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Old 09-13-2004, 06:48 PM   #16
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¿De verdad que te gusta TRF_Spain?

Estás peor de lo que pensaba............
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Old 09-13-2004, 07:19 PM   #17
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Oscar - can you provide any input on the new armature being developed? and also if there is a new series of magnets being offered soon?
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Old 09-14-2004, 12:56 AM   #18
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One thing that bugs me with the triangular "tube" design thing... we all know that there's a ton of current travelling directly from the brush holder to the brush, ie without going through the shunt... If the contact surface is diminished (triangle instead of cylinder means a contact line rather than a surface) how will it be able to bring enough current to the collector?

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Old 09-14-2004, 08:03 AM   #19
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The hood will not have the same current carrying capacity as the aluminum endbell with cylindrical tubes. The difference is very small. And in a non-racing environment (the motors are not designed for racing), the difference will not be noticable.
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Old 09-14-2004, 08:07 AM   #20
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Hi Rick

Good to see you here too, and thanks for the honest answer, that's indeed what I thought.

May I add that I run a V2 in my Yoke SD, and that I think you guys outputted one of these products that puts the fun back in electric RC racing (which seriously needed it IMHO), the other main one being GP's cells... If only your rotors were wounded a lil' bit more carefully, that'd be perfect

Later
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Old 09-16-2004, 02:09 PM   #21
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I've been noticing on my V2 motors that the Negative brush seems to be sticking in the tube while the positive brush is just fine. Have you guys seen this problem at all?
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Old 09-16-2004, 02:20 PM   #22
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Sometimes you can get debris in the brush tube. This can cause the brush to stick or create a burr in the copper tube. I would first try and use a cue tip and motor spray to clean out the tube and check to make sure your brush doesn't have something on it. If you have an imperfection on the tube you can carefully use a 4mm carbide drill bit to clean it out and correct any burrs that can sometimes appear.

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