1LikesBarracuda from Alex racing
12-08-2002, 09:58 PM
#481
Dear all, I'm now running with all hex balls normally (not inverted) but with 0.75mm shims under front balls of front A-arms and 0.5mm shims under front balls of rear A-arms. When comparing this with no shims, I found that the most significant difference is the improved ability of on-power steering out of the corner. This may due to the increased caster and also rear anti-squat... Just sharing my little settings! 
12-09-2002, 01:25 AM
#482
Originally posted by fai
I read through the setting sheet of the champion of JMRCA 23T: he inverted all eight hex balls upside-down, and then placed 0.5mm shims under the front balls of front A-arms and front balls of rear A-arms!
Diva, does the expert set it in this way??
I read through the setting sheet of the champion of JMRCA 23T: he inverted all eight hex balls upside-down, and then placed 0.5mm shims under the front balls of front A-arms and front balls of rear A-arms!
Diva, does the expert set it in this way??
12-09-2002, 01:28 AM
#483
Originally posted by fai
Dear all, I'm now running with all hex balls normally (not inverted) but with 0.75mm shims under front balls of front A-arms and 0.5mm shims under front balls of rear A-arms. When comparing this with no shims, I found that the most significant difference is the improved ability of on-power steering out of the corner. This may due to the increased caster and also rear anti-squat... Just sharing my little settings!
Dear all, I'm now running with all hex balls normally (not inverted) but with 0.75mm shims under front balls of front A-arms and 0.5mm shims under front balls of rear A-arms. When comparing this with no shims, I found that the most significant difference is the improved ability of on-power steering out of the corner. This may due to the increased caster and also rear anti-squat... Just sharing my little settings!
12-09-2002, 02:59 AM
#484
Originally posted by Diva
Have you tried putting shims under the rear balls of the front arms? Yes, anti-kick-up. Tamiya driver Surikarn Chaidajsuriya did that to his 414. I tried it in my BB (blue barracuda) and it works great in off-power cornering.
Have you tried putting shims under the rear balls of the front arms? Yes, anti-kick-up. Tamiya driver Surikarn Chaidajsuriya did that to his 414. I tried it in my BB (blue barracuda) and it works great in off-power cornering.
Yes, I tried this at the first time I put my Barracuda on track! I put 0.5mm shims...Off-power steering is great...but when you throttle, the car really didn't want to steer!!!
This may not be caused by the adding of 0.5mm shims... Maybe my car wasn't set up properly for its first run!
Diva, you run your BB at PYC?
12-09-2002, 05:52 AM
#485
Good info keep it coming
Now that we are all on the subject of set up's and such what all some of your set up's that you all run
And are any of you guys using sway bars.?? In Japan the norm seems to be the 1.2mm up front and 1.4 in the rear with the normal sus arms... and with the PAL arms it seems to be the 1.6mm front and 1.4~1.8 in the rear... case by case..(track conditions)
Keep the info coming
-Dave
And are any of you guys using sway bars.?? In Japan the norm seems to be the 1.2mm up front and 1.4 in the rear with the normal sus arms... and with the PAL arms it seems to be the 1.6mm front and 1.4~1.8 in the rear... case by case..(track conditions)
Keep the info coming
-Dave
12-09-2002, 07:02 AM
#486
Yes, BB@PYC. Usually Sat afternoon.
Originally posted by fai
Oh, I also noticed Surikarn has done that in order to reduce kick-up of his 414M!
Yes, I tried this at the first time I put my Barracuda on track! I put 0.5mm shims...Off-power steering is great...but when you throttle, the car really didn't want to steer!!!
This may not be caused by the adding of 0.5mm shims... Maybe my car wasn't set up properly for its first run!
Diva, you run your BB at PYC?
Oh, I also noticed Surikarn has done that in order to reduce kick-up of his 414M!
Yes, I tried this at the first time I put my Barracuda on track! I put 0.5mm shims...Off-power steering is great...but when you throttle, the car really didn't want to steer!!!
This may not be caused by the adding of 0.5mm shims... Maybe my car wasn't set up properly for its first run!
Diva, you run your BB at PYC?
12-09-2002, 07:04 AM
#487
At pyc I have no problem of on-power steering. What's your rear toe-in. Mine is only 2.
Originally posted by fai
Oh, I also noticed Surikarn has done that in order to reduce kick-up of his 414M!
Yes, I tried this at the first time I put my Barracuda on track! I put 0.5mm shims...Off-power steering is great...but when you throttle, the car really didn't want to steer!!!
This may not be caused by the adding of 0.5mm shims... Maybe my car wasn't set up properly for its first run!
Diva, you run your BB at PYC?
Oh, I also noticed Surikarn has done that in order to reduce kick-up of his 414M!
Yes, I tried this at the first time I put my Barracuda on track! I put 0.5mm shims...Off-power steering is great...but when you throttle, the car really didn't want to steer!!!
This may not be caused by the adding of 0.5mm shims... Maybe my car wasn't set up properly for its first run!
Diva, you run your BB at PYC?
12-09-2002, 09:16 AM
#488
My set up for'CUDA'with PAL short arms
Front shocks 2nd from outside on top/ lower outboard on the bottom. 30 weight & HPI Pink spring. (59mm shock lenght)
Rear Shocks 3rd position from outside/ lower outboard on the bottom. 30 weight & HPI Pink spring. (62mm shock length)
1 deg toe out front with 1.5 deg camber. (5 deg caster)
2 deg toe in rear with 1 deg camber.
4.5mm front ride height with with 2mm droop
5mm rear ride height with 2mm droop
1.2 mm sway bars front & 1.6 mm rear
Sorex 32 tires with HPI red inserts
front double one way with center drive shaft one way.
and 25 grams of weight added to motor side.
this set up is for a very tight small track with a straight of 130m
-Dave
http://improve.cool.ne.jp/image/CourseD.jpg
Rear Shocks 3rd position from outside/ lower outboard on the bottom. 30 weight & HPI Pink spring. (62mm shock length)
1 deg toe out front with 1.5 deg camber. (5 deg caster)
2 deg toe in rear with 1 deg camber.
4.5mm front ride height with with 2mm droop
5mm rear ride height with 2mm droop
1.2 mm sway bars front & 1.6 mm rear
Sorex 32 tires with HPI red inserts
front double one way with center drive shaft one way.
and 25 grams of weight added to motor side.
this set up is for a very tight small track with a straight of 130m
-Dave
http://improve.cool.ne.jp/image/CourseD.jpg
12-09-2002, 12:32 PM
#489
Barracuda setup
but your camber too big will in turn apex more traction will can not faster
and how many your F & R kick up & anti squat ?
and how many your F & R kick up & anti squat ?
12-09-2002, 03:57 PM
#490
Tech Regular
Qns on Building Shocks
could anyone describe in details the correct way to build the "Yokomo" type shocks???i never had to build a shock which need to be filled from the bottom??does the shock needs a lil bit of rebound after building it??
thanks
thanks
12-09-2002, 10:02 PM
#491
Dear all, oops! I made a mistake yesterday: JMRCA 23T champion setting should be all hex balls upside-down and then all with 0.5mm shims under. This acts as the basic set-up. Then add shims to front balls of front a-arms in order to have a total 1 degree kick-up!
12-09-2002, 10:03 PM
#492
Originally posted by Diva
At pyc I have no problem of on-power steering. What's your rear toe-in. Mine is only 2.
At pyc I have no problem of on-power steering. What's your rear toe-in. Mine is only 2.
12-09-2002, 10:07 PM
#493
Re: My set up for'CUDA'with PAL short arms
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Front shocks 2nd from outside on top/ lower outboard on the bottom. 30 weight & HPI Pink spring. (59mm shock lenght)
Rear Shocks 3rd position from outside/ lower outboard on the bottom. 30 weight & HPI Pink spring. (62mm shock length)
1 deg toe out front with 1.5 deg camber. (5 deg caster)
2 deg toe in rear with 1 deg camber.
4.5mm front ride height with with 2mm droop
5mm rear ride height with 2mm droop
1.2 mm sway bars front & 1.6 mm rear
Sorex 32 tires with HPI red inserts
front double one way with center drive shaft one way.
and 25 grams of weight added to motor side.
this set up is for a very tight small track with a straight of 130m
-Dave
http://improve.cool.ne.jp/image/CourseD.jpg
Front shocks 2nd from outside on top/ lower outboard on the bottom. 30 weight & HPI Pink spring. (59mm shock lenght)
Rear Shocks 3rd position from outside/ lower outboard on the bottom. 30 weight & HPI Pink spring. (62mm shock length)
1 deg toe out front with 1.5 deg camber. (5 deg caster)
2 deg toe in rear with 1 deg camber.
4.5mm front ride height with with 2mm droop
5mm rear ride height with 2mm droop
1.2 mm sway bars front & 1.6 mm rear
Sorex 32 tires with HPI red inserts
front double one way with center drive shaft one way.
and 25 grams of weight added to motor side.
this set up is for a very tight small track with a straight of 130m
-Dave
http://improve.cool.ne.jp/image/CourseD.jpg
12-09-2002, 10:21 PM
#494
Re: Qns on Building Shocks
Originally posted by fReShJiVe
could anyone describe in details the correct way to build the "Yokomo" type shocks???i never had to build a shock which need to be filled from the bottom??does the shock needs a lil bit of rebound after building it??
thanks
could anyone describe in details the correct way to build the "Yokomo" type shocks???i never had to build a shock which need to be filled from the bottom??does the shock needs a lil bit of rebound after building it??
thanks
Pour oil from the top just like ordinary dampers until the oil "pops-up" a little bit. Then fill the cap half-way with oil. Now, you are ready to screw the cap onto the body. Your action should be fast. (Be careful not to strip the cap coz of your "fast" action!
) Now, the outlook is like a finished damper but you found you cannot press the shaft in. So, you must unsrew the cap nearly a turn and press the shaft in, in order to leak some excess oil out! This should be repeated for a few times until you got your desired rebound!For rebound, he set my dampers as this way:
The front damper rebounds faster than the rear one. Approx. you saying the word "one" and the shaft be completely pushed out! For the rear, it should have the timing "one, two"!
Hope this help... Any kindly comments?
12-10-2002, 12:21 AM
#495
Tech Regular
fai-thank you for the detail explaanation...i will try that when i rebuilt the shock
i ran the car today and stripped spur gear as if im changing battery packs....why is that so???should i get the one piece motor mount???does anyone use the motor mount set from "Square"??
verdict:-
stock setting desperately need more off power steering will do some setup changes when i solve the spur problems.....noticable torque steer...will add weight on motor side...
by the way any recommendation on one piece motor mount??one flag seems to be way on the high side of pricing
i ran the car today and stripped spur gear as if im changing battery packs....why is that so???should i get the one piece motor mount???does anyone use the motor mount set from "Square"??
verdict:-
stock setting desperately need more off power steering will do some setup changes when i solve the spur problems.....noticable torque steer...will add weight on motor side...
by the way any recommendation on one piece motor mount??one flag seems to be way on the high side of pricing