daleburr

Could you do it like the Serpent S411, where the outer servo post bolts to a separate carbon bracket. That way the chassis stays narrow and as the carbon bracket is higher it doesn't scrape:

http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...pentS411-9.jpg

Or even better, like the Kyosho TF6 (which is easily the best looking TC) with a custom angled servo post:

http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...yoshoTF6-1.jpg

All the cars I've had/seen with a lug sticking out for the servo post just end up with the lug wearing off. Most guys end up cutting it off and shoe-gooing the servo down instead.

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

The Kyosho does look nice. For battery retention simple CF L-shaped brackets might be the best, but it is tricky to do along with tape without being bulky. The Exotek chassis for XRAYs works decent but is kind of awkward to use with tape in my opinion, and has a lot of extra shims and screws (not a problem with very light batteries).

Buckaroo

iTrader: (3)

The Photon EJ chassis uses cf hooks, and small spacer plates to adjust for overall battery length. Seems to work very well (other than my complete hatred of tape).

olly986

you could use the L shape on bottom to stop it moving out and a "L" shaped swinging screwed arm to keep it inboard and hold it on top.

this would not tweak the chassis and the all setup can be done in 2 pieces basically.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for all your suggestions guys! We will try to incorporate some of the ideas in here for sure!

shoe

iTrader: (3)

[

Finally, recently I found a small production run shop here in Texas that cuts carbon fiber products. We are in the process of designing a dual bell crank steering chassis to be used with the XRay parts and probably a different top deck. We'll test it and see how it goes, if it works well, we will do a small production run of the chassis done on a special order level. Turn around is not long with them so this will be our best bet if it works.[/QUOTE]

How about a rear bumper.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Shoe, Not a bad idea, but do you guys think there is really a need for this? I can make small production runs, so no problem, just wondering...

Buckaroo

iTrader: (3)

Last year I would have given an unqualified "Yes". Now, no. Reason: I'm now much more on pace at my track and rarely are hits from behind an issue anymore.

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

Got the bladders and gear diffs in today, CANNOT wait to hit the track tomorrow. I'll be playing with some various upper deck "arrangements" and if I find any neat tricks that work well for traction I'll share.

Cristian --- When will you have the arm block screws back in stock? I have one that is just slightly bent, and it doesn't seem to cause any bind/tweak issues but I would still like to replace it and have spares

Little John

I also got my bladders today Absolute zero rebound

jag88

iTrader: (1)

For what it's worth I'd like to see a stiffer than stock chassis.
Thanks.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Cody, the screws came back in stock today. Start with around AE 50 Wt in the rear and go up. I like the 50-60 wt in mine and people that I have switched over from the heavier fluids seem to like it more too. It seems the thicker you go, the more rotation the car gets on power, but it starts getting to a point that it becomes unstable on power, perhaps with a gear diff in the front, this changes.

lijohn, glad you like the bladders!

jag, we will definitely look into it. Would you not think a stiffer top deck would achieve similar results?

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

I started with AE 30 because the track is still a tad slick. Thats about the same rotation as a very loose ball diff. We will probably have 3 heats of foam vehicles tomorrow so by the main or after tomorrow it should be ok to go up.

I think I used to run AE 70 on my XRAY, but that car always had a lot of rear grip.

The stock Associated blades are either really wear-resistant or the gear diff outdrives are a bit narrow. All 4 shafts bind a little, so I'll have to do some light sanding. Just a heads up for anyone else ordering diffs. I DO NOT recommend just running the car without making sure the shafts/outdrives are free. Doing so might break one of the internal gears.

It is easier to shave down the blades..... Just enough that it slides into the outdrive without force.

I have eraser w/500k in the front. This was incredibly easy to drive on my XRAY so I expect it to be the same on the TC6.

Maybell

iTrader: (2)

.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

They are up. They should be ready any day now...