littlealex

iTrader: (86)

christian,

in your texas eox 2 round set up it has rsd short camber link and 2.5mm shims and rsd stud on rear outer camber link. what are they equivalent to on ae spec?

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

You are not reading it right.

Inboard on the Chassis, I am using the outer hole on the RSD vertical stud mounts with 2.5mm underneath. While there is no real equivalent with AE, I would use the inside upper shock tower hole.

Outboard in the rear, I am using the closer to the inside hole (shorter link) with 3mm underneath.

oceanhighz

iTrader: (49)

This made me laugh, Gee has only been legal to drink for 2 years (not that I'm much older), just thinking of someone calling him MR. is humorous.... I hear some new race calls coming to our club....

Mike Haynes

iTrader: (2)

While they are rated similar there is a big difference in the spring coil, it's a good idea to have both around as they have different traits.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

RSD054 RSD 311 Piston and RSD055 RSD 315 Piston

The all new RSD 3XX Pistons were designed to provide more pack when used with your AE shocks. They are manufactured with the biggest diameter possible in order to provide a shock that allows less oil blow-by which allows the car to switch directions faster in high grip situations.

The 315 pistons are very similar in feel to the RSD 1,1,1.5mm pistons, however they are a little bit better for bumpy track conditions. Typically you use the same CST rating as the RSD 1,1,1.5mm pistons. The 315 pistons are better for colder weather.

When using the 311 pistons, have a total smaller area than the 315 and 1,1,1.5mm pistons. It is recommended to use 100 cst lighter oil than what your usual settings call for. These pistons have proven to perform better in hot weather conditions when oil tends to thin out and materials of the shocks expand. These pistons provide the most pack and are best for high grip, smooth carpet and asphalt tracks.



RSD039 RSD6 Complete bell Crank V3

This is our all new bell crank for the RSD6. The bellcrank has been re-designed with longer steering arms that allow for quicker and smoother steering. The car typically will be able to run with more ackerman (less shims) which provides more corner speed. Since it is a little bit longer, 2mm of shims with this bellcrank become the equivalent of 4mm before. So please adjust accordingly.



RSD039-1 V3 Steering Bridge



RSD039-2 V3 Steering Arms

The steering arms are longer than the V2 arms. They are also compatible with the Tamiya 416 and 417 Series of Vehicles.

tr1kstanc3

iTrader: (18)

Not sure if this has been covered before but is there a way to get rid of the uneven shock preload on the TC6.1? Does the RSD6 chassis redistribute the weight properly to remove this?

Still waiting patiently for them to come back in stock

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Joe, the chassis came back in stock on friday. They are now shipping.

While I have not experienced much uneven shock pre-load with the TC6, it has shown up when the ball ends at the bottom of the shock shaft are not equal lengths.

With the RSD6, I have received comments from people, like Matt Ward for example who said that whenever he put the chassis on his car, it was the first time his car was totally tweak free.

I can attest that both my cars have about as exact pre-load on each shock side to side as is possible.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Nice to see white pistons. I had a hell of a time trying to see air bubbles with the black shock body and black pistons.

-Mike

tr1kstanc3

iTrader: (18)

Yeah I've seen Matt's car and it looks really good. Just placed my order!

Runerg

iTrader: (1)

Cristian:
Any plans on selling white piston blanks?

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Rune, not at the moment. Which hole pattern were you looking for?

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

I wrote a little article on building DCJ's over the weekend. It was way long over due.

Check it out here.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

CT-

I'll add two things I like a little better concerning DCJ rebuilds.

1. I LOVE using this lube for rebuilds as the needle applicator saves lube, amkes it easy to get it into the joint, and keeps me from making a mess of my fingers and tools.
http://reflexracing.3dcartstores.com...il_p_1197.html

2. I prefer to use a heat gun for the shrink.

Awesome tutorial!

dennisV

Nice article. I already used shrinktube for the DCJ's. Got that from off-road racing where I always use shrinktube for my CVD's.

My question is, what kind of strength of loctite did you use?

Indoor season starts soon. Can't wait, RSD all the way! All my fellow racers mainly drive X-Ray, so i'm gonna kick their ass

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

Use blue for loctite.

Myself and Matt Ward just got some of these knurled cup point set screws(m3x3), which should make things stay together a little easier Matt ran them this past weekend in mod with no issues, ill be putting them in for this weekend