimming you playout of the posts, I would just gently file down the screw end of the posts untill it made the play dissapear. Hope this helps you man! Hey----Lighter weight too!!!!

Brant

rinkrat99

Brant

I sent you an email. I will send you my previous setups and maybe you can pick them apart. All we run here is Ozite Carpet.

See ya

POOKYT

But the Rockies are so toastie this time a year? No outdoor? LMAO J/K

Let me check the set-ups out and hollar back at ya

Brant

rinkrat99

I just finished checking for binding and reset camber and checked rear toe and with brand new offset 1 degree hubs I am at 1.5d Right and 2.5d Left using 1d Pivot supports.

Oh what fun it is to buy Losi parts that are wrong!

Todd Hodge

Email my work address and when I get home from the Snowbirds. I will glady replace those hubs for you. My email is [email protected].

Also something to keep in mind when installing your rear pivots.

1. Loosen all the screws on all the rear pivots.
2. Hold the car vertically on the table or your lap and gently pull down on the arms. Now tighten the two smaller inner chassis pivots down. This will ensure that the pivots are in the correct spot. Now tighten the rear pivot down. This should help with some of the toe in problems and this is the same way I build my car.

However if the toe in is still off....I will still replace the hubs for you.