Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
09-26-2006, 08:29 AM
#4081
Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you! Was in Vegas for the IIC!
You can remove the inline schottky diode module from the wires just so long as you replace it with a schottky diode directly on the motor. I highly recommend using our Racing Schottky Diode Module being as that it will offer you the best protection and performance.
The part # is: 5636
If you have any more questions feel free to ask!
You can remove the inline schottky diode module from the wires just so long as you replace it with a schottky diode directly on the motor. I highly recommend using our Racing Schottky Diode Module being as that it will offer you the best protection and performance.
The part # is: 5636
If you have any more questions feel free to ask!
Originally Posted by mcgmark
So I just got a Novak GT7 and was told to ask any questions here.
As you know the stock esc comes with this huge black thing diode or whatever attached to the positive and negative blue wire.
If i want to cut it off do I just add one of the diodes that came with the esc in the plastic bag and solder it to the motor ?
or do you need that actual large circuit board etc connected to the motor + the little brown diodes in the baggy?
Any threads that explain this whole thing easily?
I have a JRXS and need my wires to be as tight and tidy as possible.
As you know the stock esc comes with this huge black thing diode or whatever attached to the positive and negative blue wire.
If i want to cut it off do I just add one of the diodes that came with the esc in the plastic bag and solder it to the motor ?
or do you need that actual large circuit board etc connected to the motor + the little brown diodes in the baggy?
Any threads that explain this whole thing easily?
I have a JRXS and need my wires to be as tight and tidy as possible.
09-26-2006, 08:53 AM
#4082
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by Evicerator
Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you! Was in Vegas for the IIC!
You can remove the inline schottky diode module from the wires just so long as you replace it with a schottky diode directly on the motor. I highly recommend using our Racing Schottky Diode Module being as that it will offer you the best protection and performance.
The part # is: 5636
If you have any more questions feel free to ask!
You can remove the inline schottky diode module from the wires just so long as you replace it with a schottky diode directly on the motor. I highly recommend using our Racing Schottky Diode Module being as that it will offer you the best protection and performance.
The part # is: 5636
If you have any more questions feel free to ask!
So to clarify.
I can cut out the entire peice wrapped in black shrink wrap.
if I replace it with one of the shottkey diodes included with the ESC in the little plastic bag and attach to the motor (like I am used to with previous motors/escs)
or with a Racing schottky diode module part# 5636
?
And if I keep the black shrinkwrapped peice I need NO diode on the motor?
Thanks for all of your help!!!
09-26-2006, 10:02 AM
#4083
The racing Schottky Diode module (#5636) is MUCH better than the one included in the plastic accesorry bag with the ESC and I highly recommend using the 5636 over the axial style in the bag.
If you keep the in-line diode on the wires (the black shrink-wrapped bit) you should be ok without the diode on the motor, but placing an additional diode on the motor will never hurt anything and only adds more protection.
If you keep the in-line diode on the wires (the black shrink-wrapped bit) you should be ok without the diode on the motor, but placing an additional diode on the motor will never hurt anything and only adds more protection.
. 'bout time the storefront was tended to.
09-26-2006, 02:01 PM
#4085
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by Evicerator
The racing Schottky Diode module (#5636) is MUCH better than the one included in the plastic accesorry bag with the ESC and I highly recommend using the 5636 over the axial style in the bag.
If you keep the in-line diode on the wires (the black shrink-wrapped bit) you should be ok without the diode on the motor, but placing an additional diode on the motor will never hurt anything and only adds more protection.
If you keep the in-line diode on the wires (the black shrink-wrapped bit) you should be ok without the diode on the motor, but placing an additional diode on the motor will never hurt anything and only adds more protection.
OK so I am going to cut out the one in the black shrink wrap and purchase the Racing Shottkey Diode and use that only.
Thanks for the help!!
09-27-2006, 12:31 PM
#4086
*blink*
09-27-2006, 12:42 PM
#4088
I had some chapstick in my pocket that I used regularly 
09-27-2006, 01:02 PM
#4089
Tech Adept
I'm going to bug you again.
Previously I was running a Novak Millenium charger and enjoyed it.
So I was looking at the Novak Millenium Pro for the new NIMH cells.
I am hearing complaints that the Pro just can't properly charge a NIMH pack?
any info on this?
Previously I was running a Novak Millenium charger and enjoyed it.
So I was looking at the Novak Millenium Pro for the new NIMH cells.
I am hearing complaints that the Pro just can't properly charge a NIMH pack?
any info on this?
09-27-2006, 01:31 PM
#4090
The millenium pro can charge NiMH cells just fine.
The NiMH2 charge mode/algorithym is just very sensistive and can sometimes result in false peaks.
When this occurs we recommend simply using the NiCd mode with a 3 mV/cell cut off and you will be fine.
The NiMH2 charge mode/algorithym is just very sensistive and can sometimes result in false peaks.
When this occurs we recommend simply using the NiCd mode with a 3 mV/cell cut off and you will be fine.
09-27-2006, 01:36 PM
#4091
Tech Adept
Ok Thanks!
Also, Is the 5amp power supply adequate to charge the batteries at 5amps?
In your opinion will I want a larger power supply to charge my larger 4000+MAH cellls at a higher amperage?
Also, Is the 5amp power supply adequate to charge the batteries at 5amps?
In your opinion will I want a larger power supply to charge my larger 4000+MAH cellls at a higher amperage?
09-27-2006, 03:00 PM
#4092
it's always better to have some headroom available to actually run the charger and whatever else you have connected to the power supply... I would recommend at least a 9/10 A supply.
bakelabakadabaka
bakelabakadabaka
09-27-2006, 03:37 PM
#4094
Yeah, I'm ok