Team Associated TC4
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
Off the top of my head, there is a list of major improvements possible in the tc4 , from front to rear:
#1 : Parma bumper + ntc3 reinforcements(overkill)
#2 : front hinge pin blocks#31064 and #31065(no shims)
#3 : run Teflon Bearings on axles #6906
#4 : front LCD drives #losa3344
#5 : dremel servo saver bolt for clearance
#6 : dremel steering turnbuckle for clearance
#7 : run black swaybar up front and back
#8 : use RPM ballcups all over
#9 : use lightweight electronics and lipos
#10 : use trf shocks or AE shocks with yokomo bladders
#11 : take the foam out of the driveshaft input cups
#12 : make sure track width is 190mm(use #6 washers)
#13 : shave axle stubs sticking out
#14 : use IRS aluminum spool & diff outdrives
#15 : dremel battery compartment stubs flat
#16 : dremel chassis under pinion gear
#17 : cut battery foam spacer so it won't rub the driveshaft
#18 : use rear hinge pin blocks#31066 & #31068(no shims)
#19 : make wheelbase close to the shortest possible
#20 : make droop only 1mm to 2mm over rideheight F&R
#21 : use blue front springs and silver tear
#22 : wax/armor all your ride/wheels/body
#23 : Always run 1° to 1.5° rear camber
#24 : make sure you charge up to 8.5volts
#25 : use only AE clamped wheel hexes
That's all I can recall for now....
#1 : Parma bumper + ntc3 reinforcements(overkill)
#2 : front hinge pin blocks#31064 and #31065(no shims)
#3 : run Teflon Bearings on axles #6906
#4 : front LCD drives #losa3344
#5 : dremel servo saver bolt for clearance
#6 : dremel steering turnbuckle for clearance
#7 : run black swaybar up front and back
#8 : use RPM ballcups all over
#9 : use lightweight electronics and lipos
#10 : use trf shocks or AE shocks with yokomo bladders
#11 : take the foam out of the driveshaft input cups
#12 : make sure track width is 190mm(use #6 washers)
#13 : shave axle stubs sticking out
#14 : use IRS aluminum spool & diff outdrives
#15 : dremel battery compartment stubs flat
#16 : dremel chassis under pinion gear
#17 : cut battery foam spacer so it won't rub the driveshaft
#18 : use rear hinge pin blocks#31066 & #31068(no shims)
#19 : make wheelbase close to the shortest possible
#20 : make droop only 1mm to 2mm over rideheight F&R
#21 : use blue front springs and silver tear
#22 : wax/armor all your ride/wheels/body
#23 : Always run 1° to 1.5° rear camber
#24 : make sure you charge up to 8.5volts
#25 : use only AE clamped wheel hexes
That's all I can recall for now....
You could add them with aluminum screw sets to save weight(about 20grams) .
If you want to go further, you can also get a carbon fiber or titanium driveshaft with IRS aluminum input shafts, TiR titanium axles, but by that time you'll want ceramic Bearings all around, Hirosaka gears(lighter than anything else out there), and ceramic diff balls + thrust balls , maybe also a titanium diff/steering spring if you can find one....
I am not going to get into carbon parts, and chassis lightening practices I've heard about, but they're out there, whether it's worth it or not... I'm sure you won't need to go to these extremes to compete, but it gives you an idea of how many improvements can be done to the tc4 up to the present. There maybe more upgrades out there though....
If you want to go further, you can also get a carbon fiber or titanium driveshaft with IRS aluminum input shafts, TiR titanium axles, but by that time you'll want ceramic Bearings all around, Hirosaka gears(lighter than anything else out there), and ceramic diff balls + thrust balls , maybe also a titanium diff/steering spring if you can find one....
I am not going to get into carbon parts, and chassis lightening practices I've heard about, but they're out there, whether it's worth it or not... I'm sure you won't need to go to these extremes to compete, but it gives you an idea of how many improvements can be done to the tc4 up to the present. There maybe more upgrades out there though....
You guys do all of this for VTA racing?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
Off the top of my head, there is a list of major improvements possible in the tc4 , from front to rear:
#1 : Parma bumper + ntc3 reinforcements(overkill)
#2 : front hinge pin blocks#31064 and #31065(no shims)
#3 : run Teflon Bearings on axles #6906
#4 : front LCD drives #losa3344
#5 : dremel servo saver bolt for clearance
#6 : dremel steering turnbuckle for clearance
#7 : run black swaybar up front and back
#8 : use RPM ballcups all over
#9 : use lightweight electronics and lipos
#10 : use trf shocks or AE shocks with yokomo bladders
#11 : take the foam out of the driveshaft input cups
#12 : make sure track width is 190mm(use #6 washers)
#13 : shave axle stubs sticking out
#14 : use IRS aluminum spool & diff outdrives
#15 : dremel battery compartment stubs flat
#16 : dremel chassis under pinion gear
#17 : cut battery foam spacer so it won't rub the driveshaft
#18 : use rear hinge pin blocks#31066 & #31068(no shims)
#19 : make wheelbase close to the shortest possible
#20 : make droop only 1mm to 2mm over rideheight F&R
#21 : use blue front springs and silver tear
#22 : wax/armor all your ride/wheels/body
#23 : Always run 1° to 1.5° rear camber
#24 : make sure you charge up to 8.5volts
#25 : use only AE clamped wheel hexes
That's all I can recall for now....
#1 : Parma bumper + ntc3 reinforcements(overkill)
#2 : front hinge pin blocks#31064 and #31065(no shims)
#3 : run Teflon Bearings on axles #6906
#4 : front LCD drives #losa3344
#5 : dremel servo saver bolt for clearance
#6 : dremel steering turnbuckle for clearance
#7 : run black swaybar up front and back
#8 : use RPM ballcups all over
#9 : use lightweight electronics and lipos
#10 : use trf shocks or AE shocks with yokomo bladders
#11 : take the foam out of the driveshaft input cups
#12 : make sure track width is 190mm(use #6 washers)
#13 : shave axle stubs sticking out
#14 : use IRS aluminum spool & diff outdrives
#15 : dremel battery compartment stubs flat
#16 : dremel chassis under pinion gear
#17 : cut battery foam spacer so it won't rub the driveshaft
#18 : use rear hinge pin blocks#31066 & #31068(no shims)
#19 : make wheelbase close to the shortest possible
#20 : make droop only 1mm to 2mm over rideheight F&R
#21 : use blue front springs and silver tear
#22 : wax/armor all your ride/wheels/body
#23 : Always run 1° to 1.5° rear camber
#24 : make sure you charge up to 8.5volts
#25 : use only AE clamped wheel hexes
That's all I can recall for now....
here are the things Ive done to mine..not as much and only used some of the screws to loose some weight...but thats some things I see on that list that I might try....
FT Motor Cooling Duct/Fan Kit
Part #: 31037
FT Blue Aluminum Shock Bushing, standard
Part #: 1780
FT Battery Strap Thumbscrews
Part #: 1787
FT Graphite Battery Strap, blue with chrome decal
Part #: 31039
TC4 FT Screw Kit, blue aluminum
Part #: 31054
FT Anti-Roll Bar Kit (includes 3 bars)
Part #: 31057
FT Blue Aluminum CVD Bones
Part #: 3888
VCS3 Shock Kit
Part #: 31323
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
pics
#24 : make sure you charge up to 8.5volts
I thought that was against the rules..
I thought that was against the rules..
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
I tried the twin fan before, but it only gave me glitches, so I threw it out. Vcs3 shocks are definitely an upgrade, but I only have the aluminum shock bushing in my Fttc4's ....
By the way, I only race Tc 17.5t/13.5t/mod, no VTA....
I also realized my club & Roar allowed 8.5volt charges, while I was running 8.4volts: there's a noticeable difference....
By the way, I only race Tc 17.5t/13.5t/mod, no VTA....
I also realized my club & Roar allowed 8.5volt charges, while I was running 8.4volts: there's a noticeable difference....
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
How on earth go you get it up to 8.5? unless using nimh settings my charger will only charge to 4.2 per cell
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
I tried the twin fan before, but it only gave me glitches, so I threw it out. Vcs3 shocks are definitely an upgrade, but I only have the aluminum shock bushing in my Fttc4's ....
By the way, I only race Tc 17.5t/13.5t/mod, no VTA....
I also realized my club & Roar allowed 8.5volt charges, while I was running 8.4volts: there's a noticeable difference....
By the way, I only race Tc 17.5t/13.5t/mod, no VTA....
I also realized my club & Roar allowed 8.5volt charges, while I was running 8.4volts: there's a noticeable difference....
what charger are you using?...my LRP Pulsar Touch goes to 8.5
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
lol way cheaper hobbyking charger
Has anyone seen the new Associated Apex yet? Is this basically a dumbed down T4? I need to know since I want to know if it will be "upgradeable" with T4 parts which a lot of hobby stores probably still carry. For $290 with a brushless motor and waterproof ESC, 2.4 Ghz radio, and 6 cell NiMh battery it seems like a great buy for a beginner.
I think the I charger goes up to 8.6volts, but you'll have to discharge to 8.5volts... I had a mrc superbrain989, but now I have a tp1430C that charges up to 8.48volts, close enough to 8.5volts... If your club doesn't check voltage, 8.6volts gives a definite advantage....
As far as the new AE Apex car, it is a rebadged Thunder tiger sparrohawk VX , and is not compatible with the tc4 or any AE car for that matter...
As far as the new AE Apex car, it is a rebadged Thunder tiger sparrohawk VX , and is not compatible with the tc4 or any AE car for that matter...
VERY GOOD NEWS !!!
THE AE TC4 IS INCLUDED IN THE NEWEST RC CREW CHIEF SOFTWARE UPDATE !!!
YOU CAN ADD THAT TO MY LIST AS #26.....
THE AE TC4 IS INCLUDED IN THE NEWEST RC CREW CHIEF SOFTWARE UPDATE !!!
YOU CAN ADD THAT TO MY LIST AS #26.....
Has anyone seen the new Associated Apex yet? Is this basically a dumbed down T4? I need to know since I want to know if it will be "upgradeable" with T4 parts which a lot of hobby stores probably still carry. For $290 with a brushless motor and waterproof ESC, 2.4 Ghz radio, and 6 cell NiMh battery it seems like a great buy for a beginner.